Sunseeker Owners ??

[Snowman9000]

Originally Posted by RvBill3

I added a swivel base to the passenger seat on our 2012 2300 Chevy. As others said, it gives more seating options besides U dinette. (Driver seat would swivel into the back of the dinette on 2300 so I didn't bother with it.) Found the source for swivel base on this forum. Easy to install. Added less than an inch to height of seat.

Bill, did you use the one from Discount Van and Truck?

[RvBill3]

Yes that was the one. Easy to install, comes with high grade bolts. Better with two people simply to handle the weight of the seat. The activator level sticks out the front between passenger legs. It was too long. Easily cut off with hacksaw and added a plastic cap to it ("screw protector at Home Depot") to cover sharp end. It is easy to rotate with door open. A little tight but possible to rotate with door closed.

[Snowman9000]

thanks Bill! I was concerned about how close the "house" cutout is going over and besides the seat, wondering if it made the seat too confined once it is swiveled. But I think I'll go ahead and order it.

[Snowman9000]

We got a good look at the gutter draining above the cab door thing today, when we went thru a truck wash. Thanks to this thread, I was able to slide into the door without out filling the map pocket with water runoff. It seemed like maybe a 3" extension would make a fairly big difference in how far the door could be opened?

[gsevilla]

Took delivery one week ago. Living room 42" TV does not work. On four door fridge, right door does not latch. I will need to take it in to dealer to fix when the parts come in.

[4Gcampers]

Is the TV a Jensen 12V? If so, check the cigarette plug adapter. If the light isn't on the plug, it's burnt out. I go through about one a month (or each trip).

[gsevilla]

It is a Jensen. I'll check that when I get home. Thanks for the tip.

[bclemens]

The 42" TV is not 12v. Too big. The 32" are all 12v however.

[doctinker]

Originally Posted by 4Gcampers

Is the TV a Jensen 12V? If so, check the cigarette plug adapter. If the light isn't on the plug, it's burnt out. I go through about one a month (or each trip).

4GCampers , is it the plug or the fuse that burns out? Does this TV draw too much for the circuit? Do you think there is a fire risk?

Thanks

[gsevilla]

Originally Posted by bclemens

The 42" TV is not 12v. Too big. The 32" are all 12v however.

I checked the back and found the power plug wires to the TV are spliced with wire caps. The wires run into the cabinet so I couldn't see where they go. I also noticed there's a 12v plug on the outside of the cabinet (next to the cable tv plug) that is not being used.

Another thing I noticed is that there's a blue light that comes on when I press the power button on the TV, the screen flashes for a second, and then goes dark. So there seems to be power going to the TV.

And finally, the same TV is mounted on the outdoor entertainment center and it works perfectly.

Conclusion: Bad TV? or Bad wiring?

[4Gcampers]

Doctinker, it's the actual plug that melts. I've taken apart and found each one melted inside, causing the tab that holds a spring and fuse in place to fail. Once that happens, it's dead. My 22' led is always fine, but the 32" burns them up. Jensen says the plugs were defective and have been replaced, but the new plugs look identical and burn up two. I have bought numerous replacements on Jensenrvdirect.com to have spares on hand. My dealer was having a rash if them burning up too, so they started carrying them. I might direct wire the 12v TV and bypass needing an adaptor plug.

[doctinker]

4GCampers, is it a proprietary plug or a cigar lighter type adapter?

[MrJoe]

I may have my first issue that I can't solve myself. The door is hitting the jamb in most situations. I can't figure out how to adjust it. )-:

[bgilly]

Originally Posted by MrJoe

Attachment 45720

I may have my first issue that I can't solve myself. The door is hitting the jamb in most situations. I can't figure out how to adjust it. )-:

There are screws in the hinge plate on the coach hinge side that can be tightened to pull the door frame in some.
I also recall screws inside the door frame that can used but keep in mind that the sealant will work against some adjustment or movement.
I found that the levellers will distort the coach frame to some degree so check your level before making adjustments.

[MrJoe]

I tightened the hinge screws to the point that I was afraid of stripping them. Was wondering if the hinge could be tweaked/bent some to pull it over? I'm not seeing an easy way to do it. I agree the sealant is not helping me.

[bgilly]

Then it's time for the dealer to step in.
You can remove the inside trim cladding to see if there is any clearance but my thinking is you need about a 1/4" adjustment which will likely make the need to re-seal.
There have been comments in the past about doors being square and problems with the factory getting good doors from the supplier.

[MrJoe]

Thanks bgilly for the advice.

[Snowman9000]

I finally cast my vote. We have several problems which will require dealer attention. Many of them, I could do myself. A couple are more serious. I don't want to be a skunk at a garden party here, so before listing them I will say that we like our Sunseeker. I feel there are too many defects though. Some are by component suppliers.

-Dream dinette table lock needs to be repositioned to keep table fully up.
-Dinette base needs to be moved slightly to allow table to seat into the bed position.
-Dinette top only attached to wall end of the support with 3 screws. They work loose.
-The poly bases of the outdoor storage compartments: At 3 doors, most of the screws that were supposed to go into the body sidewall, missed. The screws were below the body, so the sides of the compartment bases/floors were unsupported. It looks like there is a dimensional mismatch between the supplier's poly base and the body, causing the installer to miss the body when driving screws. But the installer should have noticed. I had to use a jack to push the bases up so that the flanges were high enough to catch the body with the screws.
-Bath door striker not able to latch at full depth. Door keeps popping open during travel.
-Fuse box door pops open if you even look at it.
-FW fill tube runs up, then down. You can't fill directly from the fill port. You have to run a bare-ended hose about 2' into the tube.
-Genset switch seems to have a mind of its own. Its light comes on and a relay or the starter starts chattering at the genset. Push the stop side of the switch and it stops.
-Battery cover/step gasket not applied right, not sealing. It's not even close, the installer was very shoddy, the gasket missed two corners by about 3 inches, just running across open air instead. It could have moved but I don't think so.
-Entry door binding on a black plastic wedge near the top, flexing the top of the door away from being able to seal.
-Can see light around bottom of entry door.
-A piece of corner trim is loose (interior).
-Ladder mount flanges are bent/warped/torqued by screws driven at angles during install. Leaving gaps to catch water.

That's it for now, but even today I've added to the list. The entry door concerns me the most. The others are small stuff I could fix myself.

The range vent flap is tough to lock and unlock. Maybe it will get easier or I'll get the hang of it. Even though it locks tight, it rattles, a lot, in the wind going down the road. I've actually taken the screen off the inside of the hood while the wife was driving, and verified it was the flap. I will pick up a piece of the right size pipe insulation to stick into the vent cover to keep it quiet.

[markangie24]

I know sometimes it is hard to get to the dealer to get the needed repairs. However, for what we paid for these rigs I will go out of my way to utilize the warranty. I can fix most problems but should not have to if I still have the manufacturers warranty. I guess trying to get what I actually paid for!!

[KQ2N]

As can be seen by the posts in this thread, owning a motor home is much like owning a house. I think half the fun is trying to figure it out and doing minor repairs. Major warranty issues however should be done by your dealer.

I have a 2860DS. A few months back I asked on this forum if anybody had the same problem as I did with the outside kitchen door warping and not being able to close properly. It seems like I was about the only one to have the problem. Finally got a new door under warranty, painted to match my unit's full body paint.

The propane regulator seems to be my bane. First RV had one that just went defective on a trip. Was close enough to home that the dealer came up to replace it. On the second RV just last year this time, the regulator developed a crack on our trip south. Had to scramble to find a RV parts store (Camping World) to replace it. I now carry a spare regulator!