SS 2250 / FR 2251 Bedroom TV add on

[Dp26]

Added one at DW request. The trim piece down the middle of the wall is where a usable stud is. You can feel the stud, and using the shower valve access, confirm where it is with a tape measure. (I have had the wall open as well, so I already knew.) 8lb or less 32 inch from costco, mount I found online.

For cable, I split the line under the bed, back of the place where you plug in the outside line. The antenna does back feed!!!

For power, the particular TV we found needs 19vdc, so a step up converter under the bed, and some additional wires did the job. I already had added a new dedicated circuit to the underbed area on the rear, for a usb, so I tapped into that circuit for the TV.

The mount allows us to easily take off the TV for travel, as well as swivel and tilt. I choose the swivel and tilt mount for those functions, as well as to have a two hole mount which centered on the wall. I suspect we could travel with the TV mounted, as I put my weight on the mount, but we prefer no straps, and no rattles.

[Total Loss]

How did you route the wiring? (cable and 19v)
Run wires under floor from bed area and up shower wall?
Is there a tank in the way?
Photos?

[rebellee]

I'm curious how you routed as well. In addition, how did you account for slack as the slide goes in and out? Would love to see pictures.

[Dp26]

Open the bed "flap". You can see and work easily for the wiring. The only tougher part was adding the new circuit (which I did a year ago), feeding the wired to the front of the box takes patience.

Unsrewed cable port in the storage bin. Passed short wire through hols, attached to port, feed it through the hols, and reattached port. Connected splitter to new short wire, to existing run to the front, and to the new 12' wire for rear tv.

12v power, I had already added a new circuit from the box to the back side of the bed "frame", between the back of the drawers and the storage bin. Added the TV power to this new circuit. Hard wired, with a step up module (12v to 19v, for this particular tv). I bought a second power cord to cut, so I still have the 120v connection if needed. For the gap between the steop up and the power cord end, I used black wire I had on hand, prob 14g, and black with a thin red strip. Black will hide well against the greenish walls. The cable wire is also black.

I fed the wires through a brush like "plate" (Home Depot) to cover the hole in the side of the bed "frame". The plate, sideways, screwed into the existing wood backers. Using the brush place, I can feed the wires back in the dead space if I want. The wires are not affected by the slide at all, since the slide stops just short of the area where I send the wires out. I will likely just unhook the wires, and let them drop on the floor. (Well, they will be on top of, or under the two chairs in a bag that ride in the space between the back wall and the bed, which are just the right size to be below the slide.)

I will probably use some stick on cable holders (round with little sides to hold the cable, easy to pop in and out, and they are black, same area of HD as the cable and plate) to keep the wire against the inside corner of the back and lav walls, up to ceiling, then drop to TV. I got the TV within an inch of the ceiling. (Test measure and fit carefully if you want to be able to easily take TV down.)

I thought about running the wires under the floor and up the wall, but every time you take the wall off, there are ore holes to fill, so I went with the floor. I sleep on that side, and make that side of the bed, so DW does not care what I have on that floor. If I were thinking I would trip or catch the wire, I would use gaffers tape to cover the wires on the floor, since it comes off clean, or run it along the bed frame to the wall under the slide side... but I get in and out of bed on the end, so I use the floor on my side for storage already.

The part which takes the most patience is cutting and fitting the wall seam trim piece. I cut it a bit long, then shaved off the wood with a razor knife, so I could fold over the "wallpaper" and hide the cuts. My mount has a rounded side on the bottom, so this made it easy to fit with no gaps. But, this area is covered by TV, so no worries if it is not perfect.

While I was under the bed...

Added a voltage stabilizer and on/off switch to the CO/LP alarm. I am tired of the thing going off when there is a high battery draw. i do not need that alarm to be my low V sensor, so the stabilizer should reduce false alarms. (High draw for coffee, or hair appliances when on inverter.)

Tapped into the heater vent flex tube to make a small outlet in the under bed area. I feel there is already plenty of "flow" in the existing outlets, so adding a vent to the under bed area will help cut down on cold spots in the bedroom. Plus, that outlet is under the nightstand drawer, and blows directly on one of our dogs (so I had already restricted flow on that outlet, which I have undone now).

I will be out there later today, and will post images later.

[Dp26]

Mount, wire path, brush pass through, step up module, and I replaced the entry door today... photos attached 90 degree to the left.

The positive power wire has red on the ends, which are out of site, and black for the rest of the run so it is less visible.

[wjgri1]

Thank you for the great detailed advice.

Bill

[Dp26]

Proper pilot hole drilling is suggested. The mount I used had screws which were acceptable in length. I made sure to drill proper pilot holes. The stud is likely a 1 by something, so proper pilot hole lessens the chance of splitting. The mounting spot happens to line up with the edge of the shower, so there is more depth available than elsewhere on the wall.