View Poll Results: Is it normal for AC and Microwave to trip circuit breaker?
Yes, its just how it is. 43 57.33%
No, the dealer is full of it. 32 42.67%
Voters: 75. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 07-21-2015, 09:35 PM   #51
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Just saying what mine does never had problem with breaker unless running the three never with two but air is not starting up already running





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Old 07-21-2015, 09:38 PM   #52
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Modern 15K (Dometic Brisk 2) A/C pulls max of 13.5 amps. NEVER in my 45 years of RVing have I seen a rooftop 13.5 or 15 A/C that drew 18+, but could have missed something. I too have a 30A Sunseeker (2300) and also a 50A 5th wheel (Montana). Sunseeker usually has no problem with converter, A/C and Microwave, but all else needs to be off the electricity. H/W heater is sneaky as on my Sunseeker, E switch is only accessible from the outside cover, which I leave on and kill it by throwing the inside breaker. IT DOES NOT TURN OFF THE ELECTRICITY WHEN YOU SWITCH ON THE PROPANE. Has not yet happened with the this Sunseeker, but on prior 30A units I have thrown breakers with just A/C and Microwave and a poorly charged house battery - which I attribute to the converter working hard to recharge. You've gotten a lot of information, but not all of it is good.
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Old 07-21-2015, 09:45 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RubberNail View Post
Modern 15K (Dometic Brisk 2) A/C pulls max of 13.5 amps. NEVER in my 45 years of RVing have I seen a rooftop 13.5 or 15 A/C that drew 18+, but could have missed something. I too have a 30A Sunseeker (2300) and also a 50A 5th wheel (Montana). Sunseeker usually has no problem with converter, A/C and Microwave, but all else needs to be off the electricity. H/W heater is sneaky as on my Sunseeker, E switch is only accessible from the outside cover, which I leave on and kill it by throwing the inside breaker. IT DOES NOT TURN OFF THE ELECTRICITY WHEN YOU SWITCH ON THE PROPANE. Has not yet happened with the this Sunseeker, but on prior 30A units I have thrown breakers with just A/C and Microwave and a poorly charged house battery - which I attribute to the converter working hard to recharge. You've gotten a lot of information, but not all of it is good.
Modern 15k and 13.5k units will pull upwards of 18 amps upon start up, then settle in around 12 - 14 amps after running.
Coleman Mach a/c units will pull upwards of 30 amps to start!

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Old 07-21-2015, 10:09 PM   #54
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I have a 3010 with a 15000 BTU air conditioner. It does cause the shore power circuit breaker when you run the AC, microwave and have the electric hot water heater on. If the hot water heater and ac are on and you start the microwave the breaker trips. As stated above you have to manage your loads. Try switching the hot water heater to gas.
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Old 07-21-2015, 10:22 PM   #55
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As said, could have missed something. During past 2 years has been my misfortune to replace two 13.5 and one 15 unit with new Brisk 2 A/Cs which I purchased from discount suppliers. Looked at specs both times, and observed new 15k unit actually drew less current than older 13.5. Also note that new units start up fan first, and then bring on the compressor which drops the startup current draw. Of course, if you only have 105v or so, as I have encountered in some Canadian parks, amp draw will be more. I bet those Coleman Mach 30 amp loads play hell with the 20 amp breakers!

If anyone has any doubt about the A/C load rating, installation manuals are available on line with the rate load amperage show by model.

Much was also said about surge protectors, to which I add a yes. Have fried two washing machine/dry combos, one entertainment unit and one frig. All those occurred on 50A service, once at a park pedestal, and once on a downed home service line (short to neutral). Nothing else since in last 6 years post surge protectors.

I'm disconnecting from this thread, so no need to reply. Looks to me like several folks have already identified the problem and solution.
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Old 07-22-2015, 12:07 AM   #56
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I guess answer to this problem is to order your RV with a 50 amp service. Then you can have two A/Cs, microwave, and the coffee maker all at once.
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Old 07-22-2015, 01:09 AM   #57
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If you run frig on ac that's 4 amps min. Right there. If the wh cycles on ac that's too much already for a/ C and most microwaves. Our micro is 1000 watt with some sort of soft start and it is very gentle on start up load so I can get by w a/c and micro but my converter is in plugged in favor of solar so that saves big. Wish I had elec on the wh but I don't so no problem there
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Old 07-22-2015, 06:32 AM   #58
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specs for Dometic Brisk II which I have shows compressor amp draw, so fans are not included in the listed spec. I just replaced my unit and it draws about 18 with fan on high. The old unit was the same.
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Old 07-22-2015, 07:58 AM   #59
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Usually if the breaker trips its due to running any combination of 3 (ac / water heater / hair dryer / curling iron / microwave / Kuerig Coffee Maker). That has been our experience with our 27RLWS. Also of note is the drop of voltage at most campgrounds once a lot of power is being drawn. It is common to see drops below 105 volts, which everyone knows by now means higher current. One of the main reasons to have a good surge protector. I installed the progressive unit with remote display and I never guess about the electric....

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Old 07-22-2015, 12:02 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by ATVer View Post
You should be able to use both together no problem but nothing much else. If the water heater kicks on electric or other large load like a coffee maker or maybe even the refrigerator if you have the large 4 door option it will likely trip. Also if you have the optional larger 15K A/C you may have more issues. Some people have converted over to 50 amp service to resolve the issues.
What is involved in converting a 30Amp system to 50Amp? And what is the cost?
Thanks
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