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Old 06-30-2018, 07:22 PM   #1
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Sunseeker A/C Problems

We have a 32-foot 2018 Sunseeker with a 15.5 BTU a/c. It is 95 degrees outside. All windows are covered and shades are down. The a/c has been running steadily for 5 hours and it is still 86 degrees inside.

This is our second trip in our RV. After an earlier trip, we had it checked for blockages because you can barely feel any air coming out of the vents, especially in the bedroom. We were told everything is clear and the a/c is working properly.

Is there anything we can do, or are we destined to only travel in cool weather? Is it possible to add a second unit? How would that work?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-30-2018, 07:56 PM   #2
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We have a 32-foot 2018 Sunseeker with a 15.5 BTU a/c. It is 95 degrees outside. All windows are covered and shades are down. The a/c has been running steadily for 5 hours and it is still 86 degrees inside.

This is our second trip in our RV. After an earlier trip, we had it checked for blockages because you can barely feel any air coming out of the vents, especially in the bedroom. We were told everything is clear and the a/c is working properly.

Is there anything we can do, or are we destined to only travel in cool weather? Is it possible to add a second unit? How would that work?

Thanks in advance.
No, that is not normal. We have a 34 foot camper with Bunkroom and 3 slides, and we have one 15K BTU AC unit. It cools the camper wonderfully even in outside temps in the 90s. Something is wrong. Can you put it on dump and check it? There is always more effort cooling when its going through the Vents.. If you put the unit on Dump so it just comes straight out it should help.
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Old 06-30-2018, 11:00 PM   #3
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The 15k btu air conditioner in our 2017 32' Forester can't keep the interior cooler than the mid-eighties if we're parked in the summer sun.
I had the windows tinted which has helped but plan to paint the 3 skylights with white paint for plastic due to the amount of radiant heat coming from them even with their shades closed.
The only way we could enjoy our unit last summer was to close off the bedroom during the day and put the air conditioner on dump. Of course it never cycled because the thermostat is in the hot bedroom but constant cold air was great even if noisy. The fridge liked it too. Good luck finding your issue.

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Old 07-01-2018, 08:23 AM   #4
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Thanks for the info. What do you mean by dump? We can’t find anything in manual about that.
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Old 07-01-2018, 08:32 AM   #5
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Open the vent right on the bottom of the ac unit so the air blows straight out of the unit rather than the vents. So that the unit is “dumping” air straight out. Also, the foam “pillows” that push up into the vent as well as smoke or black vent covers help immensely. Trust me - I live and camp in Florida year round!
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Old 07-01-2018, 08:47 AM   #6
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Thanks for the info. What do you mean by dump? We can’t find anything in manual about that.
There is a panel on the downward face of the a/c that slides maybe 1/2 inch. It blocks the downward "dump" vent and forces the air out the vents that are spread throughout the ceiling. The space above the ceiling is hot so the air ducts absorb this heat and reduce the cooling effect. My experience with low airflow and poor cooling suggests a separation in the ducts. Additionally, a dirty blower wheel can have the same effect.

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Old 07-01-2018, 09:17 AM   #7
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All of the above advice is good. One more thing: After purchasing my current TT, which is a 30 footer, I had a hard time cooling it as I thought it should be cooled and I'm in SW Ga. I removed the plate that the A/C filter is in and the "dump" vent, this plate is the air distribution box or ADB. I found the the areas where the cooled air goes in to the duct work in the ceiling were not sealed off to prevent cooled air from entering the so called "attic" of the TT. I used aluminum tape to cover these gaps. I also removed all six (6) ceiling registers to inspect them and found that between the duct work in the ceiling and the actual ceiling panels there were gaps allowing cooled air to enter into the attic area. Sealing off all these areas where cooled air could escape helped a lot. I eventually decided that the one 15K unit just was not big enough for this 30 footer with two slides so I added another 15K unit. I used the vent over the bed and ran a direct wire to the new A/C which I plug into the 20 amp electrical outlet on the power pedestal. This has worked very well for about two years now.
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Old 07-01-2018, 10:45 AM   #8
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What’s the make and model of your rig, Carole?
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Old 07-01-2018, 11:15 AM   #9
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Sorry too many conversations going at once lol! I meant 2 buddies - sorry about that!
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Old 07-01-2018, 11:29 AM   #10
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Your 2018 has the Atwood which is supposed to cool better than my Dometic. With 95 degrees outside and full sun our inside temp will rise to 82 degrees. I have the insulated cushions on the vents, reflectix on the rear window, covers for the inside of the door and also the shower skylight as well as "Heat Shields" on the windshield and driver/passenger windows. I also purchased a sun screen for the awning which seems to help. It also helps to run the generator and turn on the AC on the way to the campground so you don't have to cool down the interior and remove as much humidity when you set up at the campground.

The DW hates the heat and gets uncomfortable with anything above 75 degrees so I just purchased a Fridgidaire 12,000 btu portable that I am going to retrofit and use at the Mayberry FROG rally on the 12th. Hopefully that will solve the problem and keep her happy.
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