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Old 09-27-2017, 08:18 AM   #1
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Freeze Question

I have a 2014 Sunseeker 3170DS. Planning to take a trip from Colorado to California in a few weeks. Time is short and we have multiple drivers, so I am thinking to drive straight through coming home. This will take me through parts of Utah where overnight temps will be 25 +/- degrees. Is that cold enough to freeze my lines if I am driving? If I/we get too tired and stop, is that cold enough to freeze my lines?
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Old 09-27-2017, 08:24 AM   #2
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It really depends on how long the the cold will last. If it's just a brief did below freezing, you should be ok. If it will be cold for a while then yes, you could run into trouble.
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Old 09-27-2017, 08:39 AM   #3
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I agree with Tim,
Length of time below freezing is the factor.

Remember, the second it drops to/below 32º doesn't mean things freeze immediately. It takes some time for that to happen. Also if you are driving, we'll all assume you have your motorhome warmer than 32º inside. It would take hours for it to cool off enough for something to freeze.
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Old 09-27-2017, 09:08 AM   #4
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You can run your propane furnace while you are driving to keep the water lines warm. Just running it when you stop for breaks would probably be enough.

If you have plenty in your fresh water tank it will certainly not freeze. Run water in your sink every few hours and check the temperature as it purges the water lines. That will tell you if the water in the lines is getting close to freezing.

Also, empty the holding tanks before you hit the road and put some antifreeze in them. That will prevent ice in the dump valves. Having water from the sinks or toilet diluting the antifreeze won't hurt. It won't take much antifreeze to protect the tank dump valves at 25 degrees.

Don't turn on the Arctic Pak holding tank heaters unless you have several gallons of water in both tanks. They will overheat the plastic tank where they are attached if there's no water to absorb the heat.
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Old 09-27-2017, 04:21 PM   #5
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I learned the hard way that driving a long distance in below freezing weather that you need to take into account the windchill. A MH not moving won’t freeze the water lines nearly as fast as one running down the road at 60 or 70 mph.
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Old 09-28-2017, 09:05 AM   #6
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I learned the hard way that driving a long distance in below freezing weather that you need to take into account the windchill. A MH not moving won’t freeze the water lines nearly as fast as one running down the road at 60 or 70 mph.

Windchill is an evaporative effect of stripping warm air away from your body/skin with wind. It does not affect inanimate objects the same. They can only be as cold as the ambient outside air no matter how much wind blows on them.

The only effect wind chill has on inanimate objects, such as water pipes, is to more quickly cool the object to the current air temperature. The object will NOT cool below the actual air temperature because wind is blowing on/across it.

There are tons and tons of studies in the Antarctic showing temperature probes inside enclosed/protected boxes along with other probes mounted to the outside of the box exposed to high winds. They both read exactly the same.
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Old 09-28-2017, 11:46 AM   #7
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That is correct that wind chill is a measure of how it feels. However, although wind speed does not affect the ultimate temperature of inanimate objects, it affects how rapidly that object gets to that temperature. That's the basic question on this thread: How many hours can you safely drive in freezing weather before your pipes start to freeze?

Personally, I'm paranoid about things like this and probably go too far with precautions. But I REALLY want to avoid problems on the road.

The pipe I'd be worried about is the hot water low point drain. Our Sunseeker came with a cap on it. It is always fillled with water, it's not heated and is in the wind. I worried about it freezing so I added a valve in the line inside the water pump/filter compartment like the fresh water tank drain. I leave the cap off.[ATTACH]152725
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Old 09-28-2017, 03:05 PM   #8
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water mods

When time allows consider relocating the drain valve to the warmer bat and ditch the plastic cap.. If you lose the HW cap your water functions are off line. The valves with the proper sized male fittings can be had at Lowes for about 5 bucks each. SS uses the standard pex tubing.
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Old 09-28-2017, 03:49 PM   #9
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When time allows consider relocating the drain valve to the warmer bat and ditch the plastic cap.. If you lose the HW cap your water functions are off line. The valves with the proper sized male fittings can be had at Lowes for about 5 bucks each. SS uses the standard pex tubing.
I used a Gatorbite or Sharkbite valve to eliminate the cap on the exposed drain tubing. It cost more than a standard PEX fitting but I didn't need a crimping tool.

Sort of off topic: Just for insurance (since I am paranoid) I put a Gatorbite/Sharkbite end cap in my parts box so I can cut and seal off a piece of tubing if I am on the road and have a serious problem. This style of fitting is removable so I can take it off to make a permanent repair later.
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Old 09-28-2017, 04:06 PM   #10
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Also I ran them out the back so I don't stand in water.
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