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Old 12-21-2018, 06:31 PM   #1
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explaining battery lights anyone?

Confused here.... Day two in the coach on shore power and only show two red dots on the battery panel are on. When we arrived all four dots were shining, but we had just been running the engine for a few hours. The only things on are the lp detector, the frig on ac (assuming dc is also being consumed), the thermostat display, and a 12 volt jenson TV.

Using AC heat and lights..

We were down to two dots late last night but it recovered to three in the am, so I guess the converter is working.

Last week I pulled the two batteries and had them tested, brought them home watered them and charged them.

Time to convert the converter to a new model, or ignore the red lights?

Thoughts?
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Old 12-21-2018, 06:35 PM   #2
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My converter went the other way and over charged them. I put a 4 stage converter in mine and up grades to AGM. Been going good for the last 3/4 years, don't remember which. Kinda for get them.
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Old 12-21-2018, 07:03 PM   #3
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more info

For yucks I turned the battery switch to off and all 12v power was lost except the LP sensor. If I understand correctly the 12 voly system should still be powered by the converter as shore is hooked up.

So maybe my batts are getting charged but my converter is not suppling 12v house power, this the coach is always in the boondogging mode. Am I correct in my opinion here?
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Old 12-21-2018, 07:31 PM   #4
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your understanding is correct. with the batteries disconnected while connected to shore power you should still be receiving 12 volt power from the converter.

it sounds like you have an issue with the converter. it would be best to use a multimeter to confirm its dc output voltage. possible conditions that might keep it from working are:
120 vac circuit breaker has tripped
reverse polarity fuses on converter have blow
converter has failed.
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Old 12-21-2018, 08:12 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHICKDOE View Post
your understanding is correct. with the batteries disconnected while connected to shore power you should still be receiving 12 volt power from the converter.

it sounds like you have an issue with the converter. it would be best to use a multimeter to confirm its dc output voltage. possible conditions that might keep it from working are:
120 vac circuit breaker has tripped
reverse polarity fuses on converter have blow
converter has failed.
Some units lose a lot of the 12 volt items when the battery is disconnected. Mine does, and when I talked to the mfgr they said the system uses the batteries, which are being charged by the Progressive, to deliver the power to the lights, etc. Reason...batteries provide a constant voltage at a stabilized frequency.

Sounds logical but donít see the need.
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Old 12-21-2018, 08:34 PM   #6
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hey a32

When you swapped out converters did you have to do any work at the distribution box? Were you using a wafo 9855?
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Old 12-21-2018, 08:37 PM   #7
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My Solera with the WFCO converter occasionally trips the breaker when I connect shore power. Behaves as you describe.
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Old 12-22-2018, 08:08 AM   #8
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My converter was separate from the fuse?breaker panel. It was in what they call the Garage under the bed. simple unplug, disconnect the heavy bat. leads and remove from the wall. Opposite for the install.
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Old 12-22-2018, 08:58 AM   #9
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You said you removed the batteries charged and reconnected them. If you accidentally reconnected one wrong even for a second, you blew the two reverse polarity fuses. Check the two high current fuses in the fuse panel or back of the converter.
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Old 12-22-2018, 09:01 AM   #10
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If you only see two LEDs with the shore power connected, your converter is not working. This is confirmed by shutting off the batteryies and losing everything (except the LP which is directly connected to the batteries with an in-line fuse).

If you have a WFCO that is built into the AC panel (lower grille with fan) there is no separate breaker for the converter. If everything AC works, you have AC, so either the fuses in the converter have gone bad...or the converter has. You can get a Progressive Dynamics "drop in" replacement for the converter in a WFCO panel.

If you feel comfortable with a multimeter, you can check the AC going to the converter to see if it is present and the converter fuses as well. You can check the output for 13.3 or more DC, but your LEDs are already telling you...it ain't there.

In the short term you can get a battery charger and directly connect it to your battery bank and you should be OK until you can get the converter looked at...or replaced.
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