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Old 08-06-2015, 10:46 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by ATVer View Post
Residual power use is minimal and there are loads such as battery controls, generator controls, slides, awning power etc that are directly wired to the battery and not shut off through the switch. If you are concerned why not disconnect the batteries and use a "Battery Tender" to maintain the batteries. IMO it's a better choice than the onboard converter since a Battery Tender is specifically designed to maintain batteries and not other functions.
2014 was around the time FR swapped to a Power Dynamics Converter which allows the switch to be off and still charge the batteries on shore power. Check and see if you have a Power Dynamics Converter, if you do you can leave the switch off.
Wow, by your description the battery disconnect is a useless item. When the battery is disconnected I believe that what is still directly connected to the battery, except maybe for the O2 sensor, are items that route through switches and therefore are essentially open circuits unless that item switch is actuated.
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Old 08-06-2015, 11:55 AM   #12
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Well I'm going to assume for now I have a newer converter cause it was changed last month
I use the RV monthly and disconnecting the Batteries to put on a trickle charger sounds like a good winter option but too much hassle for on season
I mean if I have to plug in a trickle charger then the RV has to be plugged in and the converter is designed to keep the batteries charged ,so isnt this a little overkill?
What do other people do?
Im not going to run an extension cord out the window to plug in the trickle charger.
I guess the real question is why is it a problem to just plug into 110 and let the converter keep my batteries up.
What am I missing here?
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Old 08-06-2015, 02:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trdutch View Post
Well I'm going to assume for now I have a newer converter cause it was changed last month
I use the RV monthly and disconnecting the Batteries to put on a trickle charger sounds like a good winter option but too much hassle for on season
I mean if I have to plug in a trickle charger then the RV has to be plugged in and the converter is designed to keep the batteries charged ,so isnt this a little overkill?
What do other people do?
Im not going to run an extension cord out the window to plug in the trickle charger.
I guess the real question is why is it a problem to just plug into 110 and let the converter keep my batteries up.
What am I missing here?
It's easy to check and see if your batteries are being charged with the switch on or off. Plug in shore power, put a volt meter on your batteries and check the voltage with the switch on and off. Should read over 13 volts. If less in the off position, then you are not charging your batteries.
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Old 08-07-2015, 10:35 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trdutch View Post
Well I'm going to assume for now I have a newer converter cause it was changed last month
I use the RV monthly and disconnecting the Batteries to put on a trickle charger sounds like a good winter option but too much hassle for on season
I mean if I have to plug in a trickle charger then the RV has to be plugged in and the converter is designed to keep the batteries charged ,so isnt this a little overkill?
What do other people do?
Im not going to run an extension cord out the window to plug in the trickle charger.
I guess the real question is why is it a problem to just plug into 110 and let the converter keep my batteries up.
What am I missing here?
The installed converter should have a battery maintainer or float mode so it should be fine for summer between trips. Unless you are using a battery maintainer like "Battery Tender" which has float, trickle charge, and desulfication modes a so called trickle charger may be worse for the battery than the installed converter. You do not have to disconnect the batteries to use a Battery Tender. I only mentioned it because the poster seemed concerned having any load whatsoever on the batteries while in storage.

I store my RV in a garage so it's easier for me to use two battery tenders, one for the coach batteries and one for the chassis battery anytime I'm not using the RV. I have not researched the circuitry to determine if the chassis battery is also maintained when the installed converter is used during storage.
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Old 08-07-2015, 12:01 PM   #15
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Typically, on recently built units both coach and chassis batteries are charged when plugged into shore power. Also, both batteries are charged when driving. I believe the coach battery has priority with shore power and chassis battery has priority when driving. The coach battery has to be connected (not in storage mode) to be charged either way.
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Old 08-07-2015, 12:16 PM   #16
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Mine is a 2013 3011DS.

When storing for more than a few weeks I disconnect my coach batteries but I also pop all of my breakers. If I don't then the devices in the coach draw down the chassis battery.

I never charge without the battery switch on. I made the assumption that the switch needed to be on unless the charging circuit is connected directly to the battery and I didn't see a connection that lead me to believe that this was the case. It may be. The only way for you to know is to try it

When my coach batteries do get low I grab some tape or a bungee to hold the connect switch on and I use the chassis battery to start my genset.

Oh, and I always carry a set of jumper cables in case I REALLY mess up.
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Old 08-08-2015, 10:15 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyGuy View Post
Mine is a 2013 3011DS.

When storing for more than a few weeks I disconnect my coach batteries but I also pop all of my breakers. If I don't then the devices in the coach draw down the chassis battery.

Just to be factual for those who might read this in the future, opening breakers (120 VAC) does nothing to affect the 12 VDC batteries, unless you are running an inverter which is a whole different discussion.


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Old 08-09-2015, 06:10 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyGuy View Post
Mine is a 2013 3011DS.

When storing for more than a few weeks I disconnect my coach batteries but I also pop all of my breakers. If I don't then the devices in the coach draw down the chassis battery.

I never charge without the battery switch on. I made the assumption that the switch needed to be on unless the charging circuit is connected directly to the battery and I didn't see a connection that lead me to believe that this was the case. It may be. The only way for you to know is to try it

When my coach batteries do get low I grab some tape or a bungee to hold the connect switch on and I use the chassis battery to start my genset.

Oh, and I always carry a set of jumper cables in case I REALLY mess up.

Turning off the battery disconnect will prevent any devices (parasites) from discharging the coach battery. That is the primary purpose of the disconnect switch.

If coach batteries are too low to start the generator, then start the engine. It will provide power to the coach batteries via the engine alternator. Otherwise, using the interconnect switch, if the generator doesn't start right away, you may end up with dead coach and chassis batteries.


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Old 08-10-2015, 09:15 PM   #19
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Our generator will not start unless we have more than a quarter tank of gas. Just sayin?
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Old 08-11-2015, 09:14 AM   #20
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Parked for a while

I talked to my Indy about how to "store the unit" between trips.
They have a fleet of rentals so they keep them plugged in cause they are prepping and turning around weekly,but for my needs they said unplug it and turn the Bat switch off.

Good point on fuel level.a lot of folks might have missed that.
I always keep at least half tank between trips at the storage farm,just in case of an emergency need for the RV it would be disheartening to need the unit and it's ability to generate it's own power just to find out you put it up with a quarter tank of gas and at the least,I like to use the RV for getting out of the heat or cold when we are there for the day playing with the horses (don't have 30amp service)
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