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Old 10-10-2017, 05:59 PM   #41
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If you take the fill port loose from the outside wall and pull, the attached hose will come with it. Cut off enough hose to get the turns out and reattach to the back of the port. Reinstall the port to the outside wall and caulk.
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Old 10-10-2017, 06:32 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by markb422 View Post
If you take the fill port loose from the outside wall and pull, the attached hose will come with it. Cut off enough hose to get the turns out and reattach to the back of the port. Reinstall the port to the outside wall and caulk.
Great recommendation.
Obviously, caution is advised for fear of "losing" the hose down the rabbit hole. Perhaps pull the fill port an inch or so, harness the hoses with some zip ties to create a handle and a loop one could hook onto...or something similar.

I've worked on this hose, and it tends to shrink back, so you may be surprised how much extra there is if you pull gently and steadily. Be sure you have an extra pair of hands to help hold things as you cut and remake the connections.

If possible, double check the hose clamps on the tank to ensure they are secure before you attempt this.

Again, great recommendation.
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Old 10-15-2017, 03:12 PM   #43
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Beware. I found my vent hose clamp on the hose but not clamped. Do a search on my post on 7/15/17 "water leak". Fixed the problem but now run the water down to the first sensor. On our coach I can access my water tank under my bed.
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Old 10-15-2017, 06:33 PM   #44
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If the water fill hose has a spiral reinforcement rib wound around the outside surface, it can be difficult to seal and may leak when the water level is above the inlet in the side of the tank. I could not stop the leak by tightening the hose clamp, because the hose clamp doesn't apply enough pressure in the low spots between the hard spiral ribs, allowing a leak path. Sealing it effectively requires removing the hose from the nipple, drying the parts, smearing RTV sealant on the hose ID and nipple OD, reinstalling the hose and clamp, and letting the sealant harden to fill any leak paths. I now fill the tank until the outside neck is overflowing, and don't have any leakage. Although the vent hose is nice and round, small diameter hose clamps don't always apply uniform pressure, and it can benefit from the same treatment if it leaks.
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Old 10-17-2017, 09:48 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoglou View Post
Beware. I found my vent hose clamp on the hose but not clamped. Do a search on my post on 7/15/17 "water leak". Fixed the problem but now run the water down to the first sensor. On our coach I can access my water tank under my bed.
So far no leaks but shortening the hose sounds like a good idea. After I finish my block wall maybe I'll try that. Thanks for the heads up.
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Old 10-18-2017, 09:00 AM   #46
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yep

Underdog, you are correct. Time to rework... I knew better, but age is tak'en a toll. I even skipped waxing the house air condensor this year..
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Old 10-18-2017, 02:58 PM   #47
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Old 10-18-2017, 02:59 PM   #48
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Maybe why mine doesn't vent.
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Old 10-18-2017, 05:07 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Underdog View Post
If the water fill hose has a spiral reinforcement rib wound around the outside surface, it can be difficult to seal and may leak when the water level is above the inlet in the side of the tank. I could not stop the leak by tightening the hose clamp, because the hose clamp doesn't apply enough pressure in the low spots between the hard spiral ribs, allowing a leak path. Sealing it effectively requires removing the hose from the nipple, drying the parts, smearing RTV sealant on the hose ID and nipple OD, reinstalling the hose and clamp, and letting the sealant harden to fill any leak paths. I now fill the tank until the outside neck is overflowing, and don't have any leakage. Although the vent hose is nice and round, small diameter hose clamps don't always apply uniform pressure, and it can benefit from the same treatment if it leaks.
Just curious. Did you use a conventional hardware store hose clamp or one like they use at the factory? I won't elaborate, but a splice repair I made in a similar line does not leak. Perhaps I just got lucky.
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Old 10-18-2017, 05:57 PM   #50
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That is all factory install. I was referring to the smaller hose being kinked. Is that not the vent hose?
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Old 10-18-2017, 10:47 PM   #51
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Fresh water Vent

OK. Thanks for the clarification. It seems like the factory install issues should be added to an inspection list. That's what happened were I used to work. Thanks for the good ideas.
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Old 10-19-2017, 05:24 AM   #52
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That is all factory install. I was referring to the smaller hose being kinked. Is that not the vent hose?
That is the vent hose, and I found mine crimped as well. I installed a 90 degree elbow that I bought at Lowes. Worked fine after that.
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Old 10-19-2017, 07:45 AM   #53
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A few days after we got our Sunseeker home we had to remove the outside shower box because we could not hot water,,, found the line crimped to the point where not water could get thru !!! I took the line soaked it in hot water to remove the crimp,,, then soaked it in cold water,,, then very carefully reinstalled the shower box !!!
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Old 10-25-2017, 04:44 AM   #54
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Old 10-25-2017, 04:45 AM   #55
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Cedar creek woody did as you sugested problem solved.
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Old 10-25-2017, 06:09 AM   #56
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Looks great!
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Old 10-25-2017, 07:55 AM   #57
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I think that these issues with gravity feed fill hoses and vent hoses lead to the manufacturers to go to a pressure fill. The gravity setup was restricting where the fw tank and fill port could be located. With the pressure fill and check valve, they are free to locate the fw tank and fill port just about anywhere and do not have to make the gravity fill port higher than the top of the tank.
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Old 10-25-2017, 08:17 AM   #58
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I had trouble getting our Sunseeker to take Antifreeze last week,,, even though the air vent was clear,,, the antifreeze did not want to go down !!! So next year I will be adding a hose to my funnel !!!
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Old 10-25-2017, 08:36 AM   #59
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Wolverine, I am surprised that your MH has a gravity feed. On our last TT we had gravity feed and I made a funnel with a hose just long enough to snake all the way through the fill hose and into the fw tank. I used a rubber, washer supply hose which was flexible and cut the end on an angle to make it easier to snake through the fill tube. There are funnels that have a hose bib connector at the bottom so you can attach with the female hose end. I kept the funnel and hose in a large zip lock bag to keep it clean between uses.
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Old 10-25-2017, 08:42 AM   #60
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I made a hose,,, 2 to 3 feet long for when I add water,,, works very well,,, still a slow feed !!! Never had trouble adding antifreeze before !!! Will be looking for one of those funnels that I can conect to my hose !!!
Thanks Mark !!!
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