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Old 09-26-2015, 04:05 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by BendOrLarry View Post
I never said anything about jacking the slide? I always have said FRAME mount. It would be crazy to push up on a slide.
It would help, no matter if it's a MH or a TT. You have to remember the weight that you have now cantilevered out. It has to drop that side it like triples the weight when extended. A scissor jack is your best option as you have said. You need support under the units frame. Also I would put like 12x12x2" under that jack to give you a bigger foot area. Your on the correct tract in thinking IMO....
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Old 09-26-2015, 04:12 PM   #12
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If you have slides on one side of the unit I always set that side a quarter of a bubble high when leveling then when the slide goes out look at the bubble on mine it shows level. A piece of 5/4 pressure treated is usually enough to get this result.
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Old 09-28-2015, 11:28 AM   #13
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I wouldn't do a scissor jack in the middle of the frame (front to back) personally. That is one of the two areas that have been extended to increase the factory wheel base.

Personally I would only raise the locations that are engineered to bear the weight and load... The Wheels! Seems to me that is the obvious and simple answer to the OP... Throw another board under the tires for that side and be done.
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Old 09-28-2015, 06:00 PM   #14
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I wouldn't do a scissor jack in the middle of the frame (front to back) personally. That is one of the two areas that have been extended to increase the factory wheel base.

Personally I would only raise the locations that are engineered to bear the weight and load... The Wheels! Seems to me that is the obvious and simple answer to the OP... Throw another board under the tires for that side and be done.
I see the situation a bit different than you do. By driving up on a board to counter the frame roll due to the weight of the extended slides, you are still allowing the frame to roll. It seems to me that a jack located mid frame on the slide side that was lowered while the slides were retracted would then keep the frame from rolling putting excess weight on the drivers side springs. I am going to try a scissor jack mounted to the frame I just posted this to see if anyone else had thought of doing the same thing.
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Old 09-29-2015, 07:42 AM   #15
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I see the situation a bit different than you do. By driving up on a board to counter the frame roll due to the weight of the extended slides, you are still allowing the frame to roll. It seems to me that a jack located mid frame on the slide side that was lowered while the slides were retracted would then keep the frame from rolling putting excess weight on the drivers side springs. I am going to try a scissor jack mounted to the frame I just posted this to see if anyone else had thought of doing the same thing.
Please, let us know how it works. I'm interested in doing the very same thing.
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Old 10-01-2015, 12:47 PM   #16
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I see the situation a bit different than you do. By driving up on a board to counter the frame roll due to the weight of the extended slides, you are still allowing the frame to roll. It seems to me that a jack located mid frame on the slide side that was lowered while the slides were retracted would then keep the frame from rolling putting excess weight on the drivers side springs. I am going to try a scissor jack mounted to the frame I just posted this to see if anyone else had thought of doing the same thing.
You are right we are seeing this problem from different angles. I don't see it as your "frame" rolling to one side because of unbalanced weight distribution but as your suspension being more compressed on one side due to the unbalanced load.

I don't believe the problem is with the frame moving/twisting at all. Which is why I recommend against putting forces on the frame to correct a suspension loading/unbalanced problem.

If you raise the wheel(s) on the side that has had its suspension more compressed then the frame will be parallel again (level side to side). Or pump up the air bags on the low side and lower the air bags on the high side.

Another way I look at this is one sides wheels has an increased weight load while the other sides wheels have decreased. So you have two forces at play (compression distance of loaded side plus the decompression distance of the now unloaded side). If you start jacking up the middle of your frame enough to counter act say 1 inch of off level, that part of the frame now would be bearing the load that was once shared between all four corners before you deployed your sides after initially leveling. It's not just 'taking the weight off' as now weight that was once shared between 4 points (by some percentage ) has now been shifted to say maybe 2 points... Plus now the other side has risen up due to the shift in loading.
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Old 10-01-2015, 03:43 PM   #17
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You are right we are seeing this problem from different angles. I don't see it as your "frame" rolling to one side because of unbalanced weight distribution but as your suspension being more compressed on one side due to the unbalanced load.

I don't believe the problem is with the frame moving/twisting at all. Which is why I recommend against putting forces on the frame to correct a suspension loading/unbalanced problem.

If you raise the wheel(s) on the side that has had its suspension more compressed then the frame will be parallel again (level side to side). Or pump up the air bags on the low side and lower the air bags on the high side.

Another way I look at this is one sides wheels has an increased weight load while the other sides wheels have decreased. So you have two forces at play (compression distance of loaded side plus the decompression distance of the now unloaded side). If you start jacking up the middle of your frame enough to counter act say 1 inch of off level, that part of the frame now would be bearing the load that was once shared between all four corners before you deployed your sides after initially leveling. It's not just 'taking the weight off' as now weight that was once shared between 4 points (by some percentage ) has now been shifted to say maybe 2 points... Plus now the other side has risen up due to the shift in loading.
We will have to agree to disagree. This is the exact same issue that is resolved with hydraulic jacks connected to the FRAME to insure the coach is setting level on rigs with auto leveling. Drive up on boards if that makes you happy. I will give a different approach a try. I have been doing it your way and it's time for a smarter solution.
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Old 10-01-2015, 04:00 PM   #18
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Lets us know and take some pictures for the rest of us.

Maybe I just had the wrong picture in my head on what you were asking about. If you are talking more along the lines of how and where auto leveling Jack's are installed... I can picture that. As I've always seen hydraulic leveling jacks mounted along the frame in close proximity to the suspension components. If that's what you are talking about and not towards the middle of the coach frame where it's been extended... Then I can understand.
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Old 10-01-2015, 04:15 PM   #19
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Lets us know and take some pictures for the rest of us.

Maybe I just had the wrong picture in my head on what you were asking about. If you are talking more along the lines of how and where auto leveling Jack's are installed... I can picture that. As I've always seen hydraulic leveling jacks mounted along the frame in close proximity to the suspension components. If that's what you are talking about and not towards the middle of the coach frame where it's been extended... Then I can understand.
I don't think it matters if the stabilizer jack is mount mid frame because we are not talking about tons of weight. As it is now, FR added a front stabilizing jack (one foot) on models with 2 slides on one side. I guess they thought that would help but it doesn't because it's mounted on the center line of the coach. In fact if you have the 2 rear jacks down and the front jack you then put a twist in the frame when the slides are extended. I feel a mid frame jack would stop or reduce the twist and keep the coach level. I have also considered that if the front jack could be remounted from the centerline to be in-line with the driver side frame rail then an additional jack should not be needed. I need to crawl under the coach to see if a better remount is possible.
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