View Poll Results: Is it normal for AC and Microwave to trip circuit breaker?
Yes, its just how it is. 43 57.33%
No, the dealer is full of it. 32 42.67%
Voters: 75. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 07-24-2015, 04:31 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by Tom48 View Post
Thank you. That seemed so wrong when I read it on the Progressive Dynamic site and I should have re-read it then. Their 30amp charger lists max IN RUSH amperage as 32 amps. That would only be about 4 to 6 amps 120 usage after allowing for internal loss and a bit more if the voltage is low. But if you have a bigger converter it would be more too.

So that leaves us with start up amperage on the A/C near 20 and the microwave at around 10 or 12 amps and so the WH at 10 or 11 amps or the converter at 4 or 5 amps either one or both and there goes the breaker.

If my memory serves me when voltage goes down amperage draw increases and that is why motor get hot on low voltage and burn up etc. So spring for the $15 plug in A/C volt meter and watch your line voltage in these often underbuilt/overloaded park systems or marginal generator systems.

SAME DIFFERENCE in the context, but then you for reminding me to reread my sources and proof read my work better. Thanks TOM
Tom,

You may know this but thought I would mention this for those that don't. As a general rule of thumb start up amperage is 2X the running (operating) amperage. Some things actually may run much higher but that is a good starting place. I would think most RV manufactures try to avoid items that do surge much higher than that because of the probllems they can cause.

Jim
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Old 07-24-2015, 04:34 PM   #72
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I can also run the Ac and Microwave. I have the refrig on gas and water heater also. Later RJd
How big is your generator? I have a 3000 watt and think that would really be pushing the limit. Especially if the AC compressor kicked in while the microwave was running.

Jim
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Old 07-24-2015, 04:54 PM   #73
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Have you considered that in a 50 amp RV service you have two 50 amp phases going into the fuse box for a total of 100 amp total output or 12,000 watts? There is 240v coming in the box but RVs only use 120v to function. If you look at the 50 amp cable you can see the wires are 6 gauge vs 10 gauge wires in a 30 amp cable. It's like the difference between a garden hose and a fire hose.
There is as much power in my 50 amp RV as my 100 amp home.

Some reading about 50 amp service.
Well, what is 50 amp service?
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Old 07-24-2015, 05:12 PM   #74
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OLD TOOL
I looked at the Parallax Power Supply model 7155 specs and best I can see it claims to have a MAX charging capacity of 55 amps. No MOST internal Charger/Converters are not just trickle chargers. Most push a high charge rate til the battery is at about 80%. Are they all different, yes a bit I am sure. Not and engineer so I do not know how they reconcile 55 charge and 30 amp internal fuses??? In their web sight they seem defensive about not being Smart Chargers and that suggests to me they may be one size fits all OEM minimum quality hardware. I like the mentality of Smart Chargers and have that on my solar so I do not worry about my factory one size fits all 30 amp charger/converter.

I am not sure how many units are wired. Mine is in a nice eye level box and many seem to be under the sink or under the night stand and places that my crappy knees and back do not volunteer to work. My controller plugs in to an outlet on the wall in its compartment 6 inches away and since I went solar, spends only enough time in use so I can assure that it still works in case I pull my solar when we sell. Many are hard wired and in the case of one other solar install I have worked with lately, it is the sole unit on one breaker and we turn that breaker off and let 400 watts of solar and a very expensive MPPT controller do the job.
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Old 07-24-2015, 05:22 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by oldtool2 View Post
How big is your generator? I have a 3000 watt and think that would really be pushing the limit. Especially if the AC compressor kicked in while the microwave was running.

Jim
I agree. WE have a 4000 watt Onan and keep it clean as above so it will run both but even then, I keep my eye on house voltage so it is not pulled down too low for too long and start overheating and burning things up.
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Old 07-24-2015, 08:42 PM   #76
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...
There is as much power in my 50 amp RV as my 100 amp home.
Does your house only have one phase going to it ( 120 volts AC)? If so that is very rare here in North America.
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Old 07-24-2015, 09:35 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by funfinder5 View Post
Does your house only have one phase going to it ( 120 volts AC)? If so that is very rare here in North America.
My home has 240v, 100 amp service. I'll correct myself to say that at 240v X 100 amp is 24,000 watts of power or twice of my 50 amp RV.

30 amp RVs have single phase of 30 amp with 3,600 watts of power.
50 amp RVs have two phases of 50 amps with 12,000 watts of power.
My point is 30 to 50 amp upgrades in RVs greatly increases the available power to run things.
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Old 07-24-2015, 10:13 PM   #78
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DoctorT68, you could install a Volt/Amp meter in line right before the main cable enters the control panel, this way you can always monitor the load on your system and learn quickly how to balance power usage.
Amazon.com: DROK® Digital Current Voltage Multimeter AC 100-300V 100A Voltage Amperage Meter, AC Volt Amp Testing Gauge Power Monitor LCD Dual Display Voltage Measuring Current Sensing Resistors with Current Transformer CT: Home Improvement

Edit: The link above is only an example.
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Old 07-25-2015, 10:50 AM   #79
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I agree. WE have a 4000 watt Onan and keep it clean as above so it will run both but even then, I keep my eye on house voltage so it is not pulled down too low for too long and start overheating and burning things up.
OK, with a 4000 watt generator I can see running an AC and microwave together might be OK..

My Honda EU3000is generator has a "30" amp plug rated at 23.4 amps. I figure my 13,500 btu AC unit draws about 12 running amps, 22 -24 start up amps (when the compressor kicks in). I think my microwave is an 800 watt unit so it would draw 9.5 - 10 running amps, start up amps is about the same. Hum, lets see, 24 + 10 = 34 amps. I don't think that is going to work to well. Even a 4000 watt generator, 4000 / 120 = 33.3 amps. Even that is very close if they are running together.

However because a microwave that we use in a trailer are very efficient. 800 / 900 watt MW's normally only draw 10 to 10.5 amps so a 4000 watt generator even though it is really pushing it might be able to do it. Now if you have a 15,000 btu AC unit all bets are off!

As you can see I really doubt if my 3000 watt generator would handle both on start up. I will try it someday but expect to have to reset the generators breaker!

Jim
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Old 07-25-2015, 11:04 AM   #80
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OLD TOOL
I looked at the Parallax Power Supply model 7155 specs and best I can see it claims to have a MAX charging capacity of 55 amps. No MOST internal Charger/Converters are not just trickle chargers. Most push a high charge rate til the battery is at about 80%. Are they all different, yes a bit I am sure. Not and engineer so I do not know how they reconcile 55 charge and 30 amp internal fuses??? In their web sight they seem defensive about not being Smart Chargers and that suggests to me they may be one size fits all OEM minimum quality hardware. I like the mentality of Smart Chargers and have that on my solar so I do not worry about my factory one size fits all 30 amp charger/converter.

I am not sure how many units are wired. Mine is in a nice eye level box and many seem to be under the sink or under the night stand and places that my crappy knees and back do not volunteer to work. My controller plugs in to an outlet on the wall in its compartment 6 inches away and since I went solar, spends only enough time in use so I can assure that it still works in case I pull my solar when we sell. Many are hard wired and in the case of one other solar install I have worked with lately, it is the sole unit on one breaker and we turn that breaker off and let 400 watts of solar and a very expensive MPPT controller do the job.
If I add up the fuses in my converter I get 120 amps. More than twice the 55 amp rating of the converter. That is not taking in consideration the 30 amp 12 volt converter (charger) or the 110 VAC load. I am sure the 12 VDC fuses are rated high but even so this makes no sense to me. Going to send them an e-mail and will post here what they tell me.

Jim
This is what I wrote to them. Hopefully I will get the answers needed.


"I have a few questions about the 77155 power converter.
1. How many amps does the 110 VAC charger draw?
2. Is the charger protected by a breaker or fuse, and if so where is it located?
3. How many amps is the output of the 12 VDC charger?
4. Is the charging output protected by the 30 amp fuses located at the top of the 12 VDC section of the panel?
I do see an inline 30 amp fuse about a foot from the battery and assume it is to protect the charger, correct?

I would greatly appreciate answers to these question and any other info you think might come in handy.
Thank you."

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