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Old 06-13-2014, 09:39 PM   #41
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I had the same problem last year when down at Myrtle Beach. Rained cats and dogs all night with lots of wind. Morning came and there was a stream of water on the top bunk. I thought it was the window at first, but I closed slide when more rain was suppose to come. No more leak. I went on the roof and looked under the topper at the top of slide and noticed a lot of water. I believe because it was so windy and so much rain it wound up pooling up on top. Ive had it out on many more trips with no leaks, but I did want to remove the topper and caulk all the screws and along a seam at the front before we go down to Myrtle Beach again this year. I'm convinced it made its way through a screw hole or maybe the seam wasn't caulked enough, but without the topper off its hard to see.
Does anyone know the easiest way to remove the topper?
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Old 06-13-2014, 10:56 PM   #42
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Extend the slide about a foot or so. Roll the tube towards the MH to put a little slack in the fabric. On the ends, you'll find a small hole. You can insert a nail or small rod in there when lined up just right, and it will hold the topper in place at that position. Unscrew the 3 or 4 screws securing it to the arms. I think mine had 2 per arm. Pull the slide in just a little bit to put some more slack in the fabric. Makes it easier to slide off the arms. Slide it one way to get it off of one arm, then the other and it's off. You can then lay it up on the roof out of the way.
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Old 06-13-2014, 10:57 PM   #43
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The only reason I say just a foot or so, is it makes it easier to set it up on the roof from a ladder.
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At least in Heaven, RVs will be perfect, and I won't have to keep fixing them.
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Old 06-13-2014, 11:03 PM   #44
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Here's what I did to the tops of my slides on the Forester as soon as I got it home. I didn't like the way it looked. Just looked like a leak waiting to happen, regardless of how much butyl was under the T-molding or angle and how much sealer was on the seams. So, cleaned and did the eternabond tape on all of these seams. Also, though supposedly not required, I perimeter sealed the windows (Top and sides), perimeter sealed all exterior EK slide seals and sealed over every screw on the transition trim on the roof (that strip running the length of the edge of the roof).
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At least in Heaven, RVs will be perfect, and I won't have to keep fixing them.
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Old 06-13-2014, 11:30 PM   #45
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I hate to even make another post since I made the last 3, but, what concerns me with the OP's leak, is if it is not the window, and it is in fact coming from the top of the slide, then that opens a whole other can of worms, delamination. Curiosity is killing me to see what the outcome is on this one.
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Emma-7 / Little John-5 / Iva-1
Full Timing Again, Rev B
2013 Ford F-350 Lariat CC LB PSD
2015 SOB TT - With OC's Awning Poles (#8)
At least in Heaven, RVs will be perfect, and I won't have to keep fixing them.
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Old 06-14-2014, 10:24 AM   #46
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DONT take it to Orl RV! I bought mine there and had to wait 2 months for a service appt for an issue they knew about before I even bought it. Then they had it 2 months because they waited aonth to order the part they said they ordered before I bought it. Their customer service is the worst!

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Old 06-14-2014, 10:38 AM   #47
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I'm trying to take the topper off the rear slide. I'm confused on where the pin or nail is suppose to go through when holes line up. I spun the rear all the way around and didn't see anywhere that there were holes that lines up. Can someone explain in a little more detail. Sorry if this seems like something simple, but I just don't know if I'm looking in the right place. Thanks.
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Old 06-14-2014, 12:27 PM   #48
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This isn't mine, but a good picture that will show you what I'm talking about. You usually can't "see" the hole to line the nail up. Just insert and rotate and it will eventually find the hole. I'm not at home to look at it, but now I correct myself on the screws to remove. Just 1 screw on each end.
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At least in Heaven, RVs will be perfect, and I won't have to keep fixing them.
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Old 06-14-2014, 01:10 PM   #49
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Thanks for the picture. I did finally get a nail through the hole, but was home alone and couldn't get both sides to come off. As in your picture, there was a screw in that location, but the other side didn't have one. I saw a video that showed them putting a rivet in one side, but I didn't see anything in the hole at all on the side closest to the door. It would move a little, but would not come off. I tried taking the 2 screws out that hold the main tube in and with only being able to be on one side I couldn't tell if it was binding up or what was going on. I finally put everything back together and will wait till I can get someone to help on the other end.
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Old 06-14-2014, 01:52 PM   #50
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It does help to have a second person sometimes. The more slack you have in the fabric, the easier the awning will slide side to side to come off of the arms. Sometimes takes a little wiggling or rocking back and forth.

Hope the thread wasn't hijacked too bad.

To the OP, were you ever able to establish the location where the water is coming in? Top of the slide? Window?
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2013 Ford F-350 Lariat CC LB PSD
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Old 06-14-2014, 01:56 PM   #51
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Pretty sure it is coming in from the top of the slide when the water blows in under the cover.
We have been putting the slide in when we leave for the day and when it rains, so far there has been no more leaking with that change.

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Old 06-14-2014, 02:08 PM   #52
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Well, sounds like that narrows it down. Even though I never had that problem, you can see what I had done in the previous posts with the eternabond and sealer. If that in fact is where it's coming in, my concern now would be, just how much water got into that wall. Will it delamintate in the future. Very important to document with FR at this point, as if you run into mold or delam problems, you want records to back you for sure. That could end up being a whole slide side wall replacement.
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Full Timing Again, Rev B
2013 Ford F-350 Lariat CC LB PSD
2015 SOB TT - With OC's Awning Poles (#8)
At least in Heaven, RVs will be perfect, and I won't have to keep fixing them.
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Old 06-14-2014, 02:14 PM   #53
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What is the best way to document this type of thing? I am not happy at all with the dealer I purchased from so I would prefer to document directly to FR or if needed, find a dealer that can handle it.
I put a video and pictures on here for BCLEMENS so hopefully that helps too.

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Old 06-14-2014, 02:28 PM   #54
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Hopefully Brian can chime in on the proper protocol for that one. Since you're already up north, and not satisfied with your dealer, it might be best to have the guys at the service center in Elkhart work with you. It's right across the road from the Forester / Sunseeker plant. When we had ours up there, I coordinated everything with April Conner first (574 206-7603 aconner@forestriverinc.com, then once there it was Dan Evans (574) 206-7605 devans@forestriverinc.com and Rick Black (574) 206-7602 rblack@forestriverinc.com. Dan was head over the operation, Rick was over the shop. I'm not sure if all of these people are in the same positions or are still there at this time, but they took care of us fine in early 2013. Maybe Brian (bclemens) can verify if these people are still good contacts. Of course, it'll be monday before you can reach anybody.
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Full Timing Again, Rev B
2013 Ford F-350 Lariat CC LB PSD
2015 SOB TT - With OC's Awning Poles (#8)
At least in Heaven, RVs will be perfect, and I won't have to keep fixing them.
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Old 06-14-2014, 02:30 PM   #55
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The Indiana facility is a little over 8 hours drive from us. Hopefully something can be done closer

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Old 06-14-2014, 02:44 PM   #56
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Possibly. Not sure as we're way down south. I drove 1100+ miles up there. They put us up in a nice hotel and had everything taken care of rather quickly. If you explain your time schedule, this does help. In my case, I work offshore so they knew ahead of time, I had X amount of days and I had to go. I'm not sure, but they might can arrange for someone to come pick the unit up. Not saying the Indiana facility is the absolute best option, but they do this stuff all the time (side wall replacements, roof replacements etc). Pretty fascinating watching entire walls come off. I'd guess, they'd have that wall off and a new one on in a short part of a day, new decals and it'd be out of there relatively quick. I'd want to know and have a huge amount of trust in a dealer service dept to do something like this.
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John and Rebecca Dickson
Emma-7 / Little John-5 / Iva-1
Full Timing Again, Rev B
2013 Ford F-350 Lariat CC LB PSD
2015 SOB TT - With OC's Awning Poles (#8)
At least in Heaven, RVs will be perfect, and I won't have to keep fixing them.
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Old 06-15-2014, 12:44 AM   #57
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email last 6 of your VIN and a link to that video to Russ rstull@forestriverinc.com
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Old 06-15-2014, 09:06 AM   #58
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I just sent the email with all of the information you mentioned as well as my contact information. Thank you Mr. Clemens for all of you help!
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Old 06-15-2014, 11:54 AM   #59
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For my topper off the bunk slide today. There was a broken screw holding the one side, so had to drill it out. After cleaning down the seam with half water, half alcohol, I could see several spots where the calulk was either not really there or very thin and cracked. I could see how if the water pooled up it would have no problem finding its way in. I also sealed around all the screws.i got lap sealant from an rv place near us at the recommendation from the guy at the parts department. I'll be sealing the sofa slide also. If the bunk one looked the way it did, I'm sure the sofa one looks the same.
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Old 06-15-2014, 11:55 AM   #60
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First sentence must have been auto correct. Should say I got my slide topper off today.
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