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Old 09-05-2015, 12:09 PM   #11
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If you can remove the flange, take a rivet gauge and, including the flange, see how deep the body of a rivet would be. If the holes are worn eccentric from the hardware moving, you can re-size the holes to a diameter that will accommodate a rivet. I would rent a pneumatic rivet puller and find a place that would sell you Cherry Rivets, which are used on aircraft. Before you pull the rivets, put a light coat of zinc chromate grease on the rivet body to prevent dissimilar metal corrosion. This should work as long as the flange is screwed to sheet metal, which from your picture, looks like self-tapping sheet metal screws. If they are screwed into wood, then you may have to find a small sized anchor bolt, which you insert through the holes. The anchor will deploy on the blind side, and then you can re-attach the flange that way. I am finding that when these coached are constructed, that little consideration is given to proper technique with regard to hardware and attachment. It is fixable, but you just need to take a little more time to figure things out than the people who put it together, who in my opinion are not mechanically inclined.If you can use a rivet puller, but are unable to find aircraft grade rivets, you can use automotive grade, using the same technique as mentioned. Take your time! Do it right, and you will never have to mess with it again.

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Old 09-05-2015, 12:22 PM   #12
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Ok, looking at it, the self tapper hex heads the dealer used are two large. Take a measuring ruler, and scribe a line with the known depth of the rouch opening onto the trim piece. Draw a line on that trim piece so you know where the edge of the rough opening is, after you close it tight to the opening. Then, with some sort of pattern, get smaller shank self tapers by taking one of the OEM ones to the hardware store to match it. Be sure to get non rusting self tappers. If your a tool guy at all, buy a impact driver, like Dewalt, it is truely one of those tools that come around every now and then that you say "wow" after use. The perfect application is this job, for that tool. Just sayin'

P.S. First, I'd clean up that old caulk and redo that, prior to re-attachment, like the other poster suggested.

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Old 09-05-2015, 01:29 PM   #13
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Slide seal

I found the same problem on my new 2013 Grey Wolf 28BH on arrival home from the dealer. The dealer repaired it with longer screws and so far it is holding well. I check it after every use of the slide out. Originally it appeared that there wasn't sufficient solid backing for the screws but after the repair it appears to be solid.
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Old 09-06-2015, 06:59 AM   #14
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Are you ABSOLUTELY sure that nothing is under the bed that would jam and cause this?

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Old 09-06-2015, 08:34 PM   #15
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Same issue in my 3170DS. Waiting on CE to hear from FR.

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Old 09-10-2015, 09:18 AM   #16
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I took the RV out this weekend. When the slide is out the gap closes. When I put the slide back in, the gap on the bottom opens back up.

It looks like maybe the top is pulling in more than the bottom causing the trim piece to angle out at the bottom.

I think I may need to reset the slide controllers so that it pulls in evenly.

The only way to get to the back side is to leave the slide partially in and reach around the edge of the entertainment center inside. Not easy!

I am still not sure if this piece's only purpose is to seal the gap or if there is some kind of function.

Hopefully a Forest River rep can educate me on this.
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Old 09-11-2015, 12:23 PM   #17
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It looks like when the RV was made they completely missed the wall when screwing in the slide mechanism. There isn't enough overlap to move the screws over, so I guess I am going to have to figure out a way to squeeze in something sturdy enough to screw into. Possible some angle iron or a 2X4.

The rep from Lippert was kind enough to send me a repair manual that will help when removing and reinstalling the slide bracket.

Here is a pic from inside, with the slide retracted.
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Old 09-12-2015, 12:43 AM   #18
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Boy, they missed it by a mile! Can you slide the outer portion of the seal retainer over to go through the wood? There should be more than enough of the rubber seal to compensate.I would use aluminum instead of angle iron or wood. If you can pull the outer seal retainer into proper position, make sure that it is lined up properly (which they didn't), and drill pilot holes through the outer screw holes through the wood. Then once that is done, use 1/4 or 1/2 inch aluminum bar, maybe 2 inches wide, clamp it in place so that it doesn't move with C-clamps or something that you can work around the rubber part of the slide seal, and then mark it to match the holes. Take it back off and carefully drill the marked spots. I would use threaded bolts and locking nuts with washers (thin) to then attach the seal flange and seal to the wood. Once you are finished, I would use Pro Seal (two part) to seal the outside. It remains flexible from -65 degrees to over 150 degrees, and costs about $25- $35. Google Pro Seal 8805 (or 8806) and use that instead of silicon weather caulking. Use the one that has one part in a can and the activator on the lid of the can. First, you clean off the old silicon caulk with a box cutter blade and acetone or naphtha until the surfaces are nice and clean. Get all of the old silicon off.
Then using masking tape, tape off the retainer flange and about 1/4 inch on the surface of the coach where the retainer butts against. Mix your Pro Seal on a piece of cardboard by combining the two parts and stirring together with a small screw driver. Start at the top and with the screw driver blade, apply the sealant as evenly as you can in between the masked off area. If the Pro Seal starts setting up, mix up a new batch (don't go overboard with the amount). Once you complete sealing, take a small jar with some water in it and mix a little dish soap in. Stir it up, and then dip your finger in, and smooth out your sealant. Let it sit for about 45 minutes and then remove your masking tape. You will have a professional, aircraft grade seal job that will withstand any temperature you will ever encounter and will never leak. You can do it! Good luck! You will impress yourself and have a good quality repair.
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Old 09-12-2015, 11:46 AM   #19
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Joshua ??

Originally Posted by JimOneil43 View Post
I'm really concerned about this being a problem with 3050S/3051S models, as we are planning a purchase of one probably in December. this an ongoing problem with this model? And is the factory doing anything regarding a product improvement to prevent it? Sometimes over-engineering something is much better than building junk.
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Old 09-13-2015, 07:36 PM   #20
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Just wondering if anyone from FR ever replied not a chance that the question was overlooked maybe just a private message was sent, I am wondering I'm sure there are a lot of FR owners interested as well as future buyer prospects

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