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Old 08-12-2012, 12:02 PM   #41
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Has this problem occurred with any hoses OTHER than Rhino? I am upset they did not design their product to fit a standard 4" port. There must be another company that makes suitable hoses.
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Old 08-12-2012, 01:19 PM   #42
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I'm sure there is but for those of us who bought them, we're out of luck. It's not that I can't buy another brand, it's just something that was a pain and needed mentioning so the next guy wouldn't have the same problem. You'd think that would be a major consideration for this application.
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Old 08-12-2012, 09:46 PM   #43
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The part that needs to be changed out is called a "deck Plate". I just bought one from a boat shop while camping at Lake Erie.
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Old 08-12-2012, 09:56 PM   #44
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Just enlarge the hole and make a cover for it out of alum, plywood, plastic, etc. that swings over the hole and also out of the way. Shouldn't be a major problem to overcome.
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Old 08-13-2012, 10:06 AM   #45
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We just got a new 2013 Sunseeker. So far we've been using the dealer freebie sewer hose. It fits through the deck plate but then again the end is just the hose versus a fitting of some sort. Does it make sense to not buy the Rhino? As I understand the problem, the Rhino won't fit through the deck plate because of a fitting on the end that goes into the sewer.
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Old 08-13-2012, 10:12 AM   #46
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If you read through here, you'll find several people that have "dremel'd" off the tabs to make the hose fit.
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Old 08-13-2012, 01:56 PM   #47
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I like the Rhino because it has covers for the ends to keep the yuck from leaking out when not in use. I store them in a covered plastic container in the compartment just behind the generator on our 2300. The larger "deck Plate" I bought was only $16.00 with tax and title.
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Old 08-13-2012, 02:23 PM   #48
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TFL65 - How did the larger deck plate go in? Did you have the make the opening in the floor of the storage compartment larger?
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Old 08-13-2012, 04:17 PM   #49
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I removed old deck plate screws and plate. Used new plate to mark enlarged hole making use of as much of the old hole as possible. Used sabre saw to cut compartment bottom to size of larger hole (easy to cut). Cut from bottom up if you don't have clearance for saw inside compartment. Inserted new plate reusing old screws. (I used some sealant around plate bottom and screws.) Total job 15 minutes.
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Old 08-15-2012, 04:35 PM   #50
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I did exactly the same as RvBill3 with no problems. Now I just have to figure out where to put the old deck plate.
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Old 08-15-2012, 04:39 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlf65 View Post
I did exactly the same as RvBill3 with no problems. Now I just have to figure out where to put the old deck plate.
Trash can?
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:27 AM   #52
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But just to reiterate, we have requested a mold change for the roto-cast boxes, I believe that is done or close to done and we just need to use up current stock. In the meantime you are free to use any of the remedies mentioned in this post.
As BC has mentioned. We did put in for a change, and have started using the larger 5" holes. This change began in production on Monday.
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Old 09-23-2012, 07:39 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RvBill3 View Post
I removed old deck plate screws and plate. Used new plate to mark enlarged hole making use of as much of the old hole as possible. Used sabre saw to cut compartment bottom to size of larger hole (easy to cut). Cut from bottom up if you don't have clearance for saw inside compartment. Inserted new plate reusing old screws. (I used some sealant around plate bottom and screws.) Total job 15 minutes.
Ditto .....bought 5 inch deck plate at a RV supply place...wonder why they have those. Took out old plate, made template out of cardboard for new plates outline, traced, took roto -zip about 10 seconds to enlarge hole, put in new plate with 7400 rtv on seal area on plate, drilled in self tapping screws back into plate , covered screw thread that protruded in rtv, viola!!! Rhino hose we bought or just about anything will fit now!!
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