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Old 05-18-2014, 08:37 PM   #1
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De winterizing/hot water heater for 3170

I know there's a board specific to winterizing, de winterizing but I need help specific to the 3170. Because the bypass lines are in the cabinet behind the kitchen drawers, I can barely make out which way the valves are turned. I thought I had them turned the correct way, but no water is coming out of the hot water side of the faucets. Help?
Also, if you accidentally had the valve going the wrong way because you weren't paying attention and then turned the water pump on and drained the pink stuff through the faucets but there's still some pink in the water, what did you do wrong? (I'm asking for a friend, of course). And what if said friend said she had to put the pink stuff in the fresh water tank when winterizing because the unit didn't come with another way to add the pink stuff and that's what the manual said to do? (I did, I mean, she did drain the fresh water tank when winterizing then ran bleach water through and added more fresh water. When we run the faucets or the toilet, there water is slightly pink.). Sigh.
Thanks!
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Old 05-18-2014, 09:51 PM   #2
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Drain and refill the fresh water tank a couple of times. That should take care of that. Remove the water filter housing and drain if there's pink stuff in it. Hook up a supply to the city water connection and flush the piping by opening all the drains until clear. Then open the faucets, toilet, shower, outside shower etc and run till clear. If a lot of pink stuff got into the hot water heater it might take a while. If so you could pull the anode/drain plug on the heater to speed up the process.
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Old 05-18-2014, 09:57 PM   #3
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De winterizing/hot water heater for 3170

First the water heater issue: There are two pipes that go into the water heater--one at the top and one at the bottom. Those two valves should be open which means the valve should be parallel to the pipe. There is a pipe between the two attached to the heater. In the center of it is another valve. It should be turn perpendicular to the pipe (closed).

Regarding the pink in the water. Putting antifreeze in the fresh water tank really creates a situation. It is hard to get it all out. Fill and then drain the fresh water tank. Fill it again (at least partially) and drain again. If antifreeze got into your water heater, you will want to pull the drain plug on the outside of it and flush it out also. Remember, the pink antifreeze is non-toxic. While it won't be something you want to drink, it won't hurt if some is in the water tank for awhile and shows up in the toilet or shower.

ATVer typed faster than me. Didn't mean to repeat. <sigh>
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Old 05-18-2014, 10:07 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by RvBill3 View Post
First the water heater issue: There are two pipes that go into the water heater--one at the top and one at the bottom. Those two valves should be open which means the valve should be parallel to the pipe. There is a pipe between the two attached to the heater. In the center of it is another valve. It should be turn perpendicular to the pipe (closed).

Regarding the pink in the water. Putting antifreeze in the fresh water tank really creates a situation. It is hard to get it all out. Fill and then drain the fresh water tank. Fill it again (at least partially) and drain again. If antifreeze got into your water heater, you will want to pull the drain plug on the outside of it and flush it out also. Remember, the pink antifreeze is non-toxic. While it won't be something you want to drink, it won't hurt if some is in the water tank for awhile and shows up in the toilet or shower.

ATVer typed faster than me. Didn't mean to repeat. <sigh>

Thanks for the tips. We don't drink the water anyway, but we do wash our hands so I want to get rid of as much of the pink as I can (knowing that, yes, it is nontoxic).

We had no choice but to put the pink stuff in the fresh water tank. I will look into installing a bypass if that's what it's called.

Will continue to fill and drain. As for the water filter casing, I was not able to remove it. Will ask DH to try. (I like to do this stuff and he doesn't, so I typically am the one fiddling with the motor home. This is the first time I've winterized and de-winterized (we've owned a HTT and a TT) because I've hired it out before.

Oh, and quick question: when you say to pull the plug on the water heater, do you mean the anode or is there something else I'm not seeing there?

Thanks so much!
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Old 05-18-2014, 10:11 PM   #5
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Did you turn all three valves? On my 3170 you have a valve for the cold water in and a valve for the hot water out. The valve handle are turned so they are inline with the water pipe. The third valve is the bypass valve that hooks the hot and cold lines together so you can run antifreeze through the entire system with out it going to the water heater. It will need to be closed to get hot water. Valve handle across the water pipe. My guess would be you have not turned one of the valves going in or out of the heater. You really can't mess it up. If you leave the bypass valves open you will get a quick shot of hot water at your sink and it will turn cold again. That is because you are letting the hot water mix with the cold water. If you don't turn one of the valves to the heater you will not have water at the faucet on the hot water side.
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Old 05-18-2014, 10:15 PM   #6
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The drain plug is the anode rod. Remote it and flush out the tank.
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Old 05-18-2014, 10:16 PM   #7
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Did you turn all three valves? On my 3170 you have a valve for the cold water in and a valve for the hot water out. The valve handle are turned so they are inline with the water pipe. The third valve is the bypass valve that hooks the hot and cold lines together so you can run antifreeze through the entire system with out it going to the water heater. It will need to be closed to get hot water. Valve handle across the water pipe. My guess would be you have not turned one of the valves going in or out of the heater. You really can't mess it up. If you leave the bypass valves open you will get a quick shot of hot water at your sink and it will turn cold again. That is because you are letting the hot water mix with the cold water. If you don't turn one of the valves to the heater you will not have water at the faucet on the hot water side.

Um. We did it right when we winterized (all of the valves were correct). It was when de winterizing that I screwed up. Any chance you can tell me what way the top, middle and bottom valves should face, please? That's what I'm trying to get at here. That should fix the hot water problem. I think.
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Old 05-18-2014, 10:19 PM   #8
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Top and bottom parallel (in line) with the pipe. Center perpendicular (not in line) with the pipe.
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Old 05-18-2014, 10:20 PM   #9
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De winterizing/hot water heater for 3170

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The drain plug is the anode rod. Remote it and flush out the tank.

Ok. Thanks. I took it out when I winterized. Got a new rod, but could only hand tighten (I used the tape, too) because I don't have the right tool. Ordering it from Amazon.
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Old 05-18-2014, 10:20 PM   #10
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Top and bottom parallel (in line) with the pipe. Center perpendicular (not in line) with the pipe.

Sweet. Thanks ever so much.
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