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Old 09-09-2015, 12:17 PM   #1
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Furnace Won't Fire

Let me say first off that we just got back from a trip and had a great time, even if some stuff didn't work.

Model: 2010 - 3170
Issue: Started having an issue with the furnace one night where we had to shut the system off and then back to 'Furnace' and it would ignite. The second night it ran until 2 AM and then I could not get it to fire again. The fan would start up immediately but I would not hear any 'clicking' or attempt to ignite the gas. Checked the stove, started up after it seemed a little air in the line and was a good blue color. Went out and shut the gas off at the tank and turned it back on with no luck. Water heater works on gas mode too. All that being said I think the regulators are fine although I might replace mine. I read another posting that a "tripped check valve that wouldn't reset" could be my issue.

If that is the case does anyone know where the the "check value" would be on my gas line running to the furnace on a 2010 Sunseeker 3170?

Warning, stupid question: Can I change the regulator with an LP tank that is partially full? I'd imagine there is a shut off valve in front of the regulator.

Thanks! I hope to start answering questions on here instead of asking
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Old 09-09-2015, 12:37 PM   #2
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I have exactly the same problem with my 2015 335DS and it is going in for warranty repairs this month. My unit would fire and run for a while, but on the 2nd fire it would try 3 times (and interestingly light successfully all 3) and then shut down. If I recycle the thermostat...it will do the same thing again. Stove, oven and water heater work flawlessly. I did notice that the problem started immediately after I had the propane tank refilled and I am assuming that the regulator is wrong for the furnace, which seems to have some pretty sensitive flame detection technology. Tried to use up some propane but the stove and the water heater don't use that much.

I should note that the whole thing worked flawlessly for the first 4 weeks in really cold temperatures (or until I refilled.)

If you are igniting but still shutting down (you can hear the flame from outside) bet it is the regulator. I will find out in a couple of weeks.
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Old 09-09-2015, 12:48 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein View Post
I have exactly the same problem with my 2015 335DS and it is going in for warranty repairs this month. My unit would fire and run for a while, but on the 2nd fire it would try 3 times (and interestingly light successfully all 3) and then shut down. If I recycle the thermostat...it will do the same thing again. Stove, oven and water heater work flawlessly. I did notice that the problem started immediately after I had the propane tank refilled and I am assuming that the regulator is wrong for the furnace, which seems to have some pretty sensitive flame detection technology. Tried to use up some propane but the stove and the water heater don't use that much.

I should note that the whole thing worked flawlessly for the first 4 weeks in really cold temperatures (or until I refilled.)

If you are igniting but still shutting down (you can hear the flame from outside) bet it is the regulator. I will find out in a couple of weeks.
Thanks for the reply. No burning or flame sound from inside or outside the rig.

When it's not working:
1. Thermostat calls for heat
2. Furnace fan starts immediately, no ignition (clicking) and no flow of gas
3. Furnace fan shuts off after about 10-15 seconds

When it works:
1. Thermostat calls for heat
2. Furnace fan starts immediately
3. Sounds of electronic ignition (clicking) and the flow of gas
4. Furnace ignites
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Old 09-09-2015, 05:20 PM   #4
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There is a small chance that this may be your problem, but you may want to check it. We had a problem with the furnace in our 2011 Sunseeker this past spring. In our case, the fan didn't run. It turned out the fuse was loose. The same fuse powers the furnace and the refrigerator, but the panel was only marked "Refrig". The loose fuse transmitted enough power to run the refrigerator, but not the furnace fan. I moved the wire to an unused fuse holder in the panel and changed the label.


As I said, it's not likely that you have the problem we had. It sounds like your gas solenoid is sticking. Can you reach the furnace and bang on it just after the fan starts?


I assume you have turned the thermostat off and back on to reset it after the furnace has gone through three attempts to fire.
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Old 09-11-2015, 10:38 AM   #5
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Check valve

Does anyone know where the inline check valve is between the main LP tank and the furnace? If it even exists.

I've read this could be it.
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Old 09-11-2015, 10:41 AM   #6
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Generally the check valve protects the entire system and should be located close to the tank itself, rather than just in the leg that goes to the furnace.
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Old 09-11-2015, 11:18 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knockando View Post
Let me say first off that we just got back from a trip and had a great time, even if some stuff didn't work.

Model: 2010 - 3170
Issue: Started having an issue with the furnace one night where we had to shut the system off and then back to 'Furnace' and it would ignite. The second night it ran until 2 AM and then I could not get it to fire again. The fan would start up immediately but I would not hear any 'clicking' or attempt to ignite the gas. Checked the stove, started up after it seemed a little air in the line and was a good blue color. Went out and shut the gas off at the tank and turned it back on with no luck. Water heater works on gas mode too. All that being said I think the regulators are fine although I might replace mine. I read another posting that a "tripped check valve that wouldn't reset" could be my issue.

If that is the case does anyone know where the the "check value" would be on my gas line running to the furnace on a 2010 Sunseeker 3170?

Warning, stupid question: Can I change the regulator with an LP tank that is partially full? I'd imagine there is a shut off valve in front of the regulator.

Thanks! I hope to start answering questions on here instead of asking
Start
Thermostat Calls
for Heat
The wall thermostat controls the operation of the furnace by reacting to room
temperature, this allows current to flow through the On/Off switch to the module board.
The module board constantly checks for a minimum 9.5 volts. If there is not 9.5 volts,
the module board will go into a stand by mode until adequate power is supplied. It will
then resume normal operation.
Upon a call from the thermostat, the module board thermostat circuit will go active. The
sail switch circuit is verified as being open. The blower output is energized. Blower
motor starts.
15 Seconds Purge
Cycle
The module board will then verify that the sail switch circuit is closed and motor is up
to speed. If this circuit remains open for 30 seconds after the blower motor starts, the
module board will go into lock out and shut down the blower motor.
The module board checks that the gas valve relay contacts (which are located on the
module board) are open before the ignition sequence starts.
The board has a pre-purge timing circuit of (approximately 15 seconds). This allows the
chamber to purge.
7 Seconds Ignition
Cycle and Flame
Sense
The module board will energize the gas valve and enable the high voltage spark output
to the electrode for 7 seconds of ignition time.
The module board will then check for flame sense to verify successful lighting of the
main burner flame. Sparking will then be terminated and the gas valve and blower
outputs will remain energized.
If ignition is successful the module board will monitor the flame sense, sail switch and
limit switch circuits, and the thermostat inputs during the heating period.
The flame is sensed through the spark wire and electrode. Therefore, it is essential that
the electrode is properly positioned in the burner flame.

Hi I copied the above description of operation from the library. It sounds like the sail switch safety is not working and not letting the furnace gas system start. The furnace should shut down and lock out after 30 seconds with no fan proof.

Hope this helps Tim
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Old 09-11-2015, 11:29 AM   #8
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Sail switch

It could be the "SAIL SWITCH" is stuck! This would prevent the furnace from lighting.
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Old 09-21-2015, 02:42 PM   #9
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Fixed! Resolution

After reading a lot online about similar issues with the Suburban SF-30F the conclusion was to replace the dual stage propane regulator next to the main LP tank. I did this and after opening/closing the tank along with firing the stove up to prime/purge the lines the furnace ignited!

So in conclusion, if your furnace is not firing I would suggest these things before having any service work done:
1. Shut gas off at tank and burn off remaining gas in lines at stove. Open tank valve very very slow and try furnace again. I would do this at least 3 times before giving up.

2. Replace the dual stage propane regulator and proceed with #1 after replacement.

Hope this helps with some headaches out there.
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Old 10-15-2015, 12:16 PM   #10
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Here's our recent story. New Flagstaff Microlite 21ds, third outing. (2 batteries, dealer installed.) Second morning of a 2-night stay without hook ups. Battery monitor indicated "good" 2/3. While cooking bacon and pancakes one or both alarms, CO/propane and smoke, sounded. opened door and windows and ran range hood fan and bathroom fan. It took a long time to silence the alarms...maybe 15 minutes. When that was finally done I tried to run the furnace to take the chill off. The fan would cycle, the gas would initially ignite. You could feel warm air at the register but shortly the air would not be warm any more and the fan would run for a while and then stop. Not sure if CO/propane alarm sounded during that time. Didn't think to hook up the tow vehicle to see if it just needed a little more voltage to work right. Now at home with batteries fully charged and operating on shore power the furnace runs just fine.
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