Red drain hose

[paulmlac]

OK. I'm confused. We have a '13 3100. Under the unit are two drain hoses, one blue and one red (see attached pic). I understand the blue one. I don't get the red one. Logic would indicate a hot drain. But I thought the only way to drain hot was to remove the anode rod. Also, when I unscrewed the cap last night, pink antifreeze came out. I drained our water heater by removing the anode rod so know there is no pink in there. In fact, the only place I put pink was down the various drains. So what is the red line for, what's "upstream", and when should I unscrew the cap? Thanks!

[Rugged Brown]

These are low point drains for the hot and cold water systems.

[paulmlac]

Agreed from a logic perspective but doesn't seem right based on what I did.

- I removed the anode rod from the water heater to drain it. I thought that was the only way to drain the water heater based on the owners manual & what I heard. I didn't know I could just unscrew the cap on the red drain.

- I then blew out all the lines (opened all the cold / hot taps in so doing).

- And then I put pink down the drains only (i.e., not in the fresh tank & the water heater was on bypass so don't know how pink could have gotten in a hot line).

Thanks!

[bakken]

The factory tests the system I imagine, so they would have winterized it before shipping it out. That is probably where the pink came from.
As for draining the hot water tank, you remove the anode rod as you said. The pictured low-point drain is not for that purpose.
I don't think you have anything to worry about.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by paulmlac

OK. I'm confused. We have a '13 3100. Under the unit are two drain hoses, one blue and one red (see attached pic). I understand the blue one. I don't get the red one. Logic would indicate a hot drain. But I thought the only way to drain hot was to remove the anode rod. Also, when I unscrewed the cap last night, pink antifreeze came out. I drained our water heater by removing the anode rod so know there is no pink in there. In fact, the only place I put pink was down the various drains. So what is the red line for, what's "upstream", and when should I unscrew the cap? Thanks!

Attachment 28664

Did you take the cap off of the blue/cold water line? I have a dark monitor here at the shop. but it appears there is no cap on it.

Your hot and cold low point drains will help get out the water that is in their respective lines......but not any water that would be trapped in any kind of reservoir (like a hot water heater or water filter and/or water pump).

As far as the pink, did you put any in the water pump or water filter when winterizing?

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by paulmlac

- And then I put pink down the drains only (i.e., not in the fresh tank & the water heater was on bypass so don't know how pink could have gotten in a hot line).

Thanks!

When you set to bypass, you are tying the cold water line to the hot water line......just bypassing the water heater itself. Basically your hot water lines, just become all cold water lines this way.

Even when not bypassing the heater, you have the cold water line inputting to the heater...... whereas the heater heats the cold water, then outputs the heated water to the hot water lines. Anything upstream of the hot water heater in the cold water lines, could get drawn into the water heater, then pushed out into the hot water lines.

The whole purpose of the bypass, is to keep the antifreeze out of the heater (thus not needing to fill the water heater with it, which could be six gallons or more). All of your lines (hot and cold) are then filled with antifreeze.

That's why I asked if you may have put any antifreeze in the water pump or water filter.......cause antifreeze in either would end up in the hot water line.

[ATVer]

Originally Posted by paulmlac

Agreed from a logic perspective but doesn't seem right based on what I did.

- I removed the anode rod from the water heater to drain it. I thought that was the only way to drain the water heater based on the owners manual & what I heard. I didn't know I could just unscrew the cap on the red drain.

- I then blew out all the lines (opened all the cold / hot taps in so doing).

- And then I put pink down the drains only (i.e., not in the fresh tank & the water heater was on bypass so don't know how pink could have gotten in a hot line).

Thanks!

You need to open the red cap to ensure all the water is drained from the hot water lines when you winterize. It may or may not drain the water heater as well. You should always remove the water heater drain plug/anode as well.

[RvBill3]

Originally Posted by wmtire

Did you take the cap off of the blue/cold water line? I have a dark monitor here at the shop. but it appears there is no cap on it.

Your hot and cold low point drains will help get out the water that is in their respective lines......but not any water that would be trapped in any kind of reservoir (like a hot water heater or water filter and/or water pump).

As far as the pink, did you put any in the water pump or water filter when winterizing?

The cold water low point drain has a valve in the compartment where the water pump is, so it does not have a cap on it. The red (hot) has a cap.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by RvBill3

The cold water low point drain has a valve in the compartment where the water pump is, so it does not have a cap on it. The red (hot) has a cap.

Good deal. Thanks for the info.

[Cjhernandez]

I have a 3170DS 2013, I only see a blue drain hose. I thought there was supposed to be a red one for hot water also. Am I missing something?

[bclemens]

Perhaps. Check the driver side area where the water filter is also. (behind the black ABS door). Could just be hiding.

[Herk7769]

A note:

You should never drain the hot water heater through the hot water pipes.

Always bypass first; then remove the anode. This keeps all the Calcium and Anode bits in the hot water tank where you can flush it out.

If you try to drain the hot water tank through the low point drain by opening the Pressure relief valve (or hot water tap) and letting it "glug" out, it will suck those bits into your plumbing.

When you de-winterize all that crap will be forced into your tap valves and even into your cold water lines. This could cause all kinds issues, like slow running taps and a toilet that won't flush.

[bclemens]

The voice of wisdom (said in TV announcer voice). I'll add that to my repertoire to make me sound smarter at RV shows.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by bclemens

The voice of wisdom (said in TV announcer voice). I'll add that to my repertoire to make me sound smarter at RV shows.

Don't ask how I know...

See my thread on repairing the Thetford Toilet for a hint.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...c-v-15261.html

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by paulmlac

OK. I'm confused. We have a '13 3100. Under the unit are two drain hoses, one blue and one red (see attached pic). I understand the blue one. I don't get the red one. Logic would indicate a hot drain. But I thought the only way to drain hot was to remove the anode rod. Also, when I unscrewed the cap last night, pink antifreeze came out. I drained our water heater by removing the anode rod so know there is no pink in there. In fact, the only place I put pink was down the various drains. So what is the red line for, what's "upstream", and when should I unscrew the cap? Thanks!

Attachment 28664

Interesting, the way my system is piped I also got red and blue on the bottom of the rig. Difference my blue line drops the FW tank and the red drains the piping system Hot and Cold are common in a few places so it will all drain as long as you open all the faucets. The hot water tank will always leave water behind because the taps for H and C are far above the bottom. You really should inspect the anode whenever you winterize anyway.

[RvBill3]

Originally Posted by herk7769

A note:

You should never drain the hot water heater through the hot water pipes.

Always bypass first; then remove the anode. This keeps all the Calcium and Anode bits in the hot water tank where you can flush it out.

If you try to drain the hot water tank through the low point drain by opening the Pressure relief valve (or hot water tap) and letting it "glug" out, it will suck those bits into your plumbing.

When you de-winterize all that crap will be forced into your tap valves and even into your cold water lines. This could cause all kinds issues, like slow running taps and a toilet that won't flush.

Right on. Didn't mean to imply that was way to drain water heater. AFTER you bypass heater low point drain can be helpful to get rest of water out.