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Old 05-26-2014, 09:23 PM   #1
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Subwoofer doesn't work - new unit

This is a new unit. Unfortunately we missed the fact that the subwoofer doesn't work during the PDI. (Not that the dealer would have had any idea how it works anyways...)

There are no leds lit on the subwoofer.

The subwoofer is turned on in the stereo options.

I have 12.6V on the red wires and .07V on the blue wire at the plug.

What's next on the list to check? And what is that blue wire for anyways?
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Old 05-27-2014, 03:13 PM   #2
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I'll ask the electrical engineering. If you have power there should be LED's...maybe a bad splice on the power line? It is a 12V system. Are you plugged in or on batteries? If low voltage I know sometimes things will start to act funny.

There are also gain/volume controls on the sub woofer itself.
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Old 05-27-2014, 05:56 PM   #3
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The blue wire should be the remote turn on to the sub woofer amp. Check to see if the blue wire is hooked up to the back side of the audio unit, or a volt meter to see if you have power to the blue wire when the unit is turned on. Or you can try a 9v battery to the blue wire to see if the amp/sub woofer turns on. IT is probably just not hooked up at the back side of the audio unit. BTW the blue wire on the audio unit is standard and should be on it. It could also be labeled as power antenna lead.
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Old 05-27-2014, 10:17 PM   #4
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I tested on battery and with genny running. There is a full 12.6V measured between the black and red wires so I'm confident that the battery is good.

With the audio unit on, I only get .07 volts on the blue wire.
Should the blue wire be getting a full 12V when the audio unit is turned on?

Good idea to check with a 9V battery. I'll try that tomorrow night.

Next problem is getting to the back side of the audio unit. I hope the dash comes apart easier than it looks.
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Old 05-28-2014, 07:23 AM   #5
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What sammonilla said,

In addition, this is what I got from engineering....
"Well the red wires are the 12v connection. Its spliced onto a 14 gauge wire that runs to the battery control center (BCC) on fuse F7 (AUX). the blue wire is the remote wire that connects to the rear of the dash radio to turn the subwoofer on when the radio is powered on. So you have done the basics by identifying power coming to the subwoofer. Some possible checks are to pull the subwoofer connector back off and check to see if all pins are pushed into the connector. Also confirm that you have ground on the black wire that’s also in that harness. To check for ground, use the OHM/Voltage meter and put the positive lead on the red or blue wire pin and the negative on the black wire pin. You should read either the 0.07v or the 12v based on which wire the positive lead is on. If these methods have been tried and the subwoofer still doesn’t work then the amp on the subwoofer may be faulty."
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Old 05-28-2014, 10:13 PM   #6
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I am testing the voltage to the red and blue wires using the ground wire/pin from the connector.

I read .07v on the blue wire and 12v on red.

Before I try to get behind the dash radio to confirm a connection, can you tell me if .07v on the blue wire is correct?
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Old 05-28-2014, 10:15 PM   #7
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Yes. Previous post pointed out it should read 12v (power) or .07 (blue signal wire)
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Old 05-28-2014, 10:43 PM   #8
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Thanks. Sounds like I have a dead subwoofer then. Never thought to check that during the PDI.

Problem is the hour plus drive each way back to dealer x2 to drop it off to get replaced isn't worth the gas money. Sucks to be me.
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Old 05-28-2014, 10:47 PM   #9
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Are the connections "sound" at the sub then? Pins are all pushed in properly? On the bright side, have the dealer note it and deal with it when it's convenient. Most of the people have no idea the sub is even there, shouldn't hamper your camping.
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Old 05-29-2014, 05:51 PM   #10
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I'll double check the pins and play a little more. Hiding it under the couch makes it a whole lot of fun to work on.

"Most people" being my wife... she could care less if I get this working. I thought it was a cool feature and was looking to try it out.

We've already camped in it once and both absolutely love the unit. The only major issue was a leak on the water line to the bathroom sink. I was able to fix that without too much trouble. Now I need to work on the "mod" list which surprisingly enough is fairly small.
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Old 05-29-2014, 09:56 PM   #11
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Blue wire needs 12V. .07 doesn't do it.

I jumped 12V from the red wire to the blue terminal and the sub works. Traced the wire back to the audio unit in the dash and there is only .07V at the lead coming out of the audio unit. It's a mess of wires up there and I couldn't tell if that was the correct lead or not so I left it alone for now. I'll put a switch on it or something until I can get it back to the dealer.

P.S. Nice job of installing the module for the backup camera. It was just stuck up under the dash. Fell on the floor hanging by the wires when I removed that part of the dash to get at the audio unit. A few well placed plastic wire ties would have cleaned that up nice. I fixed the loose ground wire too.

Now to figure out how to get the audio unit to output to the TV with a DVD playing.
I'll start another thread for that if I don't find an existing one. Oh ya, the manual for the audit unit is not the correct one for the model installed in the motor home.
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Old 05-30-2014, 08:08 AM   #12
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Which head unit do you have?...never mind. Here's both manuals along with some quick start info.

In either case, you don't really want audio on the TV speakers. I turn those off and use the surround sound to play the DVD's or stereo.

.07 should be correct...that means something is wired wrong. All the blue wire does is tell the sub to turn on. 12V power is provided on its own.
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File Type: pdf VM9726BT Owners Manual.PDF (1.33 MB, 65 views)
File Type: pdf VM9726BTC instruction sheet.pdf (629.1 KB, 69 views)
File Type: pdf M4-LCD-UM Small.pdf (7.16 MB, 61 views)
File Type: pdf Quick Reference M4-LCD.pdf (1.42 MB, 78 views)
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Old 05-30-2014, 08:19 AM   #13
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As for the backup camera camera module. Thank you...that was my idea. I thought why waste .01 cents on a silly zip tie when we can just wedge it in there and close the dash panel. By the end of the year we've saved almost $2.

Either that...or locals have realized where they can acquire free zip ties. that's my story.
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Old 05-30-2014, 08:33 AM   #14
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While I do not know your unit, There may be a blue wire with white stripe on the back of the head unit (The audio unit in the dash) just for turning on amplifiers, while the blue wire only is for power antenna and will turn off (to lower the power antenna) if AM/FM is not selected.

In any case the Blue wire (or with a stripe) should read 12 volts or 14.4 if the vehicle is running.

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Old 05-30-2014, 11:18 AM   #15
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Response from engineering...
Hi there, I apologize for the wrong information. I mistook the low voltage from the blue wire as low current which it should have. To be specific the red wire is (12 volts_15 amps) and the blue wire should be (12v_.5 milliamps). upon digging further into the matter, the customer is right, the blue wire needs 12v from the radio to the subwoofer. At this point there can be a number of reasons why the wire is short on the voltage. But without troubleshooting each possible reason, a simple solution if the customer is willing could solve this. The blue wire is a trigger wire to turn the subwoofer on with ignition power or when the radio is powered on. One way would be to run a wire back to the dash radio which would require the removal of the radio from the dash to gain access to the radios wiring harness. Both (magnadyne and Jensen) dash radios have the same color wire. once the radio is removed, pull the harness from the rear of the radio and on the harness side look for the solid blue wire which is the wire for the subwoofer trigger. I suggest the customer test that connection with the voltage meter before connecting the newly ran wire but that requires reconnecting the harness to the radio and powering it on.
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Old 05-30-2014, 10:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynkage View Post
There may be a blue wire with white stripe on the back of the head unit (The audio unit in the dash) just for turning on amplifiers, while the blue wire only is for power antenna and will turn off (to lower the power antenna) if AM/FM is not selected.
Winner!

The blue wire to the sub was attached to the blue wire. That is only 12V when the head unit is on AM/FM. Of course, I was testing while on satellite so it didn't work. Connected the blue wire from the sub to the blue with white stripe wire on the head unit and it works as expected.

I thank everyone very much for the help getting to the bottom of this. Half the battle was figuring out how it was supposed to work.
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Old 05-30-2014, 10:26 PM   #17
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Thanks also for the manuals. I have a Jensen head unit. I thought I had the wrong manuals for the model but I realized I misread the model numbers. Some of the menus don't match the manual but I figured it out. The pdf versions will be handy.

Also... I think the audio installer must have been preoccupied looking for his bag of zip ties. He had the yellow video in from the TV plugged into the yellow video in from the head unit. That's why the DVD wouldn't play on the TV. Moved it to the video out plug on the head unit and that's now fixed.

Next on the list is to figure out why the Jensen remote for the head unit doesn't seem to be working.
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Old 06-01-2014, 08:13 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jst3 View Post
Thanks also for the manuals. I have a Jensen head unit. I thought I had the wrong manuals for the model but I realized I misread the model numbers. Some of the menus don't match the manual but I figured it out. The pdf versions will be handy.

Also... I think the audio installer must have been preoccupied looking for his bag of zip ties. He had the yellow video in from the TV plugged into the yellow video in from the head unit. That's why the DVD wouldn't play on the TV. Moved it to the video out plug on the head unit and that's now fixed.

Next on the list is to figure out why the Jensen remote for the head unit doesn't seem to be working.

Maybe the batteries are dead.

Glad the rest of it is working for you now!! Enjoy your summer!!
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Old 06-01-2014, 10:52 PM   #19
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The battery is one of those round 3V things. That was the first thing I checked.
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Old 06-01-2014, 11:53 PM   #20
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Does the remote have an LED that comes on or flashes when you press a button?
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