When we first got out Sunseeker, we had the same problem with the bottom sticking out what seemed like too far. We would also get a fault code when retracting. When we took it in for service the technicians found that the motors were wired backwards so to speak.
It seems as though whoever installed motors 1 and 2, drivers side rear and front (yes the front motor drivers side is the number 2 motor) had installed the number 1 motor and wiring harness in the front and the number 2 motor and wiring harness in the rear.
So what did the installers do when the slide out motors ran backwards when they pushed the slide-out control button? Instead of making sure that the number 2 harness went to the front, they just reversed the wiring on the connectors to make the motors move in the correct direction so the button would work properly. The controller needs to have the motors located per the instructions or it messes with the controller sequencing.
If your a DIYer, trace the number 2 motor wire from the controller (located in the driver side lower outside compartment over the wheel well) and make sure it goes to the driver side front motor (right behind the drivers seat).
If it goes to the rear motor instead, the motors were wired backwards and you have a controller sequencing problem.
Need manuals on the Swintek/Power Gear slide out?
https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/...3010002813.pdf
https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/...g-82-s0533.pdf
There are two more pieces of documentation that tell you how to test the motor encoders but unless you're real good trouble shooting steer clear of them. If you're good at and find these necessary, do a search for them. The documentation numbers can be found on the above two items.
Once this mess had been straightened out and the controller re-calibrated the slide closed in to an acceptable position. Although the gap top to bottom on the slide is not the same in the front, the slide does pull in far enough to provide a good seal.
When it is fully extended there are a few spots where you can see light coming in at the bottom of the slide BUT that is a weather stripping issue and I still haven't quite figured out how to correct it to my satisfaction.
As far as trying to make the front gap even when closed, it is my understanding that the factory is not sure whether they can. The cause could any of a number of issues. It could be that the aluminum framing for the slide-out was not quite squared when welded together, or when the sheeting was applied. It could also be that the drive rails are not installed absolutely perpendicular to the outside edge of the slide out or the gearing is one tooth off, or a number of other manufacturing issues.
If your slide-out performs smoothly without any binds, closes to provide a good seal, but still has a gap difference top to bottom, DON'T MESS WITH IT for you may end up causing even more problems trying to make it look real nice.
Hope this is of some help, Sherman and Murelene