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Old 04-23-2013, 03:20 PM   #11
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Perhaps. Check the driver side area where the water filter is also. (behind the black ABS door). Could just be hiding.
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:33 PM   #12
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A note:

You should never drain the hot water heater through the hot water pipes.

Always bypass first; then remove the anode. This keeps all the Calcium and Anode bits in the hot water tank where you can flush it out.

If you try to drain the hot water tank through the low point drain by opening the Pressure relief valve (or hot water tap) and letting it "glug" out, it will suck those bits into your plumbing.

When you de-winterize all that crap will be forced into your tap valves and even into your cold water lines. This could cause all kinds issues, like slow running taps and a toilet that won't flush.
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:39 PM   #13
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The voice of wisdom (said in TV announcer voice). I'll add that to my repertoire to make me sound smarter at RV shows.
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:17 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bclemens View Post
The voice of wisdom (said in TV announcer voice). I'll add that to my repertoire to make me sound smarter at RV shows.
Don't ask how I know...

See my thread on repairing the Thetford Toilet for a hint.
Repairing a Thetford Aqua Magic V
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Old 04-23-2013, 04:21 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulmlac View Post
OK. I'm confused. We have a '13 3100. Under the unit are two drain hoses, one blue and one red (see attached pic). I understand the blue one. I don't get the red one. Logic would indicate a hot drain. But I thought the only way to drain hot was to remove the anode rod. Also, when I unscrewed the cap last night, pink antifreeze came out. I drained our water heater by removing the anode rod so know there is no pink in there. In fact, the only place I put pink was down the various drains. So what is the red line for, what's "upstream", and when should I unscrew the cap? Thanks!

Attachment 28664
Interesting, the way my system is piped I also got red and blue on the bottom of the rig. Difference my blue line drops the FW tank and the red drains the piping system Hot and Cold are common in a few places so it will all drain as long as you open all the faucets. The hot water tank will always leave water behind because the taps for H and C are far above the bottom. You really should inspect the anode whenever you winterize anyway.
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:22 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
A note:

You should never drain the hot water heater through the hot water pipes.

Always bypass first; then remove the anode. This keeps all the Calcium and Anode bits in the hot water tank where you can flush it out.

If you try to drain the hot water tank through the low point drain by opening the Pressure relief valve (or hot water tap) and letting it "glug" out, it will suck those bits into your plumbing.

When you de-winterize all that crap will be forced into your tap valves and even into your cold water lines. This could cause all kinds issues, like slow running taps and a toilet that won't flush.
Right on. Didn't mean to imply that was way to drain water heater. AFTER you bypass heater low point drain can be helpful to get rest of water out.
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