extended subfreezing temperatures

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by cllecr

My DH and a friend who used to have an RV decided they could do it, by the time I arrived they said they couldn't get the "drain" open (what size socket is needed? 1"?)... So they drained it the hard way (indicating low point drain underneath). We even went out and bought a socket (thought we saw 7/8 needed somewhere)...so that didn't work.

Any way to flush that gunk out of the system to prevent potential low pressure problems?

1 and 1/16 inch socket. Keep it in the camper tool bag

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by cllecr

My DH and a friend who used to have an RV decided they could do it, by the time I arrived they said they couldn't get the "drain" open (what size socket is needed? 1"?)... So they drained it the hard way (indicating low point drain underneath). We even went out and bought a socket (thought we saw 7/8 needed somewhere)...so that didn't work.

Any way to flush that gunk out of the system to prevent potential low pressure problems?

depends on if you are unlucky.

if you are lucky, all will work fine. if not, you can try removing the aerator screens at the faucets. The toilet is bit more complex.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...c-v-15261.html

properly done, winterizing with rv antifreeze uses about a gallon of "pink".

[cllecr]

Herk, than, to do this "properly" requires addition of a siphon hose and valve at the water pump? Why would our 2011 not include this if it was necessary? The unit was winterized when we bought it. Is the siphon system something you can just "attach, use and store?" Why does the forest river manual only give instructions for the procedure we used if it isn't proper?
Confused, bordering on frustrated.

[paulmlac]

I had the dealer winterize my unit. I asked them to install a line in for antifreeze at the water pump. They came back with a pretty high price. They said it was a very tight space (it is) & that they would need to remove some of the storage compartment wall material around the water pump just to work on it. I told them no. But I also asked how they got antifreeze into the system. They said they had something special to get antifreeze into the pump / lines without dumping any in the water tank. Have been curious what that tool is.

[cllecr]

These are the instructions provided in the Forest River manual. Is this procedure not safe? Certainly there should be something warning us if that is so!

WINTERIZING WITH RV APPROVED ANTI-FREEZE
Purchase 4-6 gallons of RV approved, non-toxic antifreeze.
1. Drain all tanks, fresh water, and sewage tanks.
2. Turn water heater bypass valve to ‘bypass’ position. (See picture on previous page.)
3. Drain water heater.
4. If you have a water filter system installed, remove the filter from the assembly and discard. (You
will need to purchase a new one and install it when dewinterizing your unit.)
5. Fill the tank above minimum water pump operation level with the RV antifreeze. (Use of a long
funnel may be helpful.)
6. Turn the pump switch ‘ON’ and open the cold water side of all faucet fixtures. Leave the faucets
open until the antifreeze, (generally pink in color), flows out of the faucets. Repeat for the hot
water side.
7. Flush toilet until antifreeze is visable inside the bowl and pour one gallon of antifreeze down the
toilet to winterize the black holding tank.
8. Pour antifreeze down each shower/tub, lavatory sink and kitchen sink to fill p-traps.
9. To winterize gray tank(s), pour one gallon down each related sink drain.

[cllecr]

Originally Posted by paulmlac

They said they had something special to get antifreeze into the pump / lines without dumping any in the water tank. Have been curious what that tool is.

Me too!!

[Herk7769]

There is a 3 way valve they screw into the input line. It is all fixed up with threaded fittings so you don't do any plumbing except hand tighten the fittings till they do not leak.

Camco RV Winterizing Pump Converter Kit by Camco 36543

Camco RV Pump Converter Winterizing Kit - Mills Fleet Farm


If 13 bucks is a bit high, you can just buy a plastic 1/2 inch NPT female to 1/2 inch barb fitting. Just screw the hose fitting going to the fresh water tank and hook this up to the inlet screen filter on the suction side of the water pump.

Nylon Hose Barb x Female Pipe (NPT)

TFS44 TFS44 -- 1/2" Hose Barb x 1/2" NPT Female Pipe (Nylon) $2.15

There is a fuse right at the water pump that I use to turn the pump on and off so I can monitor the level in the 1 gallon jug so the pump does not suck air.

[ATVer]

Concerning anti freeze in the tank, it's not going to hurt anything or you as long as you use the correct nontoxic RV antifreeze. I have read the label on some RV antifreeze and it sure doesn't say nontoxic and gives all kinds of warnings on it. I would never drink water from the tank anyway. I always carry bottled spring water for drinking purposes.

Concerning no mention of flushing the city supply connection, I too wondered why they never mentioned it for filling with antifreeze but I believe my manual said to air blow it. When my dealer winterizes he uses a portable pump to push the antifreeze in through the city water connection which resolves this problem. It may also be possible your model has a very short connection (mine is 2-3 feet) to one of the lines which would get antifreeze from the pump and maybe they assume capillary mixing action would take care of it.

[Six Pack]

Just wondering guys,don't they still sell those hand pumps (camco I think)to winterize from the kitchen sink?I used that method on my three trailers and many of my friends rv's for many years.All you had to do was drain the lines,blow them out,pump in the antifreeze and open the faucets at each location until you saw pink and add to the traps and toilet.

[cllecr]

Originally Posted by herk7769

There is a 3 way valve they screw into the input line. It is all fixed up with threaded fittings so you don't do any plumbing except hand tighten the fittings till they do not leak.

If 13 bucks is a bit high, you can just buy a plastic 1/2 inch NPT female to 1/2 inch barb fitting. Just screw the hose fitting going to the fresh water tank and hook this up to the inlet screen filter on the suction side of the water pump.

TFS44 TFS44 -- 1/2" Hose Barb x 1/2" NPT Female Pipe (Nylon) $2.15

There is a fuse right at the water pump that I use to turn the pump on and off so I can monitor the level in the 1 gallon jug so the pump does not suck air.

So, this just stays attached to the water pump once it is put in place... to be used when winterizing... or do you replace it each time when you need it?

So wish i had known this before we needed the info in a hurry.... I know what I will be looking for the next time we find an RV supply store... or can mail order when we get home and have an address again.

Didn't intend to have to winterize this year... we were going to stay south until Spring... but sh*t happens (frozen lines and a flood at home!) and I sure didn't want to face the same issue with the motorhome.

[ATVer]

Originally Posted by Six Pack

Just wondering guys,don't they still sell those hand pumps (camco I think)to winterize from the kitchen sink?I used that method on my three trailers and many of my friends rv's for many years.All you had to do was drain the lines,blow them out,pump in the antifreeze and open the faucets at each location until you saw pink and add to the traps and toilet.

Agreed, I drain all I can, air blow everything from the shore connection then pump in antifreeze. using the main pump and a hand pump for the shore connection line.

[cllecr]

Originally Posted by herk7769

If you did not get the anode out; how did you drain it? Using the plumbing to drain the hot water heater has risks. Bits of anode (a normal process) and calcium deposits can get swept into the cold water pipes when using the low point drains to drain the hot water heater.

When you hook up fresh water in the spring, that rubbish in the pipes can be pushed into faucets and the flush valve on the toilet causing low pressure and flush problems.

I would not use that technique next year.

Close the bypass system first, then using the appropriate socket, extension, and wrench to remove the anode and using a flush wand made for flushing out the heater (or a homemade one, like the photo) flush out the garbage from the bottom of the water heater.

Ok, we got a 1 1/16" socket, removed the anode... expected undrained water to spill out but it was dry. Is it safe to assume that the plumbing to HWH is safely drained? Should we try to fashion a wand to rinse out the heater now... is there likely "gunk" in there? Should we clean the anode in any way?Then replace the anode or plug?

Guess we will deal with the possibility of minerals and gunk in the plumbing when we dewinterize.

I'm afraid to do much of anything any more without confirmation here.... seems that the manual is not a reliable source of information.

[cllecr]

Originally Posted by ATVer

Agreed, I drain all I can, air blow everything from the shore connection then pump in antifreeze. using the main pump and a hand pump for the shore connection line.

Ok.... do we need to do this or risk those pipes freezing?? Nothing mentioned in manual about this. If so... what kind of hand pump do I need to look for and where?

[racerx]

To help you understand the process better " google" rv winterization on u tube. Watch several different video's. They vary slightly, but will give you a better understanding of the process

[paulmlac]

Originally Posted by herk7769

There is a 3 way valve they screw into the input line. It is all fixed up with threaded fittings so you don't do any plumbing except hand tighten the fittings till they do not leak.

Camco RV Winterizing Pump Converter Kit by Camco 36543

Camco RV Pump Converter Winterizing Kit - Mills Fleet Farm


If 13 bucks is a bit high, you can just buy a plastic 1/2 inch NPT female to 1/2 inch barb fitting. Just screw the hose fitting going to the fresh water tank and hook this up to the inlet screen filter on the suction side of the water pump.

Nylon Hose Barb x Female Pipe (NPT)

TFS44 TFS44 -- 1/2" Hose Barb x 1/2" NPT Female Pipe (Nylon) $2.15

There is a fuse right at the water pump that I use to turn the pump on and off so I can monitor the level in the 1 gallon jug so the pump does not suck air.

Interesting the dealer does something like this temporarily to winterize my unit but quotes me a couple hundred bucks to install a winterization line to the water pump (again, they were saying it was because the space was tight & they would need to remove some of the wall in the storage area to get at the water pump for the install). Maybe the permanent solution is different than the temporary solution.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by Six Pack

Just wondering guys,don't they still sell those hand pumps (camco I think)to winterize from the kitchen sink?I used that method on my three trailers and many of my friends rv's for many years.All you had to do was drain the lines,blow them out,pump in the antifreeze and open the faucets at each location until you saw pink and add to the traps and toilet.

Yep CAMCO sure does. Very handy little gadget.
RV Hand Pump Antifreeze Winterize Winterizing Kit | eBay



I use my outside shower hose to flush out all the check valves using this adapter.

[awwall]

This little diagram helped me understand winterizing a lot better.

[ATVer]

I bought this pump at harbor freight (it's on sale for $5 now) , an air blow mail adapter to connect it from the pump outlet line to the city water hose female connection (about $2 at Walmart) , and small hose clamp.

Multi-Use Transfer Pump

[ATVer]

Originally Posted by herk7769

Yep CAMCO sure does. Very handy little gadget.
RV Hand Pump Antifreeze Winterize Winterizing Kit | eBay



I use my outside shower hose to flush out all the check valves using this adapter.

Good point, you don't want to forget about the black and gray water flushers if you have them.

[RvBill3]

Originally Posted by paulmlac

Interesting the dealer does something like this temporarily to winterize my unit but quotes me a couple hundred bucks to install a winterization line to the water pump (again, they were saying it was because the space was tight & they would need to remove some of the wall in the storage area to get at the water pump for the install). Maybe the permanent solution is different than the temporary solution.

Here is how I installed the winterizing valve in a tight space.

Before



After