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Old 05-14-2016, 10:18 PM   #11
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Bobby,
4 screws, 2 on each end. Then 1 rubber pad underneath held on also by one screw.
Yes the bottom plate slides in between the end tabs. Need to be careful when reinstalling.
The new door stop is a grab handle cut down with 1" rubber cane end. All 3 screws went into aluminum frame underneath, which pleased me. The weather strip is to allow any water to drain from inside the door.
OK, thanks.

I will stop worrying about the weather strip.

Once again, nice job.
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Old 05-15-2016, 08:20 PM   #12
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We have the very same problem with our brand new Sunseeker, the shock fell-off and the ball on the door frame is very loose and the one on the door not much better! We did not take it it out for camping yet, it is back to the dealer (already 5 weeks) to fix few problems. I will keep in mind your fix for that problem, great job 17Racer! Thank you for sharing.
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Old 07-25-2016, 05:21 PM   #13
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Racer, if you are still around, how has this held up? Ours is a little loose and looks like it is one good gust of wind away from becoming disassembled.
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Old 07-25-2016, 07:08 PM   #14
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Racer, if you are still around, how has this held up? Ours is a little loose and looks like it is one good gust of wind away from becoming disassembled.
Yes, I am still around. This is a great place to keep up to date on RV information.

The fix that was shown in the pictures is doing fine. I firmly feel that the 10lb. gas strut change from the 20lb. is a better choice.

But there is no way the strength of construction of door or door sill will hold the two 10mm balls under the load they are subjected to. The door stop which stops the door before the end of travel of the strut takes nearly all the strain off the ball mounts. That trick will make it last now. The original design is simply very weak at best.
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:19 PM   #15
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Yes, I am still around. This is a great place to keep up to date on RV information.

The fix that was shown in the pictures is doing fine. I firmly feel that the 10lb. gas strut change from the 20lb. is a better choice.

But there is no way the strength of construction of door or door sill will hold the two 10mm balls under the load they are subjected to. The door stop which stops the door before the end of travel of the strut takes nearly all the strain off the ball mounts. That trick will make it last now. The original design is simply very weak at best.
Glad to hear your mod is working out besides just looking good.

Since my last post in this thread I have a Dynamax REV. At the PDI I noticed that the door strut was missing. It was pointed out to me that Dynamax uses a different system that is in the hinges. I don't recall what is called but so far it works well. The door stays wherever I leave it throughout its range of movement.
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Old 07-26-2016, 01:03 AM   #16
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I'll look into doing a similar mod to ours one of these days... It was sloppy from the get-go, and we've taken care to not let it slam open. I like the idea of reducing the pressure - the gas strut doesn't need to be very strong.
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Old 07-26-2016, 02:25 PM   #17
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Delco Bobby,

Congratulations on your new 2017 Dynamax REV 24RB.
I am sure you are very happy with your new unit. And glad to hear that it has a much better door arrangement. It does seem weird that it takes so much time to rid the camper of the pest or silly items that need to be taken care of. Good luck with that new Dynamax.
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Old 07-26-2016, 11:57 PM   #18
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Delco Bobby,

Congratulations on your new 2017 Dynamax REV 24RB.
I am sure you are very happy with your new unit. And glad to hear that it has a much better door arrangement. It does seem weird that it takes so much time to rid the camper of the pest or silly items that need to be taken care of. Good luck with that new Dynamax.
17Racer,

Thanks for the good wishes. The REV offers many upgrades over the Sunseeker. A lot of stuff that I wanted to add but comes standard with the REV. Not much difference in price. the size is about the same but a foot lower which is good in my area.

The Sunseekers/ Forresters have a beefier chassis and more horse power but I am adapting.

I didn't have a sofa in my 2250 and the bathroom was very cramped. Now I have a sofa and a very comfortable bathroom that is really nice looking. The rest of it is well appointed also.

Be Well
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Old 07-27-2016, 02:55 PM   #19
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Ours has been loose since day one. sometimes I think we are better off having it a bit loose seeing as the way most things are constructed now a days. if it were tight it would probably snap off, then we would be removing the door frame.

On an added note. I did have the end connector come apart from the hydraulic cylinder. seems as though the cylinder rotates as as it opens and closes and the end piece by the frame will come loose. I happened to be right by the door when mine came loose but if it happens during a heavy wind you could be in for a world of hurt so check to see that it is tight. It is easy to pop the end connector off the frame so you can tighten the end connector..
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Old 08-02-2016, 06:11 PM   #20
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This has been on my things to do list. Last winter in AZ I noticed that the door would go back and forth at the end of the opening cycle, and would contact the extended awning arm. It was flexing of the aluminum where the stud ball is fastened. It won't last like that. The failure photo posted above is what I expect to happen.

I was not sure how to proceed on a repair without disassembling. I was hoping to find a plate with a ball that will fit and can be screwed into place from the outside. But I now see that it needs the backer plate as shown by 17racer.
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