Repairing water damaged floor

[Randy P]

I have a 2011 Sunseeker 3120. The shower was leaking water down onto the kitchen floor just below the hallway step. The damaged floor is buckled about 1/2 inch and feels a little spongy. I tried screwing a drywall screw in the high point but hit metal. Is the subfloor metal? Can I cut out this section out and rescrew a new piece to the subfloor or is there another way to go. I've attached 2 pictures, hope they went through. Help. Thanks, Randy

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[bclemens]

Yes, the subfloor is aluminum framed. It's not 100% aluminum...just a grid framework, so you got lucky hitting the 1.5" framing member.

[BigJohnD]

This is that one time you're glad those walls are screwed to the outside of the floor framing opposed to sitting on top of the floor. We had the Forester version of yours so I'm familiar with the lay out. Think the floor is 1/2" osb, and should be somewhat easy to section out and replace. I only have a few pictures here but you can see the osb and floor framing. Brian I'm sure has way better pictures. Too late now, but one of the things we checked on our PDI in our own shop once home, was pull the panel at the base of the shower, and spray everything that could possibly get sprayed to check for leaks. Also stopped up the drain and filled the shower pan which tests the putty / sealant around the drain. Also looked under the kitchen cabinet as you can see the back of the shower faucet, at least in ours you could. Our new Silverback leaked behind the shower faucet, but luckily before testing I had installed an access panel, and tested it thoroughly and caught it before any damage was done.

Hopefully in yours, there is minimal damage to the pantry cabinet and under the kitchen counter. I hate to see this happen, especially on a coach that new. Keep us posted on your findings and fixes.

[Randy P]

Thanks for the comments. I did recaulk the shower seams which were definitely leaking. I'll take a look under the shower pan, there's an access door. Also recaulked all the sinks. I'm going to try and cut out the water damaged section and replace with new wood. Hopefully it will work. Is the wood screwed down to the metal grid with self tapping screws? Thanks again for your help. Randy

[BigJohnD]

I wish I could answer that but it's something I didn't notice at the factory. I would imagine it is in some places. I didn't get to see the floors being constructed, just them being placed on the coach. Shoot bclemens a PM and ask away as I know he can tell you exactly how it's done. Would be cool to see some progress photos as it's replaced. I'm sure yours is not the first and won't be the last for this to happen to.

[bclemens]

Wood is not screwed down to the metal framing. All our walls and floors are vacuum bond laminated. Basically there is a layer of glue between each layer of materials. Then the whole thing goes into a vacuum bed and put under pressure while it sets up.

[BigJohnD]

Randy, any progress or pictures of your floor replacement project.? Curious as to how that's going and if you ran into any more issues.

[Randy P]

I cut out the damaged section as shown in the pic. The wood floor was glued down to the metal beams and styrofoam. Had to cut out in pieces, but chunks of foam came out with it. I'm going to fill in the missing foam with spray foam in a can. I'm trying to figure out how to give my new section extra strength since the support beams below do not match up with the section I cut out. Any ideas?

[Flagstaffer06]

I have to do a similar repair when the weather gets warmer as well. In your situation, perhaps you can put some cross blocking in. Looking at the picture, left to right. Additionally, if there is anyway to get underneath the existing floor from the cutout side on the left even just part way you might have luck doing that. Tough, to explain in words but, I've done it doing some drywall repairs. If you take a piece of material like wood and attach it underneath halfway to the existing material and then when you lay your new sub floor down you can attach that to the other side.

I suffered the same thing from two sections in the bathroom. I bought a used camper and everything was great. Until about the 3rd trip, I realize the shower was leaking and also the sink drain was barely attached to the sink. Now, every season I'm going to be checking all plumbing connections.

Let us know how you make out and show us the finished project!

[Randy P]

Good idea, the cross blocking should work. It's a must on rvs to check and recaulk annually. I didn't and paid the price. My rig is a 2011, shower leaked badly causing damage. The silicon caulk had separated from the shower seams. All the sinks were leaking water to under cabinet. So I recaulked everything. I haven't checked toilet for leaking yet. Guess I should. Thanks

I've also had:
plugged water lines
Cabinet doors falling off, loose
Slides getting stuck in out position
Microwave/convection oven went bad
Blew out fairly new tire
Replaced one slide cover (tore)
A/c start capacitor went out

[BigJohnD]

Flagstaffer pretty much summed up what I was thinking. Cut some of the foam out and add cross bracing.