I just tbought a 2004 3100 LE Sunseeker. This is my first real rv. Got it used with no manuals so im learning everything.
First- how do i get my fridge to come on I pressed the on button with it plugged in and it didnt seem to get cold. The light above fridge near check light doesnt work either. How can I tell if it is working
Second- where is the panel box in the rig.
I was running AC and left it on for a could hours and it just shut off. Not sure why because it has been working fine but it was the first time I had plugged it in to my 30AMp plug at my house. not sure why it cut off because the breaker on the box was fine.
Third- Is it ok to leave the lp gas turned on. I have not tried the Hw heater or the fridge with the gas. Does the gas ignite itself??
Fianlly where can I find a manuals on line to learn more about this
Make sure the fridge is plugged in. There should be removable panel on the outside of the camper. Remove that, and there should be receptacle with the fridge plugged into that.
The fridge can take up to 24 hours to cool down.
A model of your fridge posted here will help members help you with your problem. That should be posted on the left or right wall on the inside of your fridge.
Again, with the water heater, we would need a model number, and ideally a photo of the outside part of the water heater.
As far as the AC, 1st make sure the house breaker has not thrown. If that is OK, then there should be a power center, probably near the floor, and possible under the fridge. Check the breakers in that.
You can get many of the manuals needed by going to the appliance websites, finding your model, and downloading the operational instructions.
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fmf421, welcome to the forum.
We need a bit of information to help you out.
What chassis do you have?
Ford E-350, E-450?
Chevrolet?
Power Center - I have a 2006 Sunseeker 3100 with the Ford E-450 chassis and the power center is in the back of the coach in the bedroom, below the right side of the bed. If it is there pull the cover down and you will see the circuit breakers and 12v fuses.
Just to make sure, did you happen to plug the cord into a 220v outlet? That has happened to a couple of people on the forum recently, with expensive results. Hope not.
LP gas, I turn mine off between trips and only turn on right before we leave. I don't want to lose any to a leak (none so far).
Don't try the water heater until you have filled and "burped" it by lifting the relief valve lever and letting it reseat. You can get to that by removing the outside cover from the water heater. Make sure the water heater is not bypassed, there might be a valve on the inlet line, make sure it is lined up to let water in.
Refrigerator - Look inside the door frame for the nameplate sticker. Like mtnguy said with a make and model you can use the google to locate most of the manuals. I posted a set for my 2006 the other day here and they might help:
Do you have a battery installed for the coach (not the chassis starting battery)? This would be in a separate compartment. You need good 12v either from the battery or the converter (need 110v to get that) for the fridge to operate on LP gas. Do you have a battery disconnect switch and is it turned on? Mine is located just inside the door at the base of the cabinet. Without 110v plugged in and the switch off I do not have 12v power to anything except the slideout.
AC issuse was a tripped breaker under bed. Any idea why it tripped. Only had ac on Med plugging into 30AMP. Nothing else was even on??
2004 Sunseeker 3100LE
E450 Chassis
Fridge is a Dometic Americana
HW heater not sure could not find name
thanks for the info. i will get the namw of the fridge and post later. I installed a 30AMP plug to my preaker box on my barn so It should be 200v.
I will try to play with this today some and post more questions.
(vasnipe)Yes there are 2 batt in compartment on pass rear of rig. I have on off key at steps on cabinet base when u come in. there are 2 aswitches there also. 1 is electric step and I have no idea what other one does. Please advise I anyone knows.
I will look for panel box later.
Also that water heater birping thing thats sound over my head. Step by step directions would be great when ever anyone has time and also what to do when your done with the trip to drain the water heater. Then I guess you would have to go throught the birping process again for next trip.
OK, here we go with filling the water heater and "burping" it with the relief valve to ensure it is full.
1) Connect water hose to the coach. Do not turn on yet.
2) Locate your water heater, mine is under the galley sink.
1st photo #4096 is my water heater located under the galley sink.
3) Make sure the bypass valve (if installed) is aligned to let water into the water heater. (Normally used to bypass the water heater when winterizing the coach, but that's another topic).
2nd photo #4092 shows bypass valve aligned to let water into the water heater.
4) Turn the latch and line it up with the slot in the door, lift and remove the water heater cover/door and set aside nearby.
3rd photo #4074 is the water heater door with latch
4th photo #4077 is latch aligned and lifting door
5) Locate the relief valve, should be at the top. Lift the lever, it should latch open.
5th photo is water heater with door removed. #4079
6th photo #4080 shows lifting the handle
7th photo #4081 shows the handle lifted.
8th photo #4085 shows the anode rod partially removed and the tank dry.
6) I started with my water heater anode rod removed and the tank dry. Make sure the anode rod is installed (with a layer of teflon tape on the threads) and tightened "snug". My socket is a 1/2" drive 1 and 1/16th inch that I bought at Northern Tool. Do NOT overtighten or "gorilla" the rod, you might have a hard time removing it at a later date, as happened to another forum member earlier this spring.
9th photo #4086 is the 1 1/16" socket
10th photo #4089 is the rod installed and snugged in place.
7) Turn the water hose on and fill the water heater until water starts to come out of the relief valve. When that happens push on the valve lever and it should snap shut. Water will drip for a few seconds and then stop. That is normal. Your water heater is now full and ready for you to turn it on and heat water for dishes, showers, etc.
11th photo #4093 shows water coming out of relief valve.
12th photo #4101 shows water coming out of water heater from the anode rod.
Now, you have just returned from a trip or you're getting ready to winterize the coach and want to drain the water heater. Reverse the fill process.
1) Bypass the water heater
2) Remove the water heater door
3) Lift the relief valve lever
4) Loosen and remove the anode rod/plug. Stand to the side as you loosen and start to back it out so you won't get too wet. When the water stops draining put the rod loosely in a thread or two and close the relief valve.
wow thats great Thanks for the info. Im asuming the water heater will refill itself with the bypass valve open from the fresh water tank.
That helped out a bunch.
Can you go through the steps to get the LP fired up, havnt even tried it yet. Does it ignite itself? And what is the other switch at base of sink by entry step
Correct, once the bypass valve is lined up it will allow water either from the city connection (hose) or the fresh water tank via the pump when there is water in the tank and the pump is turned on.
To light on LP, and I'm guessing here that you have the electric igniter, that is the red "spark plug looking" wire on the right side of mine.
1) Turn on your LP gas, open the valve all the way and close it just a fraction of a turn. That way you don't "backseat" the valve and risk it sticking in the open position. Reasoning here is that if the valve is "backseated" or stuck open and you grab it you might assume it is already closed. Not good.
Anyway, once the valve is open go into the coach and turn on a burner on your stove and light it. Once lit for a minute or so you can turn it off. This gets any air out of the line and helps ensure there is gas available for the hot water heater and refrigerator.
2) Go to your control panel and turn the water heater switch to "on".
That sets up the ignition sequence where the control board opens the gas solenoid valve to let gas through and then generates spark to ignite the gas. You should hear a series of "snap, snap, snap" and then the sound of the gas igniting. If it does not ignite on the first try it will try again. If no ignition turn the switch off for a few seconds. Turn on again and try again.
Knock on wood, I have never had to cycle the startup more than once.
And clear as mud here it is from the Suburban Water Heater Service Manual:
Direct Spark lgnition - Read all safety information provided. Turn off all electrical power to the appliance. Turn off gas supply and wait 5 minutes for gas to clear the area. Turn on gas and electrical supply to the appliance. Turn switch to "ON" position, there will be a 15-second purge
before spark. If lockout occurs before main burner lights, turn switch to "OFF" position, wait 5 seconds and turn switch to "ON" position. This will restart the ignition cycle again. On the initial startup, it may require several ignition cycles to purge all the air from the gas lines.
The second switch by the door is probably for your outside door/porch light or as is sometimes called around the forum here, the "scare light". There should be a light above your entrance door that should turn on when the switch is turned on, if it does not, check the bulb to see if it is blown or if you might have other problems.
Here is a photo of my inside the door setup. I labeled them so mama-san and daughter would know which was which.
And here is the Suburban water heater manual. (Thanks to herk or whoever posted it originally, I saved it on my 'puter for future reference)
Lots of good information, but if you have a question, ask.
Someone on the board will provide an answer.
Great instructions i will give it a shot some time today. Unfortunitly nothing is labeled in my rig but it will soon be. I have 2 red switches on the side of fridge below control panel, one is pump and the other is HW heater. Is that corrrect? On the panel it just show lp and water tank volumes. I think the switches are red. Other than that there are no thoers switches that I can find.
Is there a manual switch for the HW heater from gas to electric somewhere? I heard you have to be care full if you us ethe electric with HW heater. I want to find it soem I am familure.
I wish everithing was labeled and all together on one main control panel like the newer rv are now.
Oh yea, do these rigs have a auto switch from Lp to electric? Like when i travel the fridge goes from gas to lp or vise versa. Or do you have to switch the buttons on top of fridge
The fridge will change fom gas to electric when you plug 110v up. It will also change from electric to gas when you pull the plug. Just be sure to have it in auto or automatic mode.
Hot water heater will operate gas and electric all by itself. Just make sure you have water in the heater prior to turning the switch to on. If there is no water in the tank the electric element will burn out very quickly and cause problems. There are entire threads here about just that problem. If you break camp to move or go home turn the hot water heater off, it will keep water pretty hot for a days travels and will recover fairly quickly when you set up and turn on again.
man your good! Let meknow if your in GA anytime soon.
I got the HW heater working! Thanks for the tutorial! What is the on off switch for on the outside in the HW heater compartment???
Got fridge plugging in waiting to see if its going to work. The light doesnt work on top of fridge where it says on off & gas. so not sure what the deal is.
What is the valve for under bed for fresh water tank. Is that adrain valve or the valve I open up when I hook water up to outside to filol the tank.
and where is the fresh water drain valve.
I know there the Black and grey drain valse are but how do you drain the Galley?? On the newer Rv ive used i dont recall a galley drain. Let meknow about this.
Please I hope this isnt bothering you im just trying to learn and your really helpful.
Mike, congratulations on getting the water heater to start up.
Water heater switch - The switch is there to turn power on and off to the electric element. If it is working it will help out. Try to remember not to turn that on with no water in the tank, bad ju-ju happens...
What model refrigerator do you have? There should be a nameplate/sticker inside the door with model/serial number. See if you can find that nameplate and post a picture. Then we can look for the manual for the beast and see what is going on.
Or you can look here on the Dometic site Operation & Installation Manuals - Dometic
Or google it, the Dometic site did not have my RM2652 listed, skipped over it, but "the google" found the manual and parts manual on other sites. For free... I saved them on my computer for reference, you never know when Mr Murphy will jump up and try to bite...
"What is the valve for under bed for fresh water tank. Is that a drain valve or the valve I open up when I hook water up to outside to fill the tank. and where is the fresh water drain valve."
That valve beside the tank under the bed is the drain valve, that is all it does. I would drain the tank and sanitize it and the fresh water system just for general purposes. Here is a link to a thread on the forum with suggestions as to how to do that, herk7769 posted a simple way to that there. http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ion-22426.html
To fill the tank pop the cover and use your fresh water hose to fill, you might have to play with how fast the water flows to keep it from blowing out and soaking you. I took an old twist type garden nozzle and put a length of tubing on it that fits nicely down the fill line and stays put if I turn the water on just right. When I fill my tank I lift the bed up and watch the level rise, For normal travel to campgrounds with hookups I keep just above 1/3 tank on board. That way if we need to rinse a cup or wash hands for lunch I just turn the pump on and take care of business. Also reduces the excess weight I carry around. If you go camping without hookups that changes things, full tank, etc.
"I know where the Black and grey drain valves are but how do you drain the Galley??"
On my unit the galley tank is on the starboard (passenger) side aft of the rear wheels and just before the battery compartment. You kind of have to stand on your head or squat down real low to see the tank and drain valve. When I dump tanks that is the last one I pull. I dump the Black, then the Grey, then the Galley tank.
You should also see 2 little plastic pipe stubs sticking down around there with plugs installed. Those are the hot and cold water low point drains, you use those to drain water out of the lines when you winterize the coach. Just make sure you have the faucets open to let air into the lines and the water out.
Not bothering at all, I had a lot of help learning the RV life and enjoy helping out. Helps that I grew up with RVs in the family and worked as a lot rat/service tech at a dealership when I was in high school...
Fresh water Fill:: can I just use the H20 line on the out side of RV nest to the other H20 for full hook up? I thought thats why there is 2 next to each other??
Also I got the fridge to work with electric plug in. I just unplugged the power turned the gas on ans pressed the buttonon fridge that indicates gas.
Is that what you have to do. Or will it switch auto when I unplug.
The switch says depress for gas and im asssuming you press it when your on electric. Please advise
The fridge is a Dometic Americana. I will have to get the model number later
Fresh water Fill: can I just use the H20 line on the out side of RV next to the other H20 for full hook up?
- Do you have one or two hose connections on the side of the coach?
If you have two, one will be for the city water hose connection and the other would most likely be for a black tank flush system. Which is which? I dunno, without looking and tracing lines.
If you have only one hose connection that would be for the city connection.
My tank fill is above and behind the city connection, in fact it is above the storage compartment door.
Excellent news on the fridge.
Also I got the fridge to work with electric plug in. I just unplugged the power turned the gas on and pressed the button on fridge that indicates gas. Is that what you have to do. Or will it switch auto when I unplug.
- With the power switch on and the gas button pushed to where it is in the "lower" position it should be set for electric and gas operation; automatically switching between them to electric if 110v is available and to gas when 110v is pulled. You can also switch to gas only mode with the gas switch pushed and released to the "upper" position.
Here is a photo of my fridge "control panel" in the off position.
If I just open the valve under the bed will it auto drain somewhere on ground or does it drain into a tank??
My Fridge is a RM2652 It has 2 buttons
On / OFF with an AUTO light above
And a switch That says GAS I think you depress it for gas only.
The problem is the light will not work for the auto or check. It must be broke on the panel.
The fridge works when Plugged up to electric.
I cant seem to get it to work on gas.
I read the manual and I need to trouble shoot to make sure the flame is igniting and all that. Where is the flame and how do I check that. I will be checking fuses also on the outside fridge panel
When you drain your fresh water tank it will drain out on the ground.
On your fridge we need to find out which way the button needs to be for auto and then you will be covered either way.
Can you light the burners on your stove for a few minutes? That will help work out any air in the gas line. After that I would go back and try the fridge again. If you unhook the power from the rv you should be able to hear the burner on the fridge kick in. If you dont get it, when I get home I can tell you which way the button has to be for auto. Off the top of my head the one one the left is your power and it has to be in, the one on the right should be auto/gas only and it should also be in for auto.
Linear Mode
