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Old 01-24-2013, 12:33 PM   #21
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My DH and a friend who used to have an RV decided they could do it, by the time I arrived they said they couldn't get the "drain" open (what size socket is needed? 1"?)... So they drained it the hard way (indicating low point drain underneath). We even went out and bought a socket (thought we saw 7/8 needed somewhere)...so that didn't work.

Any way to flush that gunk out of the system to prevent potential low pressure problems?
1 and 1/16 inch socket. Keep it in the camper tool bag
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:38 PM   #22
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My DH and a friend who used to have an RV decided they could do it, by the time I arrived they said they couldn't get the "drain" open (what size socket is needed? 1"?)... So they drained it the hard way (indicating low point drain underneath). We even went out and bought a socket (thought we saw 7/8 needed somewhere)...so that didn't work.

Any way to flush that gunk out of the system to prevent potential low pressure problems?
depends on if you are unlucky.

if you are lucky, all will work fine. if not, you can try removing the aerator screens at the faucets. The toilet is bit more complex.

Repairing a Thetford Aqua Magic V

properly done, winterizing with rv antifreeze uses about a gallon of "pink".
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Old 01-24-2013, 01:32 PM   #23
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Herk, than, to do this "properly" requires addition of a siphon hose and valve at the water pump? Why would our 2011 not include this if it was necessary? The unit was winterized when we bought it. Is the siphon system something you can just "attach, use and store?" Why does the forest river manual only give instructions for the procedure we used if it isn't proper?
Confused, bordering on frustrated.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:16 PM   #24
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I had the dealer winterize my unit. I asked them to install a line in for antifreeze at the water pump. They came back with a pretty high price. They said it was a very tight space (it is) & that they would need to remove some of the storage compartment wall material around the water pump just to work on it. I told them no. But I also asked how they got antifreeze into the system. They said they had something special to get antifreeze into the pump / lines without dumping any in the water tank. Have been curious what that tool is.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:24 PM   #25
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Instructions in FR manual

These are the instructions provided in the Forest River manual. Is this procedure not safe? Certainly there should be something warning us if that is so!

WINTERIZING WITH RV APPROVED ANTI-FREEZE
Purchase 4-6 gallons of RV approved, non-toxic antifreeze.
1. Drain all tanks, fresh water, and sewage tanks.
2. Turn water heater bypass valve to ‘bypass’ position. (See picture on previous page.)
3. Drain water heater.
4. If you have a water filter system installed, remove the filter from the assembly and discard. (You
will need to purchase a new one and install it when dewinterizing your unit.)
5. Fill the tank above minimum water pump operation level with the RV antifreeze. (Use of a long
funnel may be helpful.)
6. Turn the pump switch ‘ON’ and open the cold water side of all faucet fixtures. Leave the faucets
open until the antifreeze, (generally pink in color), flows out of the faucets. Repeat for the hot
water side.
7. Flush toilet until antifreeze is visable inside the bowl and pour one gallon of antifreeze down the
toilet to winterize the black holding tank.
8. Pour antifreeze down each shower/tub, lavatory sink and kitchen sink to fill p-traps.
9. To winterize gray tank(s), pour one gallon down each related sink drain.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:25 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulmlac View Post
They said they had something special to get antifreeze into the pump / lines without dumping any in the water tank. Have been curious what that tool is.
Me too!!
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:34 PM   #27
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There is a 3 way valve they screw into the input line. It is all fixed up with threaded fittings so you don't do any plumbing except hand tighten the fittings till they do not leak.

Camco RV Winterizing Pump Converter Kit by Camco 36543

Camco RV Pump Converter Winterizing Kit - Mills Fleet Farm


If 13 bucks is a bit high, you can just buy a plastic 1/2 inch NPT female to 1/2 inch barb fitting. Just screw the hose fitting going to the fresh water tank and hook this up to the inlet screen filter on the suction side of the water pump.

Nylon Hose Barb x Female Pipe (NPT)

TFS44 TFS44 -- 1/2" Hose Barb x 1/2" NPT Female Pipe (Nylon) $2.15

There is a fuse right at the water pump that I use to turn the pump on and off so I can monitor the level in the 1 gallon jug so the pump does not suck air.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:51 PM   #28
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Concerning anti freeze in the tank, it's not going to hurt anything or you as long as you use the correct nontoxic RV antifreeze. I have read the label on some RV antifreeze and it sure doesn't say nontoxic and gives all kinds of warnings on it. I would never drink water from the tank anyway. I always carry bottled spring water for drinking purposes.

Concerning no mention of flushing the city supply connection, I too wondered why they never mentioned it for filling with antifreeze but I believe my manual said to air blow it. When my dealer winterizes he uses a portable pump to push the antifreeze in through the city water connection which resolves this problem. It may also be possible your model has a very short connection (mine is 2-3 feet) to one of the lines which would get antifreeze from the pump and maybe they assume capillary mixing action would take care of it.
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:51 PM   #29
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Just wondering guys,don't they still sell those hand pumps (camco I think)to winterize from the kitchen sink?I used that method on my three trailers and many of my friends rv's for many years.All you had to do was drain the lines,blow them out,pump in the antifreeze and open the faucets at each location until you saw pink and add to the traps and toilet.
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:44 PM   #30
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that looks like an easy solution

Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
There is a 3 way valve they screw into the input line. It is all fixed up with threaded fittings so you don't do any plumbing except hand tighten the fittings till they do not leak.

If 13 bucks is a bit high, you can just buy a plastic 1/2 inch NPT female to 1/2 inch barb fitting. Just screw the hose fitting going to the fresh water tank and hook this up to the inlet screen filter on the suction side of the water pump.

TFS44 TFS44 -- 1/2" Hose Barb x 1/2" NPT Female Pipe (Nylon) $2.15

There is a fuse right at the water pump that I use to turn the pump on and off so I can monitor the level in the 1 gallon jug so the pump does not suck air.
So, this just stays attached to the water pump once it is put in place... to be used when winterizing... or do you replace it each time when you need it?

So wish i had known this before we needed the info in a hurry.... I know what I will be looking for the next time we find an RV supply store... or can mail order when we get home and have an address again.

Didn't intend to have to winterize this year... we were going to stay south until Spring... but sh*t happens (frozen lines and a flood at home!) and I sure didn't want to face the same issue with the motorhome.
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