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Old 08-09-2015, 10:13 AM   #1
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Tire Valve Extenders

Posted this over on the tech talk section, but maybe I'll get better response here?

-------

Looked in lots of places on the forum, but can't find an answer. I know someone will be able to help me here.

I am getting steel valve stems put into all six of my tires on out Sunseeker. I need to get extenders put on all the tires as well. I know that they need to be stainless steel, but don't know the length or angle needed.

Also, after these are installed will be adding TPMS.

Please advise. Thanks.
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Old 08-09-2015, 10:17 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 757Dave View Post
Posted this over on the tech talk section, but maybe I'll get better response here?

-------

Looked in lots of places on the forum, but can't find an answer. I know someone will be able to help me here.

I am getting steel valve stems put into all six of my tires on out Sunseeker. I need to get extenders put on all the tires as well. I know that they need to be stainless steel, but don't know the length or angle needed.

Also, after these are installed will be adding TPMS.

Please advise. Thanks.
Why not install stems that don't need extenders. Gets rid of a possible problem area and TPM sensors can be mounted directly to the stems.
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Old 08-09-2015, 10:42 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Mikegjax View Post
Why not install stems that don't need extenders. Gets rid of a possible problem area and TPM sensors can be mounted directly to the stems.
Thanks for your response.

That would make sense, but the way the tires are now, I can't even check the front tire pressure without removing the hub caps. Rear inside dually isn't even reachable without an extender and the outside dually has the valve on the inside side wall instead of the outside one.

I was hoping that someone who has this configuration and has already solved this problem and is using a TPMS could give me some advise.

Thanks again for your response.

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Old 08-09-2015, 11:02 AM   #4
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I had braided extenders on the old and now the new
Basic kit RV parts dealer sells is universal
My problems Stopped when I added these
I riveted the valve end brackets (included) on to the round hub part of the hub cap so they don't loosen or move
Make sure they s through the wheel openings and don't rub the hub cap openings
I only did the rear tires
I just used the short steel extenders on the front
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Old 08-09-2015, 11:06 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by trdutch View Post
I had braided extenders on the old and now the new
Basic kit RV parts dealer sells is universal
My problems Stopped when I added these
I riveted the valve end brackets (included) on to the round hub part of the hub cap so they don't loosen or move
Make sure they s through the wheel openings and don't rub the hub cap openings
I only did the rear tires
I just used the short steel extenders on the front
Thanks. Sounds like a plan. Link? Photo?
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Old 08-09-2015, 11:59 AM   #6
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I had rubber valve stems on my 04 Winnebago and replaced them with short metal ones. Then I tried the metal screw-on valve extensions from CW but they leaked. I had the braided extensions that the MH came with on the rear duals.
I bought valve extensions for the front, "J" shaped ones for the outer rear duals and truck HD 5-1/8" valve extensions for the inner duals with support boots.. These won't ever leak. Bought from Borg Tire Supply. Tireman also has his own specially designed set for MH's. Here are the stock numbers for my Ford E-setries 16" wheels:
2 of VH515BC Chrome outer valve stem .453 triple bend
2 of HAHE392 Truck valve extension EFF 5-1/8"
2 of VHRG2 Dually valve stabilizer round Ford E
Dave

Note the advantage of this is the fronts and inner rear duals can be rotated along with the spare. The outer rear duals can only be changed sides because of the obvious shape of the stem.
ALSO, the rear steel wheel liners would not go on as the J shaped valve gets in the way. I had to trim off about a 1/4" of the valve stem HOLE to make it fit.
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Old 08-09-2015, 02:17 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Sagecoachdriver View Post
I had rubber valve stems on my 04 Winnebago and replaced them with short metal ones. Then I tried the metal screw-on valve extensions from CW but they leaked. I had the braided extensions that the MH came with on the rear duals.
I bought valve extensions for the front, "J" shaped ones for the outer rear duals and truck HD 5-1/8" valve extensions for the inner duals with support boots.. These won't ever leak. Bought from Borg Tire Supply. Tireman also has his own specially designed set for MH's. Here are the stock numbers for my Ford E-setries 16" wheels:
2 of VH515BC Chrome outer valve stem .453 triple bend
2 of HAHE392 Truck valve extension EFF 5-1/8"
2 of VHRG2 Dually valve stabilizer round Ford E
Dave

Note the advantage of this is the fronts and inner rear duals can be rotated along with the spare. The outer rear duals can only be changed sides because of the obvious shape of the stem.
ALSO, the rear steel wheel liners would not go on as the J shaped valve gets in the way. I had to trim off about a 1/4" of the valve stem HOLE to make it fit.
Thanks so much! I'll print this and get busy shopping!

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Old 08-09-2015, 03:24 PM   #8
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Anyone have problems being able to add air in any of their valve extenders? Both my outer rear tires no problem but the inner tires won't take air. These extenders are factory installed and don't have valve caps on them. When I depress the small chrome nipple just a little on the outer tires, air releases right away, when I do the same to the inner tires, I have to depress the nipple a long ways in before air releases. Needless to say I can't add air at this point to the two inner tires. Any ideas?
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Old 08-09-2015, 03:56 PM   #9
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Ben, that's why I bought the 5-1/8" valve extensions from Borg. Screwed on metal valve stem and uses stabilizer boot for support. Tried sending photos, but having problems resizing.
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Old 08-09-2015, 04:11 PM   #10
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I always thought metal vaalve stems came in all kinds of different liengths and angles. Have you tried a place that specializes in truck tires to see whats available to use that you might not need extenders?

I don't havea motor home but my father owned some commercial trucks and he always had long angled stems and no extensions on his tires, both inside and outside duals.
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Old 08-09-2015, 04:23 PM   #11
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Borg is now:
Your Tire Shop Supply | Supplies for Tire Shops

Here are photos:
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Old 08-09-2015, 04:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strat56 View Post
I always thought metal vaalve stems came in all kinds of different liengths and angles. Have you tried a place that specializes in truck tires to see whats available to use that you might not need extenders?

I don't havea motor home but my father owned some commercial trucks and he always had long angled stems and no extensions on his tires, both inside and outside duals.
Thanks for the suggestion. I took my MH to a truck service center (they work on everything from the big rigs (18 wheelers) to RVs and Smart Cars . They didn't mention angled stems. Just the metal stems and then getting the extenders. I'll call tomorrow and see if they have any suggestions about this item.

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Old 08-09-2015, 04:29 PM   #13
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Thanks for the photos! That helps.

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Old 08-09-2015, 04:46 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by benagi View Post
Anyone have problems being able to add air in any of their valve extenders? Both my outer rear tires no problem but the inner tires won't take air. These extenders are factory installed and don't have valve caps on them. When I depress the small chrome nipple just a little on the outer tires, air releases right away, when I do the same to the inner tires, I have to depress the nipple a long ways in before air releases. Needless to say I can't add air at this point to the two inner tires. Any ideas?
Probably yours are "non pressurized" extenders
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Old 08-09-2015, 05:08 PM   #15
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Probably yours are "non pressurized" extenders
OK, now something else to check on. Please help us understand the difference and what to look for when purchasing extenders, BTW, thanks for responding to the thread.

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Old 08-09-2015, 05:16 PM   #16
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Hose extenders come in two basic types.
Pressurized and Non-Pressurized.

The non-pressurized ones have pin and long rod that runs from the outer end with what looks like the normal valve core. Pushing on the outer valve core stem pushed the rod that is supposed to then push the valve core on the valve stem on the wheel. Sometimes it is difficult to push on the outer end enough to actually open the real valve core on the stem on the wheel. If you are having problems adding air or getting a good pressure reading that is probably your problem.

Pressurized hose extenders press on the tire valve stem and open the primary valve core in the stem on the wheel. You can hear a little air leak as you attach these hoses but the leak should stop once the hose is properly tightened.

Proper tightening of the hose extender would normally be 1/2 to 1-1/2 revolutions after air leak has stopped. You should not need tools or pliers to tighten the hose sufficiently. Over-tightening can damage the very small O-rings in the valve system.

Outer ends of extenders need to be solidely attached. Especially longer (4" +) extensions.

Here is my current setup.

This shows the angle bracket that is riveted to the metal wheel cover and my TPM Sensors on the outer end. This took some figuring as you do not want the hose to touch the wheel or hub cap. In my case I needed a secondary 120° angle metal extender to get the hose properly oriented.
Here is my previous set-up.

NOTE the picture was taken without my TPM sensors installed.

I had 28,500 miles on this prior system with no problems or leaks. Since I have TPMS, if there are any leaks I would get a warning as soon as I lost 3 psi so am not worried about low pressure tires.
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Old 08-09-2015, 05:39 PM   #17
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Here is what is sometimes supplied as an OE hose extender.


This is non-pressurized extender. I can see the tire valve end pin open when I press on the outer core pin. This one shows the spring holder that is suppose to stabilize the hose. The spring clips in the hand holes of the outer wheel. This is well and good but I know I received no advice or warning of a need to hold the hose when adding air or checking pressure when I picked up the new coach last month from General RV Center so doubt that the walk through at other dealerships is any better about proper tire maintenance. After all my "Quality" Forest River dealer delivered my coach with every tire low and 3 of the 6 were low by 12% to 20% even though I was charged over $1000 to "prep" the new Coachmen.

Even on my riveted hoses I stabilize the hose with one hand and use the air chuck or hand gauge with the other hand.

I think many of the problems people have with various hoses and extenders is they simply jab the air chuck against the valve which will flex and weaken the rivets or may loosen the hose itself. After all what worked when the occasionally checked air in their car once or twice a year with the 1-1/2" long valve stem and 35 psi should be good enough with 110 psi and a 15" hose right?
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Old 08-09-2015, 06:25 PM   #18
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Thanks Tireman9 for the info.

I've just spent the last hour looking at you web site. Great information! I've searched but can't find the 120 degree extenders, just 45, 90, 135. I'm guessing you meant the 135?

How can I tell if an extender is pressurized or non pressurized if I'm ordering online?

Don't mean to be a pest, just new to all of this and trying to do it right the first time!



Again thanks for your response!
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Old 08-09-2015, 07:19 PM   #19
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The valve extenders that came on our unit are metal and look like a good quality. Just curious why the inner ones don't work as good as the outer. I do know they are a lot longer than the outer ones. May just have to go to a tire shop and have them pull the wheels and take a look.
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Old 08-09-2015, 07:49 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by 757Dave View Post
Thanks Tireman9 for the info.

I've just spent the last hour looking at you web site. Great information! I've searched but can't find the 120 degree extenders, just 45, 90, 135. I'm guessing you meant the 135?

How can I tell if an extender is pressurized or non pressurized if I'm ordering online?

Don't mean to be a pest, just new to all of this and trying to do it right the first time!



Again thanks for your response!
Not sure if you can tell the difference without opening the package.


I am trying to get some clarification from one manufacturer.

Note the "non-pressurized" hoses are sometimes called "airless"
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