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Old 05-12-2013, 08:45 PM   #21
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Paul, I read in another forum that the fins get colder from right to left. I'm not sure how to say this but if the far right fin warmest temp is too cold it may signal to maintain too low of a temp. It won't hurt to move the thermostat assy to the next fin over and see if it has any effect.

You don't mention your model. Number but I assume it has the white plastic slider with the thermostat shoved inside. Just slide it off the fin and put it on the fin next to it and see what happens.
So now instead of sliding the thermosister up the fin for colder now we may have to move it the left

This is getting ridiculous.

Why can't Dometic simply explain how it works in their manual?

Perhaps we are all wrong and we need to move to the outside of the fridge or perhaps it is simply a pencil holder.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:04 PM   #22
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Thermistor is simply a "resistor" that changes value with temp changes. If the signal from the board is conducting thru the fins changes value the heat supply to the coils will start or stop. Moving up on the fin is a higher temp area and the control board will start the cycle, if lowered it will cause the reefer heat supply to cut off. Same with box temperature, it acts as the internal thermostat. Problem is the range of low to high fin setting is not completely accurate or wide ranging.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:07 PM   #23
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Thanks to all of you who have replied to this thread. Great comments, links and ideas. I'm still messing with the location of the thermister at this point. I've got it further to the left now and making very small adjustments, several hours in between each adjustment. I've got it up above the freezing temp, but it's not always consistant. I had never tried moving it this far over. On the far right fin, it pretty much stayed in the freezing temps. The further to the left, the better it got. Position of the fridge fan has made a slight difference as well. I've moved it around from bottom left / right, up a little and all around comparing temps. So, maybe the termister isn't all that bad, yet. Maybe I haven't been patient enough, very likely. I've just never had a fridge do this and it got me pretty stirred. I'm not holding my breath. The outfit I believe Wayne mentioned at (Dometic Thermistor Repair Kit) looks pretty neat. Has anybody tried this fix / upgrade? Looks like a cheap and easy fix, and less aggravating to adjust if it works as advertised. If it works for sure, I might would do this regardless of the status of the existing one. If I knew we were going to keep this MH for several years, no doubt I'd probably put the residential and inverter in. For now, I'm learning more and more about the typical RV fridge.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:14 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by VinceU View Post
Thermistor is simply a "resistor" that changes value with temp changes. If the signal from the board is conducting thru the fins changes value the heat supply to the coils will start or stop. Moving up on the fin is a higher temp area and the control board will start the cycle, if lowered it will cause the reefer heat supply to cut off. Same with box temperature, it acts as the internal thermostat. Problem is the range of low to high fin setting is not completely accurate or wide ranging.
Makes sense - but why not a simple photo and explanation of what it is and how to use it?
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:20 PM   #25
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So now instead of sliding the thermosister up the fin for colder now we may have to move it the left

This is getting ridiculous.

Why can't Dometic simply explain how it works in their manual?

Perhaps we are all wrong and we need to move to the outside of the fridge or perhaps it is simply a pencil holder.
B47, I'm just trying to help? I guess I missed your post as to what is wrong with your fridge? RV's are like boats, documentation sucks but that is what this forum is for. I don't work for Dometic or any other manufacturer, I just like to help and make positive posts.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:25 PM   #26
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B47, I'm just trying to help? I guess I missed your post as to what is wrong with your fridge? RV's are like boats, documentation sucks but that is what this forum is for. I don't work for Dometic or any other manufacturer, I just like to help and make positive posts.
No quarrel with you - it's just the fact that the manufacturer can't or won't provide an adequate manual for their product.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:30 PM   #27
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I gotta agree that MOST manuals, not just the ones for the fridge, are just enough to make you say "what?", and turn to the forum for feedback and answers. Makes us all smarter though huh?
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:35 PM   #28
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I gotta agree that MOST manuals, not just the ones for the fridge, are just enough to make you say "what?", and turn to the forum for feedback and answers. Makes us all smarter though huh?
Yeah and this ain't my first manual rodeo. I and many others have long complained about them and I posted a rant above the outdoor kitchen refrig manual sometime ago.

I like what you said about most of them just making you ask what
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:29 PM   #29
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I think the jest of all this is that the thermistor as installed by Dometic is not working as designed. I have the Dometic and mine works fine. Slide up and down on the far right fin and I can control temp.

BigJohn, I have done a couple of mods to the fridge as many others have and they are:

Added fans to cooling fins for better air circulation in the fridge and better temp distribution. I run mine at 34-36 degrees.

Added cooling fans in the rear of the Dometic for aiding in heat removal from the ammonia coils. Really helps in the summer.
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:43 PM   #30
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Kind of odd for the entry level fridge, but it already has the cooling fan on the backside of the fridge. Caught me off guard at first when we bought the coach as I kept hearing something kick on and off every now and then. Sure enough, there's a thermostat controlled fan back there. I would say that's a must, especially with the in slide fridge where the heat is discharged out of the side wall instead of straight out of the roof.
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