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Old 05-18-2014, 03:19 AM   #21
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Old 05-19-2014, 07:11 AM   #22
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bclemens I'm confused. What do you mean new model? I have a 2014 3050s that I got in June 2013. The unit I have has the selector box for the 3 TVs. Do you have a schematic for the selector box configuration. So no wall plate. The date on your schematic is Jan 2013. Although mine has the selector box.
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Old 05-19-2014, 09:18 AM   #23
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The date on the schematic was when we were drawing it up, it does not necessarilly indicate the date it was implemented. It was a running change.

If it yours had the switch box, the booster was built in. I'll see if I have a schematic for it. The booster has ben posted on here several times. It is a Magnadyne selector box.
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Old 05-19-2014, 09:30 AM   #24
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Thanks. I'm not sure where the booster is located. At the coax in or selector.
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Old 05-19-2014, 09:37 AM   #25
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The booster is built into the switch box.
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Old 05-19-2014, 03:40 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowreyfarris View Post
I have a tailgater that has to be wired directly to the satellite receiver box. From my understanding you can't use any splitters because the Vip211 receiver sends a DC signal out on the coax to aim the dish. Since my 3170 was not wired for satellite from the factory I only have 1 outside/park coax input. I still want to be able to use park cable when we camp places that have it without unhooking my box. So I wired in a 3 coax wall plate from Home Depot that works like a splitter, I just run a jumper wire from the bottom coax to the top for satellite, and the bottom to the middle if I want to use park cable (basically taking the satellite receiver out of the loop). Moving the jumper is much easier than taking the receiver out and unhooking everything.
You're right, you can't use a splitter, but you should be able to use an A-B coax switch. Instead of moving a jumper, just move a switch. I plan on using one on my new 3010 when I get it.
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Old 05-20-2014, 02:07 AM   #27
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I tried an A/B switch that was several years old and it did not work. It may not have been rated for the higher frequencies though, a new one may have worked.
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Old 05-20-2014, 11:17 AM   #28
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I tried an A/B switch that was several years old and it did not work. It may not have been rated for the higher frequencies though, a new one may have worked.
I haven't tried it in the RV yet, (I won't have it for another month) but I did try it at home and it worked fine. The switch I used was also an old one I had laying around in the parts bin. I also have a Tailgater and my receiver is a VIP211K, which I also use at home.

I anticipate it will work in the RV too, but to be safe, I'll test it before I make things permanent.
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Old 05-20-2014, 10:33 PM   #29
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With the help of this thread I went out in the driveway today to attempt setting up the Direct TV sat dish, tripod and receiver and it all went as planned.

I hooked the sat dish directly up to the park cable jack outside the bus, went in and found the short jumper coax, disconnected that, then connected the coax for the power inserter (for SWM Direct TV) into the upper coax I removed the jumper from.

Turned on the front TV and sat receiver and then spent a while aligning everything and it worked great.
I'm not sure if it will turn out to be the same upper coax outlet for everyone but on our's it was.
Hopefully when we get to the park it's just a matter of setting up the dish and aligning it, which can be time consuming.
I determined that a few of the phone apps for aligning the thing are almost worthless. Satellite Finder / Dish Alignment Calculator with Google Maps | DishPointer.com was the most helpful.
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Old 05-21-2014, 09:14 AM   #30
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Although there are many work around solutions on this post with many very workable solutions it seems to me LoweryFarris has the best solution for the long term and allowing the most options. I will say after camping and now RVing for over 40 years I have stayed at very few places with the cable options. I prefer the state and national parks. Therefore its satellite or antenna (jack with surelock) for me.
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Old 05-21-2014, 09:42 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by raoulwv View Post
I haven't tried it in the RV yet, (I won't have it for another month) but I did try it at home and it worked fine. The switch I used was also an old one I had laying around in the parts bin. I also have a Tailgater and my receiver is a VIP211K, which I also use at home.

I anticipate it will work in the RV too, but to be safe, I'll test it before I make things permanent.
I use an "A"/"B" coax switch with my tailgater/VIP211K receiver system. It works just fine. I connect my tailgater to the park cable input and use the A/B switch (park cable connected directly to switch input mounted in the overhead along with the VIP211K) to route either park cable to tv input selector or to VIP211K receiver for its coax output to my tv input selector. I only have SD (not HD) sat to the tv because an HDMI cable is not routed to the tv but SD is fine for us. None of my existing coax for this install is associated with the roof antenna/booster/switch panel and therefore do not have to worry about booster on or off.
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Old 05-24-2014, 04:24 PM   #32
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I can not get my remote to my Vcube to communicate to sat get an EO error. New batteries and checked everything book said. Was going to call King Controls today Saturday but only open M-F til 6. Does anyone know if there is a reset switch on the remote or anyone experience this before?
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Old 06-29-2014, 07:06 PM   #33
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VuQube-anyone had problems where the remote will not communicate with the cube? get a backward 03 error on remote.
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