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Old 10-18-2013, 09:32 PM   #1
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Replace shower pan?

Have a 2011 Sunseeker 3120. I have a crack in the shower pan, about 3 inches long. I didn't notice until we had water leaking under the wall into the kitchen area. I now have some water damage in the floor, soft and spongy. Anyway, I was hoping it was possible to replace only the pan without removing the shower surround. I was thinking about cutting out the old pan and dropping a new one in its place. Anyone have any experience with just replacing the pan? Thanks.
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Old 10-19-2013, 07:33 AM   #2
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I had a crack in a pan in one of our houses and a factory rep came and "patched" it. Didn't leave any scars. I would try that first.
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Old 10-19-2013, 07:51 AM   #3
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The shower surround overlaps the shower pan to prevent leakage. You will have to remove the lower surround screws to access the pan's lip screws.
If you have a glass shower door, you will have to remove it to get the pan out.
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Old 10-19-2013, 07:23 PM   #4
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Just another question. Is the surround glued to the walls, or are they just screwed in? Thanks
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Old 10-20-2013, 05:58 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy P View Post
Just another question. Is the surround glued to the walls, or are they just screwed in? Thanks
Hi Randy P,
To answer your direct question, I am not sure if the surround is glued to the walls. The corner of the surround that I lifted did not have glue behind it but it was sealed with silicone on the edges. My guess would be "no" so the tech guys could get it out easily and to allow for it to flex when the walls move during transport.

On my Coachman, I removed the glass shower door surround so I could clean the surround walls to re-apply the caulking to seal the glass frames to the walls.
I had a bump in the corner under the wall surround. I lifted the surround a bit in the corner to see what it was and discovered the pan screws on the flange of the pan.
The pan itself just sits on the floor, screwed to the wall. The surround sits on top of the pan. The factory had little pieces of scrap wood under the pan to support the flexing of the pan when you step in it.
I thought the flexing might lead to a crack so I made a little wedge shaped platform of plywood with 3 1/2" legs of 2 x 4 material to support the pan.
I cut the plywood to fit through the plumbing access hole and then jammed the 2 x 4 legs under it to support the floor of the pan. It worked well without allowing the pan to flex anymore.
I think the biggest pain of your project will be trying to remove and re-install the pan drain assembly, it is pretty tight through the access hole.
The P trap on my drain dipped through a hole the factory cut in the floor.
Make sure you confirm drain location on the new pan to avoid re- doing the plumbing drain.
On the handy meter, I would give this one about a 4 and should take you a couple hours to finish. The PITA meter would be an 8 rating, hence the 2 hour install.
Post pics if you get a chance for the others to see.
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Old 10-20-2013, 10:11 AM   #6
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Great information Crunchman, my pan definantly flexes when I walk on it. A stronger base is the way to go. Sound like a project to me. Thanks a bunch.
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