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Old 11-12-2013, 08:11 PM   #11
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Since the walls are all bonded together and each hole is framed in aluminum it would seem likely that the aluminum structure at that corner has cracked also. Thus any repair to the fiberglass skin will likely crack again like mentioned by another poster. The location being near the center of the coach would be a stressed area.

Another example where a poster has a crack near the rear bumper that has always been there and has not changed would not be a high stress area. It is likely caused by stress in the fiberglass during the bonding process and likely not a structural issue.

I recommend a detailed inspection to look for cracks in other sides of the corner. You should be able to see this by placing the slide in a mid position. If no other cracks are found them maybe you just have a fiberglass stress crack. Repair the crack as mentioned above then see if it comes back. If it does you likely should install a reinforcement plate at the corner. I guess you could also pull the slide and cut your way into the aluminum structure, do a weld repair, and patchup the fiberglass.

My opinion and thoughts on this issue for what they are worth.
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Old 11-12-2013, 09:55 PM   #12
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This concerns me since I have the same floor plan in the Forester.

Now thinking out loud - I wonder if the sidewalls of the class C are similar to the Georgetown class A where the side walls are secured to the framing in the floor. Our class C has the same horizontal molding trim down the side. If a fastener or two in the side wall near the slide out opening broke then the support and stress is carried along the wall. The thinnest area - the slide opening will be the weakest. This might could be verified by pushing on the outside bottom of the wall. If your unit doesn't have full body paint, the vinyl in the molding track can be pulled out just to check the fasteners.
This might be far fetched but I never thought I would read about this on a class A: Georgetown side wall bolts sheared off- and a fix!

Another cause could be too much force exerted by the slide out (extending or retracting). We all operate our slides until the motor strains or the clutch kicks in to get a good seal on the gaskets but the slide motors on these units have tremendous power. A lot of pressure on the wall opening of the coach side wall.

Bobby
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Old 12-11-2013, 04:50 PM   #13
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We just finished up our second long trip (15,000 miles since Mar 13) and found the infamous crack in the corner by the front slide. The rig (3170) is down at the service department and a battle is raging with FR regarding the fix. The service department feels that the FR solution is substandard. The service department wants to remove the slide and weld in plates on the inside and outside. FR wants them to just slap a patch on the outside. Its nice to see the service department fighting for us and am a little disappointed that FR wants to cheap out. For the record, there are four other 3170's lined up for the same problem at this service center and they aren't even a FR dealer. We also love this rig and have spent a lot of time in it. No big issues except this one. Running like a champ!
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Old 12-12-2013, 11:51 AM   #14
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Lordy. Better check my slide!
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:31 PM   #15
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"The service department wants to remove the slide and weld in plates on the inside and outside."

Just like I said earlier. It does seem odd that this issue seems to be only showing up now with later 3170s which have been made for years.
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Old 12-22-2013, 08:24 AM   #16
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I keep an eye on my 3050S due to the length of the slide.......I worry about the stress to chassis.
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Old 12-22-2013, 10:52 AM   #17
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These things are designed to flex a bit. Really it would be best if we put in a relief cut, straight down in the the glass surface. That is the best fix. A relief cut, covered with trim just down to the belt rail.
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Old 12-22-2013, 12:37 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bclemens View Post
These things are designed to flex a bit. Really it would be best if we put in a relief cut, straight down in the the glass surface. That is the best fix. A relief cut, covered with trim just down to the belt rail.
Great idea!
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Old 12-22-2013, 12:47 PM   #19
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We have 2012 3170DS as well (bought end of 2011), when bought there was a crack in same exact spot. RV dealer repaired it on behalf of Forest River. Flash forward to current day and its back in shop with SAME crack. We are past 1 year warranty and onto our 3 year Cornerstone warranty which I have been told will NOT cover this. To say I'm upset would be putting it mildly. RV dealer feels Forest River should cover costs and also told me that apparently this cracking is more common with these units than is publicly known. Does anyone else know of this issue happening? Since this has now happened twice the cosmetic repair is not gonna cut it, something is causing this structurally and I'll insist they fix that no matter how intangible it may be.
Ram, Why wouldn't Cornerstone cover that? I also have cornerstone, they told me they cover bumper to bumper. I got it from my dealer, and you betcha I would make my dealer repair it. They are one's who sold it to me. And to be honest my dealer is very easy to work with. But I sure would like to know what Cornerstone told you..Thanks
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Old 01-02-2014, 08:13 PM   #20
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Crack work

Here are some pictures of the work being done to fix my crack.
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