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Old 06-17-2016, 12:33 AM   #11
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Use NON leveling no sag Dicore calk on all vertical seams and self leveling on roof and other horizontal panels.
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Old 06-17-2016, 12:55 AM   #12
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The factory uses Butyl tape to bed and seal the tail lights at the factory.
Pull the tail lights and put a perimeter strip of buytl tape and reinstall . Tighten screws in slowly after making contact with tape so tape will oooz out and lamps will be set in the butyl bedding. Then use a plastic knife or similar to run around perimeter of lights and remove excess. It will be permanently sealed. The butyl tape is what your roof penetrations are bedded in to seal the penetrations.
Perfect description
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Old 06-18-2016, 08:22 PM   #13
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Use NON leveling no sag Dicore calk on all vertical seams and self leveling on roof and other horizontal panels.
That is what I did last year and now I need to do it again.
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Old 06-18-2016, 11:08 PM   #14
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That is what I did last year and now I need to do it again.

I would want to know why the calk only lasted one year. Is there an actual gap/ split in the butyl tape that the light housing is bedded in?

I replaced my incandescent tail lights with LED assemblies. They were so stuck on with the factory butyl tape ( they were beded with so much butyl tape that they would never ever leak )I that I had to use a butcher knife to cut and scrape the butyl from the fiberglass while prying out on the light frame with a large screwdriver. It took longer to break the lights loose, clean the old super sticky butyl tape off than to splice wires, run butyl tape around perimeter, set and screw the lights on snug, get a beer and finish seating the lights by tightening the screws a turn or two every 1/2 hr, another beer while watching game between screw tweaking until fully seated. I do not think that they will ever need resealing,
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Old 06-27-2016, 06:46 PM   #15
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If the problem is the same as I had the leak was between the lens and the light body not between the light body and the coach. I filed a small weep hole at the bottom of the lens and sealed the rest of it against the light body using dielectric grease. Been 4 years with no issues and it will be easy to remove the lens if a bulb change is needed.
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Old 06-28-2016, 10:11 PM   #16
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I am surprised that no one has suggested using plumbers putty, it works great! lay a bead behind the lens and reinstall , remove the oozed out putty and good to go. Stops the leaks and you can remove the lens easily if needed.
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Old 06-29-2016, 08:05 AM   #17
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wana65stang:
My SS3170's previous owner made a bit of a mess, siliconing around the outside of the entire lens housing. I think the plummers putty is an idea, are you sealing the whole unit or just the individual lens covers? Thanks.
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Old 06-29-2016, 02:39 PM   #18
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LTRVing you can use in both cases, pull the lamp body away from wall and put a bead behind then reattach , it will conform to the low and high spots then just remove excess that has been squeezed out. Do the same on the lens to lamp body. Easy to remove lens if you ever have to and will keep any water out.
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Old 06-29-2016, 04:06 PM   #19
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Plumbers Putty and Plastic

Quote:
Originally Posted by LTRVing View Post
wana65stang:
My SS3170's previous owner made a bit of a mess, siliconing around the outside of the entire lens housing. I think the plummers putty is an idea, are you sealing the whole unit or just the individual lens covers? Thanks.
I have read elsewhere that Plumbers Putty may react with plastic.
"Most rigid plastics installed using putty will eventually lose their durable, resilient structural characteristics, and become brittle – sometimes brittle enough to break with your fingers."

Here is an article with the reference in it:
Using Plumber‚€™s Putty with Plastics | Sioux Chief Blog
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Old 06-29-2016, 04:20 PM   #20
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Want to re-seal the taillights on my 3010, do not want to use silicone. Any recommendations?
According to what I've been told the stuff used around tail lights, gutter spouts, etc is this:


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