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Old 11-16-2014, 02:38 PM   #71
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I love this!! I wish this is something I could do, but I don't have the knowledge or supplies! Want to come visit Michigan?
It was not hard. The instructions that came with it stated using the included fishing wire to get the securing bolts installed but I read some others found it easier to just remove the bumper and I agree 100%. It might seem a huge project to remove the bumper but it's not bad at all. In fact it gave me a chance to scour the rust that was starting to form on spots on the bumper. I treated those areas with rust proofing.

You only need a 1/2" drill bit to cut a new forward mounting hole. It takes maybe 1-1/2 hour without help to do this mod.

Bobby
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Old 09-02-2015, 10:28 PM   #72
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Another sink mod. Replaced a Price Fister kitchen sink faucet in the house when could not find a proper O ring to stop the sprayer from leaking.
DW purchased a faucet filter from Pur. Well guess what, would not fit the plastic kitchen faucet. Remembered the Price Fister. Capped the sprayer connection, drilled a center hole in the counter for the capped sprayer connection, installed the Price Fister and installed the filter.
The water pump will just barley pump thru the second filter. Hoping to filter campground water to reduce the amount of water carried.
When all said and done, I think it turned out well.
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Old 09-03-2015, 10:17 AM   #73
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Bgilly,


Sweet install.......
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Old 09-03-2015, 10:37 AM   #74
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Bgilly,


Sweet install.......
Gosh, that seems so long ago but it hasn't even been a year yet. I have used it plenty and love it.
No issues with bikes up front and I really like putting a hitch step to wash/wax the front of the coach.
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Old 09-23-2015, 06:36 PM   #75
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Reinforced the drawer bottoms and built a header brace to support the cabinet below the sink, it was sagging a bit (lots a room to work there, may do the volt meter mod), added a led light in the cab area..... built a little console between the seats to have a samwich and a pop on the road... ordered a cooktop cover for the dometic three burner... I will let ya know..
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Old 09-24-2015, 07:11 AM   #76
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Reinforced the drawer bottoms and built a header brace to support the cabinet below the sink, it was sagging a bit (lots a room to work there, may do the volt meter mod), added a led light in the cab area..... built a little console between the seats to have a samwich and a pop on the road... ordered a cooktop cover for the dometic three burner... I will let ya know..

What did you do to reinforce the drawer bottoms? I have a couple that are sagging and need reinforcement.


2012 Forest River Sunseeker 2300 Chevy
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Old 09-24-2015, 01:26 PM   #77
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What did you do to reinforce the drawer bottoms? I have a couple that are sagging and need reinforcement.


2012 Forest River Sunseeker 2300 Chevy
I'd like to know this, too!

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Old 09-24-2015, 02:56 PM   #78
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So ya wanta to see ma drawars huh?


Look under my album labeled drawers. The popular wood sticks are from Hom Dep at a cost of about 2 bucks each. Cut a bunch at 45 on each end and wood glue them. You could just cut rectangle pucks for each corner, but hey that's the easy way....The intent is to increase the capacity and stabilize the drawer bottom. In reality you are only increasing the thrust (weight in drawer) load capacity by the cumulative contact length of the two 45 sides (no I don't want to do the math right now). This mod began as I had the bottom plate of the drawer under the frig had wiggled out of the (routed) channel (prob due to weight) across the back. The mod keeps the drawer bottom plate from moving at all. I considered running a stick down each side to create a picture frame, but if I ever needed to service it the glue could leave me a mess on the drawer sides. I did not glue the drawer bottm in the channel for the same servicing reasons. And use the good stuff, I like Titebond II premium wood glue.


I did get the pin nailer out but all of the nails I had were too long, could not see a HD run that afternoon. The pin nailer would really make the math hard, can someone run a CAD calc for us?


The thickness of the wood will not exceed the lip thus no hang up problems.
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Old 09-24-2015, 03:45 PM   #79
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Forgot to tell you that the drawer pics are in my albums. Also there are pics for the mini header to support the bottom plate under the kitchen cabinet. There are four pieces to this mod; the bottom plate, two up rights (one of the four pics needs to be rotated to see correctly), and a cross bar across the top of the brace. For this mod I used some left over hickory from a cabinet build, so no it will not buckle. This was a most needed mod for us as it felt spongy to me when I went for the frothy drink apparatus. I think I could load the cabinet with 100 lbs of concrete now. If I had not gotten tired of standing on my head I would have had built a twin header... Yea, over kill, but hey "itshowiam".


Last, there is a console step made from left over decking that I got a cloth box with a lid from Hobby Lobby to keep our electrical gear in that slides under the step, and made a serving tray for the top of the step (for my samwich & pop). The front and rear perimeter (lips) of the tray are dropped about 1/8 to prevent for and aft movement, and now back to our originals tory....the scrap perimeter from the tray started the drawer mod (same wood)....


So I went Hom Dep to get some more popular sticks, but did not think of the pin nailer till I got home. Hence nail free..... I wasn't going for another jeep ride that day.....


(side note: this probably violates the header "quick reply")
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Old 09-24-2015, 10:53 PM   #80
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What did you do to reinforce the drawer bottoms? I have a couple that are sagging and need reinforcement.


2012 Forest River Sunseeker 2300 Chevy
I have found the free five gallon paint stir sticks you can get for free from Homedepot or Lowes work great. I attach them with number 6 flat head screws.
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