View Poll Results: Is it normal for AC and Microwave to trip circuit breaker?
Yes, its just how it is. 43 57.33%
No, the dealer is full of it. 32 42.67%
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Old 07-22-2015, 12:55 PM   #61
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I think converting to 50 amp from 30, would be a big job. Very expensive and beyond the skill level of many so called RV techs. I have looked at our coach and I COULD DO IT, but WOULD NOT. Splitting some of he breakers off to a separate 20 amp cord is doable, but not worth doing for our needs.
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Old 07-22-2015, 01:26 PM   #62
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Not true on mine. They replaced my microwave as it turned on by itself. It was in a recall. Never tripped breaker.


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Old 07-22-2015, 01:43 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by JimOneil43 View Post
What is involved in converting a 30Amp system to 50Amp? And what is the cost?
Thanks
New cord, new plug, new converter and electric panel and new heavier wire between the plug and converter / panel. Everything else would be ok as long as you could split off the individual circuits at the panel. If they split the circuits in the wall or overhead you could have a major problem locating the wiring.

This could be done by a good electrician or a good RV tech but it would not be cheap to do! I don't think it would be worth it.

This is off the top of my head, may be more to do.

Jim
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Old 07-22-2015, 05:38 PM   #64
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Curious about this myself.
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Old 07-22-2015, 09:29 PM   #65
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The ease of converting from 30 amp to 50 amp is not terribly bad but the level of difficulty depends on the type of load center that you have. Most motorhomes have the WFCO WF-8930/50. This does not have the built-in converter. I have the WF-8930 in my coach which is the 30 amp rated load center. It is nearly identical to the WF-8950 which has the additional buss for the other half of the load center. I don't think you will be able to just buy the buss to change the 8930 to an 8950 (though the thought crossed my mind) but buying a 8950 and carcass either the current 8930 or the new 8950 to get the 50 amp of service. Then add the additional #10 conductor to the shore cord as well as replacing the shore cord to support the 50 amp.
Now with 2) 25 amp busses, the load would have to be shuffled around so that each bus is carrying some balance (A/C on one 25 amp buss and microwave and elec. WH on the other 25 amp). Not a project for the average laymen but do-able for someone that knows load centers and load distribution.

Now, similar is possible for the TT or other RV units that come with the built-in converter: WFCO WF-87-- series (30 amp load center) but would be quite expensive because again, you can't just by a buss to change the WF-87-- to a WF-99-- ( the 50 amp load center) so basically you would have to purchase a WF-99-- which includes the converter.
OR just upgrade to another camper
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Old 07-24-2015, 11:18 AM   #66
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ANOTHER PLUG FOR SOLAR. Just looked at our system again. AND for those fighting the 30 amp or Generator's ability to carry both the AC and the Micro without blowing something, many times your problem is probably that you have something else running. The power converter can use 30 amps if the batteries are low and the water heater can use as much as 10 or 11 amps. So the Microwave while air conditioning problem is solved for most of us, if the WH electric is turned off and like us, the converter is UNPLUGGED unless in a pinch we need it, as the solar keeps out batteries topped off daily. So the solar helps out even if you are on a hook up, by freeing up amperage demand to cure the A/C and microwave.
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Old 07-24-2015, 11:48 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom48 View Post
The power converter can use 30 amps if the batteries are low and the water heater can use as much as 10 or 11 amps.
Tom, just to make sure you are not confusing AC amps and DC amps. The converter takes input of 120 volt AC and converts it to 12 volt DC output. The converters are rated like 45, 55, 65 etc, of amps....but this is DC output amps.........and not AC amps.

This may help:

RV Converters and Amp Draw - RV Information (RV Maintenance)

Also, most of the current Suburban electric water heater elements draw 12 amps on 120 volt AC....and the Atwoods are similar.

Watts = volts X amps
1440 watts = 120 volts X 12 amps or 1440 watts/120 volts = 12 amps.

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Old 07-24-2015, 12:40 PM   #68
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Tom, just to make sure you are not confusing AC amps and DC amps. The converter takes input of 120 volt AC and converts it to 12 volt DC output. The converters are rated like 45, 55, 65 etc, of amps....but this is DC output amps.........and not AC amps.

This may help:

RV Converters and Amp Draw - RV Information (RV Maintenance)

Also, most of the current Suburban electric water heater elements draw 12 amps on 120 volt AC....and the Atwoods are similar.

Watts = volts X amps
1440 watts = 120 volts X 12 amps or 1440 watts/120 volts = 12 amps.

Thank you. That seemed so wrong when I read it on the Progressive Dynamic site and I should have re-read it then. Their 30amp charger lists max IN RUSH amperage as 32 amps. That would only be about 4 to 6 amps 120 usage after allowing for internal loss and a bit more if the voltage is low. But if you have a bigger converter it would be more too.

So that leaves us with start up amperage on the A/C near 20 and the microwave at around 10 or 12 amps and so the WH at 10 or 11 amps or the converter at 4 or 5 amps either one or both and there goes the breaker.

If my memory serves me when voltage goes down amperage draw increases and that is why motor get hot on low voltage and burn up etc. So spring for the $15 plug in A/C volt meter and watch your line voltage in these often underbuilt/overloaded park systems or marginal generator systems.

SAME DIFFERENCE in the context, but then you for reminding me to reread my sources and proof read my work better. Thanks TOM
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Old 07-24-2015, 04:20 PM   #69
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I would like to see a wiring diagram for a converter. I have a Parallax Power Supply model 7155. If I understand right it will supply 55 DC volts amperage, hence the "55". Yet the main DC fuses are 30 amp fuses? From what I have read it draws 30 amps for the converter to operate but it works as a tridkle charger charging at a 3 to 5 amp rate. I don't see a 110 volt AC breaker so how much 110 VAC amperage does it draw and where is the protection (breaker) for the converter itself? I see the 30 amp main 110 VAC breaker and individual breakers such as air, water hrater, and GFI receptacles
(2 of them) and micro wave. That takes up all 5 slots. I also don't see any fuses marked for the converter output.

Am I reading the panel wrong, are the two 30 amp 12 VDC fuses for the output of the converter? That would make sense, but if that is the case it is not a trickle charger as many here have stated. Still don't see any breaker for the AC supply though.

I know I am getting up in years and am becoming brain dead but even so I am missing something.

Jim
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Old 07-24-2015, 04:30 PM   #70
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I can also run the Ac and Microwave. I have the refrig on gas and water heater also. Later RJd
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