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Old 06-23-2015, 07:39 PM   #21
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Quite a debate on different view points from Sythetic to conventional oils.. Non the less that's everyone for all the information and I believe through it all I got what I was looking for. Change my oil at the end of the season..

Thanks everyone...
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Old 06-23-2015, 08:23 PM   #22
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Blackstone Labs
Motor Check Oil Analysis Testing Clinic | Oil Sample Test Kits
Testing Kits | Titan Laboratories | Oil, Coolant & Diesel Fuel Testing


There are lots more of these, but that was just a quick search for "oil sample test kits". I have not done business with any of these guys but they should all be able to do it well for about $25 or so. Just one sample at the end of one of your normal change cycles should tell you all you need to know. Along with a breakdown of what all your oil has in it. (water, zinc, lead, other metal particulates) they should be able to tell you how that compares to typical oil use and what your uniqueness is (if anything). We used Mobile Labs and Valvoline for some tests, but I don't think they do it commercially. Amsoil does, but I would not recommend them for any unbiased testing. (PLEASE, Amsoil is ok oil, but they are filled with Madison avenue, pyramid scheme empty suits.) In any case you probably want unbiased testing.


It sounds like you take great care of the coach (probably over the top ) but if it's affordable for you, it sure can't hurt. (BTW, Motorcraft filters have always been rated highly.)


Best..
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Old 06-23-2015, 10:22 PM   #23
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Understood.


I think I remember seeing this demonstration on TV It was for a "silicone" based product called "Duralube" or something like that? There were several silicone based products on the market a few years ago. All were garbage and several were sued by the FTC. (and some people lost their engine warranties due to it.) Even Dupont (silicone inventor and manufacture) said several times "We DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS IS IN internal combustion engines." But not sure if that is the same stuff you are talking about.


Never tried seeing what either oil type would do as far as repelling from hot spots. I do know that true synthetics will remain as oil and continue to lubricate past 400 deg F. Dino oil become nothing but crud at those temps. Also of note; There are several air cooled racing engines that often approach oil temps of over 350 to 380. They CANNOT use dino oils. I can also report that one of my Porsche is a 1985 Carrara with air cooled engine. It has never had anything but Mobile One synthetic in it (Or maybe a batch or two of RedLine) on the street or track. While it doesn't have a lot of miles on it for an '85 (65K) it performs flawlessly and uses no oil between changes.

Don't think any engine would survive these quoted temps without freezing up long before they were reached. Bearings are naturally hotter than the lube temps. Babbit bearings are best just above 220 F., oil temp. Excludes competition machinery,


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Old 06-23-2015, 10:35 PM   #24
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..I wish we had them 30+ years ago in the racing industry. Effectively the molecular string in a synthetic oil can be designed to much better, handle heat, shear, load, viscosity indexing, sequestering, etc. than dino oil. But now days, the dino oil and its additive package (with much better engines and induction systems) make cheaper oils all you really need.
Started using Mobil 1 in 1978 per Smokey Yunick's advice. Have used it in every ic engine I own ever since. Lawn mowers, Cub Cadets, generators, etc.
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Old 06-24-2015, 10:13 AM   #25
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They amount oil brakes down is only measured by Al Gore when not being used heat cold if your that concerned just change oil filter,get over it.
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:17 PM   #26
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Started using Mobil 1 in 1978 per Smokey Yunick's advice. Have used it in every ic engine I own ever since. Lawn mowers, Cub Cadets, generators, etc.
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Mobil 1 5W30 and Mobil 1 oil filter. since day one in 3051s and six years before that in old Glendale royal classic MH
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:21 PM   #27
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Started using Mobil 1 in 1978 per Smokey Yunick's advice. Have used it in every ic engine I own ever since. Lawn mowers, Cub Cadets, generators, etc.

So is the reason that half ton tows that 5er so well is that the 5er is a 7/8ths size one ??? Lol


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Old 06-25-2015, 08:55 PM   #28
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True Story..
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Old 06-25-2015, 09:25 PM   #29
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Gonna throw in my 2 cents here. I am pretty anal about maintenance as well. You changed your oil before putting your baby to bed last winter....good move. Don't want all of those break down products sitting in your oil pan over the winter. You should be ok up to 5000 miles if it is mostly highway driving. However, for 30 bucks and your time for an oil change, just do it and not second guess it. Peace of mind has no price......
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