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Old 02-24-2016, 10:31 AM   #21
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Yeah I'm definitely going to put it right at the entry steps next to the leveling switches, etc. It's a shorter run and easy access to the other side of that inside the cabinet there.

My next task is to figure out what batteries to use to replace the generic ones which came with my rig
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Old 02-24-2016, 01:35 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein View Post
That is correct. I can't see how much headroom you have but someone on a forum made a shunt connector out of 3/4" copper pipe and it hooks directly to the negative post stud and then you just move the negative cable to the shunt output. No additional cables required.

You will need the 3 wires to the shunt (also shown) as well as a power wire for the Trimetric to any positive battery post. If you want to monitor your chassis battery, you run another small wire to it's positive post as well. The Trimetric will tell you that battery's voltage but will not monitor SOC, current in and out of that battery.
That's an incorrect shunt installation, you can only have the shunt installed as shown with out the additional wire at the negative post in the photo.

To jeffreymhardy
Also just an FYI, watts is power and it does not matter if it's AC or DC it is the same, however the voltage and amperage is different in each. In DC voltage X amperage = watts.
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Old 02-24-2016, 02:38 PM   #23
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Don't forget to add "ghost" draws. Even if your refrigerator is running on propane, the control board uses some 12VDC power. I expect there will be other "parasitic" draws too (water heater igniter, furnace, etc).
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Old 02-24-2016, 03:16 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by prairiecamper View Post
That's an incorrect shunt installation, you can only have the shunt installed as shown with out the additional wire at the negative post in the photo.

To jeffreymhardy
Also just an FYI, watts is power and it does not matter if it's AC or DC it is the same, however the voltage and amperage is different in each. In DC voltage X amperage = watts.
Not really. The second wire on the negative terminal goes to the second parallel 12V battery! All current to the chassis ground goes through the shunt. The installation, although not mine...is completely correct.
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Old 02-24-2016, 03:20 PM   #25
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I haven't done it with mine, but the MOST accurate way to measure current draw is with an ammeter connected to the wire that comes directly from the battery before it gets a load on it.
Then, if you want, feed this info to a display in your coach and you can see, in realtime, how much current is being drawn at any time. If you knew, for example, you have 100 amp hour capacity, and in the exmaple above, you draw 7 amps, then you would have about 14 hours of time to use your batteries before needing to recharge.
Measuring each device is not accurate, as has been mentioned, there may be other current draws elsewhere in the coach, so measuring at the battery is the most accurate.
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Old 02-24-2016, 03:27 PM   #26
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[QUOTE=jeffreymhardy;1110202]I know this is not a Sunseeker or even Forest River-specific question, but I always get good feedback here so I thought I would pose it. I'm trying to evaluate exactly what I'm going to be able to do for how long without AC power. Now, I'm only trying to see if I could manage a 2-3 night stay somewhere without power, so I did a test of my fully charged batteries that came with my Sunseeker.
QUOTE]

I use to worry about wattage power, etc on my trailer RV .. I then switch to 2 golf batteries (from Costco) wired in series.. Bought a 100 watt solar panel and controller.. and never looked back.. works great!! I left the panel portable to I could move it around on the ground periodically to follow the sun.. (even works on cloudy days).. A set up like this is all you need.. (you can use your existing batteries and it will work fine).
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ronics&sr=1-19
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Old 02-24-2016, 03:54 PM   #27
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Not really. The second wire on the negative terminal goes to the second parallel 12V battery! All current to the chassis ground goes through the shunt. The installation, although not mine...is completely correct.
OK maybe I missed something, however if two 12 volt batteries are wired in parallel for house batteries and you are using a shunt with a battery monitor, to monitor both batteries they both need to hooked up to one side of the shunt and the other side of the shunt to chassis ground.
This is not the case with the attached photo, the cable attached to the battery negative ground, should be hooked up to the shunt at the point where the other cable is attached. Unless the second battery is not being monitored!!
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Old 02-24-2016, 05:30 PM   #28
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Batteries

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Originally Posted by jeffreymhardy View Post
I know this is not a Sunseeker or even Forest River-specific question, but I always get good feedback here so I thought I would pose it. I'm trying to evaluate exactly what I'm going to be able to do for how long without AC power. Now, I'm only trying to see if I could manage a 2-3 night stay somewhere without power, so I did a test of my fully charged batteries that came with my Sunseeker.

What I had running was a TV, a roku and a hotspot, all totaling 43 watts and .59 amps. I bought a 300 watt inverter which is plugged into one of my 12v outlets with an extension cord feeding those three very small power users.No lights or anything else on other than smoke detector, etc.

After one hour, my battery charge was down to 12.3 v from 12.9 v which, from what I read, is about as low as you should ever let your batteries get.

Are these just the worst batteries ever, or am I missing something here? Yes, I could run my genny and top it off, but that's not something I want to have to do hourly.

Any comments would be appreciated.
I bought Gel Batteries after much trouble with the stock batteries.
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Old 02-24-2016, 05:32 PM   #29
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I had a lot of trouble with my stock batteries and finally purchased Gel Batteries and have had no trouble with those. My RV is a 2010 Sunseeker and the Gel batteries are now a couple of years old.
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Old 02-24-2016, 11:42 PM   #30
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[QUOTE=clintbonnie73;1111146]
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffreymhardy View Post
I know this is not a Sunseeker or even Forest River-specific question, but I always get good feedback here so I thought I would pose it. I'm trying to evaluate exactly wy to follow the sun.. (even works on cloudy days).. A set up like this is all you need.. (you can use your existing batteries and it will work fine).
Robot Check
Exactly what I have. Windy Nation same controller but I bought 2 100 watt panels and practical never have to think about batteries
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