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Old 06-10-2015, 11:16 AM   #11
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Great review of the 2300, DocsDad. I'd love to find a similar review of the 2500TS(Chevy). And love those tips, RubberNail. Thanks to you both.
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Old 07-26-2015, 02:24 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by RubberNail View Post
We too have a 2300, 2013 Chevy chassis, 30mo old, just over 30k miles. Also getting 10.5 to 11.5 mpg, 10 mpg when towing 2007 Malibu. Wife and I are in our 70s, and frequently (when we can) travel with 2 granddaughters. Similar experience to yours. Just a few thoughts to share:
1. After market passenger side seat swivel is an excellent add on. Got mine from Shop4Seats.com, about $240 with shipping. Easy do-it-yourself install.
2. I had age related problems crawling out of the corner bed until I added 3 door handles to the underside of the window overhead cabinets, plus one on the wall opposite side of the frig. Purchased from Amazon, JR Products Assist Handle. Wide handles will not work. These are narrow enough to screw into the cabinet framing. They aren't strong enough for lifting your body, but work good to steady you when rising from bed.
3. Another help with the corner bed difficulties, invest in a Grip'n Grab Stick. Got mine through Amazon. Medium or longer length works to open cabinet doors, move pillows, and make up bed while standing on the floor.
Have several other "improvements", but these are the ones that make the most difference.
Have fun! We do!
My wife and I are considering the 2290SC for ourselves and we're both elderly. I liked your idea for handles.
I would also like to know if you have a quick reply to the question of shortening the bed length by a foot so I can get in and out better. Not knowing what's under the foot of the bed, I cannot guess if it would be possible to do.
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Old 07-26-2015, 08:08 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by WelshAmerican View Post
My wife and I are considering the 2290SC for ourselves and we're both elderly. I liked your idea for handles.
I would also like to know if you have a quick reply to the question of shortening the bed length by a foot so I can get in and out better. Not knowing what's under the foot of the bed, I cannot guess if it would be possible to do.
I've got a Forester 2301, the twin to the Sunseeker 2300. The underside of the rear queen is completely full underneath with water tank, water heater, transfer switch, converter and all kinds of electrical wiring. There's really no way to shorten the bed unless you start pulling out parts and pieces that you need to make the camper livable.
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Old 07-26-2015, 08:31 PM   #14
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I replied to WelshAmerican earlier but looks like it failed to post. Same reply as Captain Skip, but one added note:

I removed the accordion door that is mounted to the bulkhead at the foot of the bed. Frees up another 6" to get in and out of bed. Replaced it with a shower curtain and rod between midpoint of frig and edge of closet. Easier to use and more privacy room for changing clothes. We carried ourselves (we're 71) and two grandgirls (12 & 16) on a 3 week Yellowstone trip last year. Curtain worked a lot better than the accordion door had.

Great thing about the 2300 corner bed is that it is a full size queen. Easy and inexpensive to upgrade. Also, the length lets you park in a lot of the national parks where anything larger is a problem.

Hope we helped.
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Old 08-02-2015, 03:56 PM   #15
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Thanks for the hints. That bed is a beast for us golden oldies.
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Old 08-02-2015, 04:03 PM   #16
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Wow...great idea! That accordion curtain is gonna be history by my next long trip. The retaining strap is always coming undone anyway. I assume there is no wiring or ductwork, etc to ruin above the fridge???
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Old 08-02-2015, 04:54 PM   #17
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I hear it is easy to omit things during the building of a MH. That may be our choice regarding the accordion doors. Adding 6" to the passageway out of the corner bed will probably be noticeable.
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Old 08-02-2015, 04:56 PM   #18
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The bed is a beast, but doable even for those of us who "rise" several times during the night, and you get to park most anywhere. Not sure what was meant by the wiring/ductwork question, but if about the shower curtain rod, I just used a "friction" type rod, one with rubber cups on the end that you twist to "lock" the length. I do that with a very slight diagonal in the rod position, then bump it into place so that it fits extremely tight. Have several thousand miles like that and have never fallen, even on Louisiana roads. (We in Louisiana love Oklahoma cause it creates a tie for the worst roads in US)
After you solve the bed problem(s), the front passenger chair swivel was, for me, the biggest reward. While wife and grandchildren have no problem with the "U" dinette, it was a killer for me, and the swivel made the passenger seat useful for sitting inside when raining, or just plain too hot, outside.
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Old 08-02-2015, 05:23 PM   #19
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Removing the accordion doors is simply a matter of removing 3 screws and the remaining holes are barely noticeable and easily filled with wood filler. The door itself is very light and easily removed. Only problem is working it out of the overhead track without removing the track - and that's also doable. I saved ours because, for the uninformed or uninitiated, their presence is attractive and enhances resale value down the road.
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Old 08-02-2015, 06:24 PM   #20
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Thanks RubberNail. I never thought of using a tension rod. Clever!
When that accordion gets loose it also catches on the fridge door, so it's indeed history.
My 2300 has the bench dinette. Very cheap foam. After 15 minutes sitting it's flat and I'm not a fatty. I've been thinking of recliners instead ��. Will just have to opt for new foam I suppose. At least the covers are zippered.
Can you close the side door after your front passenger seat is swiveled? My unit is a Ford chassis.
Keep the great ideas coming Y'all.
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