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Old 09-15-2016, 01:55 PM   #1
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Hot water bypass help

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I have attached a picture of the 2 valves related to my hot water heater. Which way should each valve be turned to bypass the water heater. I have opened water heater drain plug and attached city water. I have tried different combinations, perp and horz but water still flows from the water heater drain plug opening. I would appreciate any help that can be offered. Last year I ended up having to fill water heater with antifreeze.

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Old 09-15-2016, 02:02 PM   #2
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The Mind-Set on the valves is very straight-forward.

If the handle is in-line or parallel with the pipe, think "like a straight line" then it is OPEN.

If the handle is "across" the pipe (like a T or an L or a + plus-sign) then it is CLOSED.

Hope this makes it a little easier to remember ...

For NORMAL operation, CLOSE the bypass pipe and OPEN the inlet and outlet pipes.

For BYPASS - Winterizing - CLOSE the Inlet, Close the outlet, and OPEN the bypass.

In your picture, the one BYPASS is the one that has BLUE on bottom and RED on top. The cold INLET has blue-blue and the hot OUTLET has red-red.

Best Luck !!!
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Old 09-15-2016, 02:12 PM   #3
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It appears I do not have a valve to close the inlet to the water heater



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Old 09-15-2016, 02:12 PM   #4
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From your picture it looks to me like you are currently in the Normal mode with the water passing thru the water heater. So like Jeff said open the bypass valve blue red piping the handle should be in line with the pipe, and close both the red red and blue blue valves (the handle should be across the pipe and not in a straight line with the pipe.
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Old 09-15-2016, 02:13 PM   #5
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Here is an edit of your picture, clearly the hot valve is OPEN and the bypass valve is CLOSED.
The view of the cold valve is a little obscured by the air ducts below it.
( please forgive my poor mouse / whiteboard skills. )
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Old 09-15-2016, 02:14 PM   #6
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You said that you have two valves, but you actually have the conventional 3-valve setup.

Close the hot (red) and cold (blue) valves (handles perpendicular to line), and open the bypass (red one side, blue the other side) valve (handle parallel to piping). That bypasses the water heater. Then you can add antifreeze and drain the tank.

Here's how they should look.

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Old 09-15-2016, 02:20 PM   #7
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After feeling around I found the inlet valve handle laying under the heater duct( nice job forest river) .

Now I have to figure out a way to somehow squeeze my arms in the confined space to reattach.

Great and thanks for all the help from you guys.


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Old 09-15-2016, 02:24 PM   #8
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Guess I have to remove bottom panel
Again thanks for the help



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Old 09-15-2016, 03:25 PM   #9
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Sometimes you need Go-Go-Gadget arms in some of the places you have to get to in these RV's!

Good luck getting it all fixed and set.
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Old 09-15-2016, 05:24 PM   #10
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Consider adding something like a attwood access plate. My coach came with one one the bed frame to access the HW lines....
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Old 09-17-2016, 05:41 PM   #11
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[QUOTE=Frankie Z;1318228]After feeling around I found the inlet valve handle laying under the heater duct( nice job forest river) .

Now I have to figure out a way to somehow squeeze my arms in the confined space to reattach.

Yep, like it would have been hard to have all valve stems face the same way when they were installing the valves/lines. That makes it both visually and operationally easier to understand and operate the valves.
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Old 09-19-2016, 06:15 PM   #12
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Put the inspection covers back on with Velcro. That way you do not have to use the screws each time and access is much easier.




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Old 09-19-2016, 07:45 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandon 2 View Post
Put the inspection covers back on with Velcro. That way you do not have to use the screws each time and access is much easier.




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That's a good idea thanks


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Old 09-21-2016, 02:28 AM   #14
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The Velcro is a good idea, I'd just done it this weekend. I'd used some "industrial strength" Velcro I had on hand, but it's really more than is needed, the narrower standard product would have been fine, and come off a bit easier, and I just used some tabs, not a continuous run of Velcro around the entire opening.
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Old 09-21-2016, 08:34 AM   #15
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Won't be the case with everyone, but once I found out where they were by pulling the panel, I discovered I can open the door under the sink, pull out the drawer next to it and reach all three valves.
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Old 09-22-2016, 05:03 PM   #16
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Likewise:

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