Overhead lights - New switches

[brucemc]

While having the switches for the two overhead lights in the convenience panel sounds like a good idea, the two switches are at the far right side, and very hard to locate in the dark.

I purchased a new JR switch which matches the existing switches, then installed in just below the convenience center.

Now the switches are easy to find, and it's obvious these are for the overhead lights:

Before, with convenience panel pulled out to access the wires and determine a location for the switch:



After installation:



I can see a small cost savings for the assemblers in the terms of cutting the hole and installing the dual switch. But the cost would be such a little difference compared to what FR provided.

Another project complete!

We have a single switch on its way so we can have a wall switch for the kitchen sink light. That project will take a bit more effort as it'll need to be a surface mount, and routing the new wiring will take a bit of effort, but the end result will be well worth it.

[Forester Fred]

Bruce, looks really good. Did you leave the switch on the convenience panel live or did you just change the wiring to the new switch?

[Garrette]

Nice touch.


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[brucemc]

Originally Posted by Forester Fred

Bruce, looks really good. Did you leave the switch on the convenience panel live or did you just change the wiring to the new switch?

I moved the wiring to the the new switches. The originals in the panel are now "management switches". (they don't do a thing though they look functional).

I may eventually replace the switches in the convenience panel with blank-out plates.

The new switches feel so natural, it feels like they've been there all along.

[hikerjohn7]

Originally Posted by brucemc

While having the switches for the two overhead lights in the convenience panel sounds like a good idea, the two switches are at the far right side, and very hard to locate in the dark.

I purchased a new JR switch which matches the existing switches, then installed in just below the convenience center.

Now the switches are easy to find, and it's obvious these are for the overhead lights:

Before, with convenience panel pulled out to access the wires and determine a location for the switch:



After installation:



I can see a small cost savings for the assemblers in the terms of cutting the hole and installing the dual switch. But the cost would be such a little difference compared to what FR provided.

Another project complete!

We have a single switch on its way so we can have a wall switch for the kitchen sink light. That project will take a bit more effort as it'll need to be a surface mount, and routing the new wiring will take a bit of effort, but the end result will be well worth it.

I'd like to do this in my Georgetown for the ceiling lights in the bedroom. Currently my wife has to reach the switch on the ceiling light itself to turn it on. I can see how to run wiring for the switch in the hollow wall but how much trouble is it to get the wiring from the ceiling light mount point to run along the ceiling to the wall? Do the wires have to be externally attached or is there a way to have them pass through the ceiling panels.


John James

[DouglasReid]

Im glad to see that there is someone who agrees with me that the light switches are not in the right place or some not on wall switches at all.

Our Sterling 32RL had no wall switch for the bedroom lights. You had to enter, round a corner and turn on the overhead lights one at a time. It was a pain in the A__. I just finished putting in a wall switch. The bathroom was immediately behind the bedroom wall and was curved to accommodate the installation of the medicine cabinet. By removing the medicine cabinet I had access to drill a hole into the ceiling to fish a wire over to the closest bedroom ceiling light. 2 wire splices later and I have a wall switch located just inside the bedroom door

[Wolverine 1945]

I am wondering if there is a switch with a light in it that we could use to replace those little wall switches,,, I have installed several of then in our home & garage !!!

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by Wolverine 1945

I am wondering if there is a switch with a light in it that we could use to replace those little wall switches,,, I have installed several of then in our home & garage !!!

Your home and garage are 120 Volt and the lights on your camper are 12 Volt.
They make lighted switches in 120 Volt, some lighted all the time, some lighted when activated.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Rv-Trail...JWIWZP&vxp=mtr

above is a link for a lighted wall switch on eBay so the manufacturer probably makes lighted single switches as well. I don't know if it is lighted all teh time or only when activated though.

[Wolverine 1945]

I have never seen a 12 volt light switch with back light,,, would be a great thing !!!

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by Wolverine 1945

I have never seen a 12 volt light switch with back light,,, would be a great thing !!!

JR Products :: Home

Do a search of Electrical and On/Off switches on the website. there are several pages and on the bottom of page 2 is something you might be interested in.

Hope this helps

Douglas

[brucemc]

Originally Posted by hikerjohn7

I'd like to do this in my Georgetown for the ceiling lights in the bedroom. Currently my wife has to reach the switch on the ceiling light itself to turn it on. I can see how to run wiring for the switch in the hollow wall but how much trouble is it to get the wiring from the ceiling light mount point to run along the ceiling to the wall? Do the wires have to be externally attached or is there a way to have them pass through the ceiling panels.


John James

The short answer is "it depends". You are right, it's easy to pull wires in the hollow inside walls, but the exterior walls have no voids as they are solid foam. Other than routing a wire from inside to out, there's no way to use exterior walls to route wires.

You asked about the ceiling, and here's where the "it depends" comes in. While working on the overhead in ours, I installed a light in the bunk area. I found FR had glued up blocks of foam and ran the wiring in channels. The wiring is also glued in. Yet, there are open channels running fore and aft, but whether they run full length or are offset is not known. I struggled with routing a wire back to the light as you see here:


Even though the wire was immediately above the fixture. Fortunately, the wire was routed forward for the entertainment center that I had removed, so I looped it back to the fixture. I couldn't use the wire as routed right above the fixture as it was glued in place.

I found there is a small space between the top of the foam and the plywood backing on the roof, however. In my case, I might be able to route a wire across using that small space.

That all said, I'm relaying my experience with our 2016 2250 Sunseeker. I have no idea how yours is constructed. You might want to drop the fixture to see if there is a passage between the roof plywood and the foam block.

Routing aside, the wiring is easy - route a pair from the fixture to the switch. Wire both to the switch. At the fixture, cut the colored wire (as the white is common/ground, typically), and splice each wire from the switch to each end of the wire you just cut. Now you'll have a wall switch to control the ceiling lamp.

I can draw up a schematic, if you would like.

Hope that helps!

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by Wolverine 1945

I have never seen a 12 volt light switch with back light,,, would be a great thing !!!

You can even buy the base and face plate separate, their part number is 12305 for a black one like mine in my camper, but available in white or brown also. then you could put in other switches several of which are lighted. This is more expensive option but not horrible to get what you really want