RV Battery leaking acid in my 2014 Sunseeker 2250SLEC

awilson2 · 02-23-2016, 08:31 PM

Does anyone know what the battery is on a 2250SLEC? The battery is under the step. I read one thread that said that FR batteries are unlabeled Exide batteries. It looks like an "Exide Nautulus" battery with a briefcase handle. The only marking is "KT2J16". Maybe a datecode. Is this a sealed battery? I tried to take the cover off but I'm afraid of breaking it. More acid comes out when I try to pry the cover off.
I found out the hard way about the acid leak. I keep the battery in the basement on a "Battery Tender". I carried it out by the handle to the RV to run the Generator for its monthly 2 hour run at half load. The next day my pants had holes in them. I figured it had to be the battery. I removed it from the RV and there was liquid dripping down the back. It had eaten the paint off under the battery and the metal was also being eaten by the acid.
Can I remove the cover on this battery or is it sealed and I need a new battery? Is an "Exide Nautulus" a good brand? I see threads about Interstate, NAPA and Deka. So far I just camp where there is power so I don't need anything that powerful.

brucemc · 02-23-2016, 09:44 PM

First, after you remove the batteries, clean up the battery well under your step with a mixture of baking soda and water. That neutralizes the acid so it'll stop eating the metal. After the bubbling has stopped, use the garden hose & flush the well with plenty of water. There's cable access holes that will drain off most of the water, then you can remove the remainder. After it has dried out, clean up the wrinkled paint and surface rust, then repaint with a rust-protecting type of paint.

Second, determine where the acid is coming from - if it is under the caps, you should be able to pry them off with a flat-bladed screw driver or a small pry tool - but do it with the battery out in the open, wear rubber gloves and a face shield. If there is a leak elsewhere, then it's time to discard the batteries and start anew.

Even though these batteries are only 2ish years old (based on the age of your rig in your sig), there might have been a failure on the battery tender, or something... as it caused the batteries to boil over (unless you find a leak elsewhere).

I've yet to pop the covers off the batteries on our new Sunseeker, but would expect them to be a similar battery.

I have no opinion on Exide other than it is generally a good brand.

awilson2 · 02-24-2016, 08:43 AM

brucemc, thanks for the feedback. I did a quick cleaning of the battery compartment and spray painted the affected area. I'll do your recommendation once the weather warms up. I also suspect the problem is boil over from overcharge. The acid is coming from under the cover where the caps should be. There's one piece of plastic covering the top where the caps should be. If it's not a crack, I'll have to figure out if the overcharge is from the Battery Tender or the converter. I think the Chevy may even charge the RV battery when the engine is running.
I'll have to use force to get the battery cover off. Hopefully it doesn't crack. It seems to flex a lot when I try to pry one corner off.

Delco Bobby · 02-24-2016, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by awilson2

brucemc, thanks for the feedback. I did a quick cleaning of the battery compartment and spray painted the affected area. I'll do your recommendation once the weather warms up. I also suspect the problem is boil over from overcharge. The acid is coming from under the cover where the caps should be. There's one piece of plastic covering the top where the caps should be. If it's not a crack, I'll have to figure out if the overcharge is from the Battery Tender or the converter. I think the Chevy may even charge the RV battery when the engine is running.
I'll have to use force to get the battery cover off. Hopefully it doesn't crack. It seems to flex a lot when I try to pry one corner off.

My 2013 2250 had caps that could be removed by prying up with a screwdriver.

The Chevy will charge the battery if you have the battery cut off switch in the position.

Josh once posted some info on the original stock batteries. Since I replaced my original battery recently with two Interstates I no longer have that info. But they are group 27 and I think they may be 100 amp.

My research also shows that DEKA is a good brand.

**Joshua Cavitt** · 02-25-2016, 08:43 AM

They are a generic brand of Exide batteries supplied by Worldwide Battery Co. The batteries are Group 27; 100 AMP hour.

Harkerr · 02-25-2016, 12:58 PM

Need to make some voltage measurements. Long term maintainer should be close to 13 volts. Much higher will cause battery to boil over

Big Bill · 02-25-2016, 01:24 PM

2X on checking the battery tender, and i would caution you about charging the battery in the basement as it is not ventilated

camaraderie · 02-25-2016, 02:33 PM

Once a battery is fully charged....only bad things can happen if you leave it charging and not in use. Most of the time it is no problem...but then stuff like the above happens to some.
A fully charged batt in a basement should hold charge to 50% for 4-5 months at least before even needing to be looked at or recharged and there is NO danger of anything happening.
In a coach, disconnected at the negative post, and outside in winter weather that gets as low as 20 below just check every 90 days or so.

As to replacements...assuming this is your only house battery...if you boondock a lot, I'd recommend the Trojan Group27 (or even better ...Group 31 IF it will fit your space.
If you don't boondock a lot...I'd still get a TRUE deep cycle batt...in either size...and not one that says dual purpose or talks about starting power. The DEKA's and their affiliated private labels have model numbers starting with DC...not DP if they are deep cycle and they are good values in many places.
If you are always plugged in then just go to Walmart and get their 27DC Everstart Marine battery for about 80 bucks.

Harold Fay · 02-25-2016, 06:19 PM

The caps do pop off on those batteries, it just takes a bit of persuasion. Re: your acid leaking, check the voltage level going to the batteries while the genset is running. From what you describe I have a feeling that the generator is overcharging the batteries and boiling the electrolyte out through the vents in the caps. Any vehicle repair shop should have the equipment needed to check the charging rate.

awilson2 · 02-25-2016, 09:08 PM

I finally removed the cover from the battery. I believe this type battery is called a "Sealed Liquid Acid" battery (aka SLA). There are no caps on each cell. The cover has the seals for each cell. I think the cover was originally epoxied to the battery. I now think the problem wasn't overcharge. I believe the epoxy on the cell on the end came free allowing acid to leak whenever the battery was jostled, such as when I move the battery or if I hit a bump while driving the RV. The corrosion in the battery compartment looks like it has been leaking for awhile. When the battery is normally sealed, I don't think liquid or fumes can escape from this type battery. I checked the "Float" Voltage of my Battery Tender. It is 13.3 VDC according to my WalMart Digital Multimeter. I'll probably take the advice and go to WalMart for a new deep cycle battery. I believe those batteries are made by Johnson Controls. I also checked HD but they had no Deep Cycle Batteries.
I'll try to add a photo of the battery and cover so that NO ONE will do what I did to the battery.

Delco Bobby · 02-25-2016, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by awilson2

I finally removed the cover from the battery. I believe this type battery is called a "Sealed Liquid Acid" battery (aka SLA). There are no caps on each cell. The cover has the seals for each cell. I think the cover was originally epoxied to the battery. I now think the problem wasn't overcharge. I believe the epoxy on the cell on the end came free allowing acid to leak whenever the battery was jostled, such as when I move the battery or if I hit a bump while driving the RV. The corrosion in the battery compartment looks like it has been leaking for awhile. When the battery is normally sealed, I don't think liquid or fumes can escape from this type battery. I checked the "Float" Voltage of my Battery Tender. It is 13.3 VDC according to my WalMart Digital Multimeter. I'll probably take the advice and go to WalMart for a new deep cycle battery. I believe those batteries are made by Johnson Controls. I also checked HD but they had no Deep Cycle Batteries.
I'll try to add a photo of the battery and cover so that NO ONE will do what I did to the battery.

That is not the same battery that was in my 2013 Sunseeker 2250 SLEC.

My battery did not have a handle and there were two caps covering three cells for each cap. The caps were positioned length wise along the center of the battery.

Wolverine 1945 · 02-26-2016, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by awilson2

I finally removed the cover from the battery. I believe this type battery is called a "Sealed Liquid Acid" battery (aka SLA). There are no caps on each cell. The cover has the seals for each cell. I think the cover was originally epoxied to the battery. I now think the problem wasn't overcharge. I believe the epoxy on the cell on the end came free allowing acid to leak whenever the battery was jostled, such as when I move the battery or if I hit a bump while driving the RV. The corrosion in the battery compartment looks like it has been leaking for awhile. When the battery is normally sealed, I don't think liquid or fumes can escape from this type battery. I checked the "Float" Voltage of my Battery Tender. It is 13.3 VDC according to my WalMart Digital Multimeter. I'll probably take the advice and go to WalMart for a new deep cycle battery. I believe those batteries are made by Johnson Controls. I also checked HD but they had no Deep Cycle Batteries.
I'll try to add a photo of the battery and cover so that NO ONE will do what I did to the battery.

I am not sure that battery is meant to be opened ???
I am guessing there is no change that it froze ???

pmsherman · 02-26-2016, 01:58 PM

SLA stands for "sealed lead acid", a type of battery that does NOT have a liquid electrolyte. If the case is punctured, these batteries will NOT leak out acidic fluid.

The electrolyte in these batteries is held in a gel material or a glass mat, leading to the battery types: gel cells and AGM. Both of these do not suffer from the stratification issues of a liquid electrolyte which need to be handled with a charger that performs occasional "equalization" to stir up the electrolyte.

Your photo of the battery seems to show liquid in the rightmost battery cell. The presence of acid on the outside of the battery and in the battery compartment is another indicator that this battery is a traditional wet cell lead acid battery. It may be a wet cell battery that's designed to never need water added during its projected lifetime and had sealed caps on it.

Phil

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