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Old 02-23-2016, 07:56 PM   #11
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I have the same Kill-a-Watt meter and it works well. The readings I get are very close to nameplate wattage for appliances I've tested, and the volt readings agree with my Fluke multimeter. Your amperage and wattage readings should be good.

You may want to put a multimeter directly on the coach batteries. Other loads on the same ciucuit such as lights will affect the reading you get with a plug-in voltmeter.
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Old 02-23-2016, 07:59 PM   #12
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Don't know the device - seems a reasonable approach, but I don't understand the wattage reading and current reading discrepancy. Maybe it is reading peak current vs rms current? I just don't know. Power (watts) is volts times amps. 120 volts and .59 (rms) amps is about 70 watts. Assuming it is correctly reporting wattage, 43 watts at twelve volts would be about 3.6 amps, maybe 4 to 4.5 amps accounting for the inverter inefficiency. 20 to 25 hours in the previous discussion.
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Old 02-23-2016, 08:12 PM   #13
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I've been doing a bunch of reading online about how difficult it is to determine actual drain and remaining battery charge with the kind of cheap measuring device I am using (much less the even cheaper push-button 1/3-2/3-Full monitor that comes on the wall). I'm thinking of ordering a Trimetric 2030RV which will probably be very useful for what I want to do and do a much better job of helping me figure this out.
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Old 02-23-2016, 08:36 PM   #14
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Get a Trimetric 2030RV. Put mine in a few weeks ago. Best investment you can make to moniter your batteries. Guess work removed!
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Old 02-23-2016, 08:52 PM   #15
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Yep that's what I just ordered. Seems simple enough to install.
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Old 02-23-2016, 09:00 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlR View Post
Get a Trimetric 2030RV. Put mine in a few weeks ago. Best investment you can make to moniter your batteries. Guess work removed!
x2x2x2x2

Nothing like it. No guesswork, you always know exactly where you stand.
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Old 02-24-2016, 07:09 AM   #17
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OK so to connect the Trimetric when I receive, as far as I understand I disconnect the one negative connection in the picture (NOT the interconnect) and connect it to the shunt...and then connect the other side of the shunt back to that negative battery terminal...so that the only path to the negative terminal is through the shunt.

But do I need to change anything on the positive side since (aside from the interconnect) I have leads coming off of both positive terminals?


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9v...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9v...ew?usp=sharing
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Old 02-24-2016, 10:14 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffreymhardy View Post
OK so to connect the Trimetric when I receive, as far as I understand I disconnect the one negative connection in the picture (NOT the interconnect) and connect it to the shunt...and then connect the other side of the shunt back to that negative battery terminal...so that the only path to the negative terminal is through the shunt.

But do I need to change anything on the positive side since (aside from the interconnect) I have leads coming off of both positive terminals?


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9v...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9v...ew?usp=sharing
That is correct. I can't see how much headroom you have but someone on a forum made a shunt connector out of 3/4" copper pipe and it hooks directly to the negative post stud and then you just move the negative cable to the shunt output. No additional cables required.

You will need the 3 wires to the shunt (also shown) as well as a power wire for the Trimetric to any positive battery post. If you want to monitor your chassis battery, you run another small wire to it's positive post as well. The Trimetric will tell you that battery's voltage but will not monitor SOC, current in and out of that battery.
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Old 02-24-2016, 10:19 AM   #19
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Thanks for that! That's a great idea about the shunt attaching directly to the terminal, and thanks for the photo...that will help
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Old 02-24-2016, 10:25 AM   #20
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In addition, think about where you want to put the unit. My Monitor panel is in the bedroom and my first idea was to put it there. Turns out it was much easier to put it right by the entrance, above where the disconnect switch is located. In retrospect, that is a much better place since I can see it from the cockpit and it does indicate things that you want to see in real time, like, engine is running...is the alternator charging the house and how far to I have to go to get back to 100%?

Trust me, you will become a SOC miser, always wanting to see that 100% number again!!!!
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