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Old 10-16-2013, 04:49 PM   #1
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Dehumidifying

So I run a decent size dehumidifier in the evenings and turn it off in the morning when I get up. Is there such a thing as TO much dehumidifying?

Every morning when I get up and turn it off I empty the bucket and pour out about a 1/2 gallon of water

Here is a photo of the unit below
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Old 10-16-2013, 04:51 PM   #2
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Old 10-20-2013, 10:31 AM   #3
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I don't think so. I'm running a 3 amp EVA-DRY dehumidifier (LOVE IT!) and I also have Damp-Rid's hanging in the driving cockpit and in all my closets, and I have a DRI-Z-AIR in the bathroon. Now is THAT too much dehumidifying?
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Old 10-20-2013, 10:34 AM   #4
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I don't think so. I'm running a 3 amp EVA-DRY dehumidifier (LOVE IT!) and I also have Damp-Rid's hanging in the driving cockpit and in all my closets, and I have a DRI-Z-AIR in the bathroon. Now is THAT too much dehumidifying?

I looked at the ones you can hang up, how often do you replace them?
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Old 10-20-2013, 10:56 AM   #5
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I think it depends on the time of year and where you live. Atlanta? Leave it on. 1/2 gal a day indicates a lot of humidity. Do you have a humidistat on the unit? Just set it at a reasonable humidity level.
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Old 10-20-2013, 09:10 PM   #6
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I have a digital read out that says for the most part I am at 40-50% humidity
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Old 10-20-2013, 09:57 PM   #7
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Is there such a thing as TO much dehumidifying?
In a short answer - yes you can do too much dehumidifying - when occupied. Too dry will dry YOU out.

Unoccupied, it is not necessary to dehumidify a camper.
If you are wondering where all the moisture is coming from when unoccupied, it is likely from the surroundings. Like your air conditioner, even if you don't open any doors the unit has to cycle on to remove the heat through absorption. Campers, like homes aren't drum tight. Moisture is migrating from outside.

After a trip in the coach it would be ok to run the humidifier for a couple days to dry it from the occupants but you will not likely ever to see a day of never emptying the bucket until the outdoor average daily humidity levels are around 35% or lower.

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Old 10-20-2013, 10:41 PM   #8
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In Washington State, in fall we run our dehumidifier while we're camping. I turn it off and on throughout the day, but let it run on low during the night. It keeps the windows clear and the temperature more comfortable. I have one like the picture above. Dining the winter, we semi-winterize, because we like to get out and about after a long week at work. I let it run down to about 40% humidity.
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Old 10-20-2013, 11:15 PM   #9
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If you can keep the humidity below about 45% or so, it will impend the growth of mold... That is probably a worthwhile endevour. Out here in Denver, we don't see it that high very often, more like 15% most times except when early in the morning during the winter or when it's raining.

Of course we did have a little stint here a month or so ago that was not much fun, but hopefully not again for 500 years or so.
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Old 10-21-2013, 04:15 AM   #10
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So I run a decent size dehumidifier in the evenings and turn it off in the morning when I get up. Is there such a thing as TO much dehumidifying?

Every morning when I get up and turn it off I empty the bucket and pour out about a 1/2 gallon of water

Here is a photo of the unit below
To answer your question yes you can. You can dry out your cabinets and furniture. Your relative humidity should run around 45 to 50%. On the other hand it depends on the time of year. During the summer your A/C is really just dehumidifier. During the winter if you run your propane furnace you add to the humidity in the trailer. If you allow humidity to build in the winter by keeping the unit closed up you stand to grow mold and mildew, the same as the hot summer months. It is safer to leave some roof vents open so you can exchange the air. Propane is not a dry heat like a firer place. I would use one during the winter in storage, but that would be about it. When I was in the HVAC business we use to add humidifiers to people systems for use in the winter only so the heat would not dry things out.(natural gas) During the summer months the A/C took care of dropping the humidity on it's own.( condensation) But there is a moisture content with propane and with the btu's each person puts out on their own. When we calculate the size of A/C's you add that in as a factor. Plus fresh air intake.
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:12 PM   #11
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I looked at the ones you can hang up, how often do you replace them?
The ones you hang up are the Damp Rids. Every 30 days, or I have stretched it to 60 days.....
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:19 PM   #12
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Dang. You are all recommending 45-50%? I'm on the Oregon Coast right now trying to keep it down to 60%! I have two Eva Dry units, one is 3 amps, and one is 6 amps. I'm running the 3 amp one, but not the 6 amp one.... yet...... Trying to keep my amps down as I'm also running space heaters. (Plus all the Damp Rids I have hanging in the closets.....)

In the 3170 with the computer desk, I have found that leaving the window open near the computer desk really cuts down on getting humidity on the interior windows. I don't lose that much heat, the front section and the bedroom stay pretty toasty. Don't know if you want to do that with the kids bunk option.
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:47 PM   #13
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Dang. You are all recommending 45-50%? I'm on the Oregon Coast right now trying to keep it down to 60%!
No, 60% is a bit on the middle ground. Basically you want to control it when occupied. If your coach is vented that will help. Think of it like the attic or the enclosed garage in a home. Those spaces aren't conditioned or dehumidified but there isn't a mold problem either. Those areas are vented which keeps the moisture low.

I live in Louisiana - the south tropics so high humidity is part of life. We see mold problems but it is usually caused by something else that is wrong (roof leaks, drain leaks, poor vapor barriers and/or ventilation).

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Old 10-24-2013, 09:24 AM   #14
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I also try to leave the driving compartment windows cracked open a little, just a TEENSY bit. It helps..... some.... but not that much.
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:41 AM   #15
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Good discussion. So this is my concern. I live in Georgia where humidity levels can be at 100% outside at times ...lol, so my thoughts are to keep levels in the RV at a level that we are maintaining proper humidity levels to maximize the life of the interior of the unit. One member made a good point about drying out the interior which will cause cracks in plastics, wood and leather materials and on the other hand we want to prevent mold growth and extend the life of the walls and other surfaces. I guess its a fine line to walk. I keep a digital read out on the wall that lets me know my levels at all times.

Right now its getting colder and I have the heat pump on at 65 degrees to keep a comfortable temp in the RV because we use it daily. I assume the heat pump because it's electric will dry out everything so need need for the dehumidifier, correct?
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:44 AM   #16
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...Right now its getting colder and I have the heat pump on at 65 degrees to keep a comfortable temp in the RV because we use it daily. I assume the heat pump because it's electric will dry out everything so need need for the dehumidifier, correct?
Not a dehumidifier, a humidifier to keep it around 45%-55%.
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:53 AM   #17
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So "yes" the heat pump will dry out everything?
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:55 AM   #18
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So "yes" the heat pump will dry out everything?
Definitely.
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Old 10-24-2013, 10:44 AM   #19
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The heatpump is a reverse cycle air conditioner; absorbing the heat from outside and bringing it inside (which is why heatpumps don't work so well when it is cool outside - less heat available to absorb).

I live in an area with humidity averages 80% - 90%. But it doesn't stay at that level all day (unless it is raining).

There is a lot of information on the internet about humidity ranges for homes and just as much information on mold control. Mold has been around long before RV's and air conditioning. The point is is mold likes a particular environment and that environment needs to be consistent to support mold growth. Most homes and/or RV's do not have the condition consistently to support mold growth.

Monitoring humidity is a good practice and use a good hygrometer but my advice still stands that the best practice is to vent - same as you do for the bath area after showers. Why do most baths (RV and homes) have vents, to get the moisture out of the area where it can be the highest.

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Old 10-25-2013, 11:05 PM   #20
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Chrisbrock, I used to live in Smyrna (but didn't have an RV at the time....). I don't think you will have a problem with getting things too dry...... But what do I know, I haven't lived in Smyrna since 1998......
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