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Old 08-03-2012, 12:35 PM   #1
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Help Design the next Sunseeker...

What would you like to see on future models?

I'm looking for "must have" features....I'll even take a floor plan idea if you've got one. We'll be paying you exactly what I get for new ideas....nothing!
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Old 08-03-2012, 12:42 PM   #2
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you did ask.

the solera 24ms floor plan in a sunseeker 2300 box chevy 4500

with or without slide.

. larger propane tank(9.8 gallon is small)
2. AGM battery option
3. skylights
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Old 08-03-2012, 12:43 PM   #3
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I did...and I'm ok with that. We just might have to think outside the box on that one.
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Old 08-03-2012, 01:22 PM   #4
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A bunkhouse model that isn't over the gvwr with full gas, partially full water tanks, and a family with their stuff. Seems like none have enough capacity....
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Old 08-03-2012, 07:35 PM   #5
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I would say all stainless steel sink and faucet in bathroom and a better shower nozzle. What about the 3v v10 for more power? More 120v outlets in kitchen and bedroom. Way better manuals and training! Dealer did a nice job but a comprehensive video by you on each model would be helpful.

Need way better info on the nav system.

I just bought mine and those are the things we noticed. I love the 3010 layout.
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Old 08-04-2012, 02:16 AM   #6
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Couple Things (3170DS Bunkhouse)
1) Additional vibration dampers for the water pump under the master bed
2) Adjust the water in so the door does not interfere
3) Heavy/strong seals around the coach door - windnoise when driving
4) slight adjusting in the hot water heater compartment - hard to get to the drain plug.
5) Stronger ladder in back - broke two steps already (I am only 220 pds)
6) Be nice having twin views on the back camera - one of parking and one for driving
7) Ensure the drain hole in the storage compartments is at the lowest location
8) Insulate the engine cover connections especially at the passenger sides
9) The space under the radio/dvd in bunk-room area is almost useless - see if the space can be better used
10) Have a small pull-out slide under the master bed so we can slide the bed away from the windows for tall people to sleep.
11) Add a small light and 110v power to the shelf in the closet behind the TV.

That is all for now.
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Old 08-04-2012, 09:51 AM   #7
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We'd be happy with a "double bed" option instead of the queen to allow room between bath wall and bed on the 2300. Would sure be easier to make the bed with one side open, but would require a different tank configuration underneath the bed.
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Old 08-05-2012, 03:04 PM   #8
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We have a 2860. How about an option to take out the dinette and replace with a free standing one? Or to replace with chairs?

The first thing we did was take out dinette and replace with two Flexsteel rockers. Even got the two grand kids trained to eat with plate in the lap if needed. Now we have been surprised, but not as much as daughter, with the announcement that number three is on the way.
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Old 08-05-2012, 04:17 PM   #9
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how about a twin bed plan with the bathroom between 2 twins beds on a 2300 box.
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Old 08-05-2012, 08:51 PM   #10
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We just picked our 2013 3100 up last Thursday & have been in it every night since but here's several thoughts (I'm sure more will come to mind over time):

Mirror with camera images - This might add cost but could it display three images at the same time including left side, back, & right side versus getting the sides only when doing the turn signal.

Shelf behind couch - Make it stick out from the wall just a little more. When the shades are drawn, a soda can in the cup holders is at a slight angle & hard to grab a hold of.

Chair by door - Give it the ability to swivel so that I can turn it toward the dinette to talk to people there.

Bathroom door magnet - Make it less strong. I feel like I am ripping the door off the hinges trying to get it off the magnet.

Plugs - Need more & in better locations. Winnebago is best in class here. I think just about every Winnebago I looked at with nightstands had plugs on each side & they were at the back by the wall & in the kitchen they were by the wall. In the 3100, there needs to be a plug on both sides of the bed & the plug in the kitchen needs to be on the wall versus the cabinet front.

Overhead lights - Should have the ability to flip the switch one way to turn on just one bulb or the other way to flip on both bulbs. We had that in the pop up we just traded up from & really liked that feature.

Gray / blank tank sizing - I know there are economies of scale to have gray / black the same sizes. Also that this will vary by user. But I think a gray tank should be bigger than the black tank versus both being 39 gallons.

On the 2860 floorplan, provide an option to exclude the outside kitchen. I would have bought that model but didn't want the outside kitchen. The outside storage went down a lot with the outside kitchen.
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:36 AM   #11
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A bunkhouse model that isn't over the gvwr with full gas, partially full water tanks, and a family with their stuff. Seems like none have enough capacity....
We're ALWAYS trying to cut weight...but the consensus from customers is to add more, more more. We had 7 seatbelts but many didn't think that was enough. We'll continue to research materials to cut weight, but it's hard to cut back on features.
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:42 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by MikeRP View Post
I would say all stainless steel sink and faucet in bathroom and a better shower nozzle. What about the 3v v10 for more power? More 120v outlets in kitchen and bedroom. Way better manuals and training! Dealer did a nice job but a comprehensive video by you on each model would be helpful.

Need way better info on the nav system.

I just bought mine and those are the things we noticed. I love the 3010 layout.
We don't choose the Engine options...that's a Ford thing. They don't put the 3 valve in a Class C, only the Class A's.

I think we are looking at a new shower head. I've seen a couple of proro-types.
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:04 AM   #13
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in the 3100 ss we would like to suggest moving the tv and swivel arm to the drivers side to make viewing from the chair easier and not causing neck strain to look up and see it as it is now. also, a couple more 110v outlets in the galley area. 2 plugs just doesnt cut it. another towel rack on the wall would be nice. thanks
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:05 AM   #14
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Mirror with camera images - This might add cost but could it display three images at the same time including left side, back, & right side versus getting the sides only when doing the turn signal. If you wanted to connect it to the Magnadyne instead I think it has that option. You lose the ability to use navigation and see all those screens at the same time though

Shelf behind couch - Make it stick out from the wall just a little more. When the shades are drawn, a soda can in the cup holders is at a slight angle & hard to grab a hold of. good idea, I'll see about that one.

Chair by door - Give it the ability to swivel so that I can turn it toward the dinette to talk to people there. We've proto-typed this...but see limited places to use it. Supplier wants a large commitment for testing

Bathroom door magnet - Make it less strong. I feel like I am ripping the door off the hinges trying to get it off the magnet. I actually like this. Other mfg's do a plastic part that breaks or just a spring hinge that can be blown open by the wind. This keeps dogs and wandering kids from just barging in

Plugs - Need more & in better locations. Winnebago is best in class here. I think just about every Winnebago I looked at with nightstands had plugs on each side & they were at the back by the wall & in the kitchen they were by the wall. In the 3100, there needs to be a plug on both sides of the bed & the plug in the kitchen needs to be on the wall versus the cabinet front. definitely ask about this one.

Overhead lights - Should have the ability to flip the switch one way to turn on just one bulb or the other way to flip on both bulbs. We had that in the pop up we just traded up from & really liked that feature.

Gray / blank tank sizing - I know there are economies of scale to have gray / black the same sizes. Also that this will vary by user. But I think a gray tank should be bigger than the black tank versus both being 39 gallons. I think some of it had to do with there the tank sits (between cross members). That is the max size we could fit in there with a shoe horn. Technically we could go smaller on the black, but can't go bigger on the gray.

On the 2860 floorplan, provide an option to exclude the outside kitchen. I would have bought that model but didn't want the outside kitchen. The outside storage went down a lot with the outside kitchen.We did that early on..but wanted to give each floor plan its own unique feature[/QUOTE]
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Old 08-06-2012, 10:26 AM   #15
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Here is a small pet peeve I have on my 2011 3170DS. The compartment door for the sewer connections interfere with the city water inlet when a hose is connected. This compartment door lifts up, and conveniently has a latch to hold it open. However, you can't fully open it when the hose is connected to the RV. Move the city water inlet to the right a few inches or change the compartment door to open to "left or right" similar to the large basement storage door which is next to it.
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Old 08-06-2012, 10:37 AM   #16
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Here is a small pet peeve I have on my 2011 3170DS. The compartment door for the sewer connections interfere with the city water inlet when a hose is connected. This compartment door lifts up, and conveniently has a latch to hold it open. However, you can't fully open it when the hose is connected to the RV. Move the city water inlet to the right a few inches or change the compartment door to open to "left or right" similar to the large basement storage door which is next to it.
I have forwarded this on to engineering. Sometimes moving the fresh water inlet is not as simple as it seems...but changing the door hinge might be doable.
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Old 08-06-2012, 11:06 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by hunt247 View Post
Here is a small pet peeve I have on my 2011 3170DS. The compartment door for the sewer connections interfere with the city water inlet when a hose is connected. This compartment door lifts up, and conveniently has a latch to hold it open. However, you can't fully open it when the hose is connected to the RV. Move the city water inlet to the right a few inches or change the compartment door to open to "left or right" similar to the large basement storage door which is next to it.
Correction, it appears engineering has already moved it. errr, I mean...OK, you ask and you shall receive, just changed it this morning for you. The hose just clears the door.
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Old 08-07-2012, 10:52 AM   #18
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A few ideas:

From what I've seen, I'd like the Solera 24S floor plan on an E-450 chassis. The SS 2450S is very close, but having the wardrobe/pantry located on the slide out would be nice.

Of course, there is one option that would be nice, but it might be expensive: A couple 24 volt solar rooftop solar panels using a MPPT controller. What this would do is allow one to keep batteries charged when the rig is not in use. Of course, having an inverter would also be nice as well, so I can plug in my laptop or use an electric shaver without having to fire up the generator.

Generator-wise, it would be nice to have Onan's Energy Command 30. This would allow one to have the generator fire up if the house batteries were low, or fire up the generator at specific times which is important for maintenance reasons. It also allows the generator to fire up when the A/C needs to come on as well. This is an option that isn't known by many people, but it makes life a lot easier.

A built-in surge suppressor/EMS system would be a nice option as well. This way, if a shore power outlet is wired like a 240VAC dryer, the rig doesn't get power as opposed to all the electrical components getting fried. This would also help with campsites with potentially destructive undervoltage issues. The EMS system would be handy if one is using a generator, just to ensure that loads are dropped when they get near the wattage limits.

A built in "extend-a-stay" system on the propane tank. This would allow one to carry around a couple 20 pound bottles and use those when boondocking far away from any propane fillers.

LED lighting at as many places as possible. This isn't that big a deal for most, but if one is off the grid, LEDs are very easy on the batteries.

When Atwood gets their tankless water heater that fits in a six gallon bay shipping, that would be a nice option.

On the chassis side, it would be nice if one could order the E-450 cabs with Ford SYNC, which would give Bluetooth capability for hands free calling.

As for tank sizes, I'd rather have the tanks the same size versus a smaller black tank, assuming the grey can't be expanded. Because, if worst case when boondocking, I can transfer grey water to the black tank fairly easily.

I appreciate asking for suggestions, I have a bunch. =)
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Old 08-07-2012, 11:02 AM   #19
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A few ideas:

From what I've seen, I'd like the Solera 24S floor plan on an E-450 chassis. The SS 2450S is very close, but having the wardrobe/pantry located on the slide out would be nice. We used to do it that way, but the wardrobe was over the wheel well and made for a REALLY tall dinette floor

Of course, there is one option that would be nice, but it might be expensive: A couple 24 volt solar rooftop solar panels using a MPPT controller. What this would do is allow one to keep batteries charged when the rig is not in use. Of course, having an inverter would also be nice as well, so I can plug in my laptop or use an electric shaver without having to fire up the generator.

Generator-wise, it would be nice to have Onan's Energy Command 30. This would allow one to have the generator fire up if the house batteries were low, or fire up the generator at specific times which is important for maintenance reasons. It also allows the generator to fire up when the A/C needs to come on as well. This is an option that isn't known by many people, but it makes life a lot easier.

A built-in surge suppressor/EMS system would be a nice option as well. This way, if a shore power outlet is wired like a 240VAC dryer, the rig doesn't get power as opposed to all the electrical components getting fried. This would also help with campsites with potentially destructive undervoltage issues. The EMS system would be handy if one is using a generator, just to ensure that loads are dropped when they get near the wattage limits. I like this idea, but there are some inline surge protectors available aftermarket and I don't think we can compete on price there.

A built in "extend-a-stay" system on the propane tank. This would allow one to carry around a couple 20 pound bottles and use those when boondocking far away from any propane fillers.

LED lighting at as many places as possible. This isn't that big a deal for most, but if one is off the grid, LEDs are very easy on the batteries. testing now

When Atwood gets their tankless water heater that fits in a six gallon bay shipping, that would be a nice option. I'm not sure we're as gung ho about this. They are LP only (Our 6 gallon is gas/electric) and we're not ecstatic about how it works on a pump. City water gives you a constant stream...not so much as the pump pulses

On the chassis side, it would be nice if one could order the E-450 cabs with Ford SYNC, which would give Bluetooth capability for hands free calling. All of our current dash radios offer Bluetooth hands free calling

As for tank sizes, I'd rather have the tanks the same size versus a smaller black tank, assuming the grey can't be expanded. Because, if worst case when boondocking, I can transfer grey water to the black tank fairly easily.

I appreciate asking for suggestions, I have a bunch. =)
---
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Old 08-07-2012, 02:13 PM   #20
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That is good to know. I didn't know that the dash radios had that capability. Thank you for the explanation since it does make sense now on a number of things. Especially items like the wheel height, and the fact that a water pump pulses, so it would cause uneven flow from a tankless water heater.
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