Wander and Sway

[gmatti1947]

We have a 2014 Sunseeker 3010DS. What can we do to eliminate the wander/sway we get whenever anything from a Smart Car to a Tracker Trailer goes by us?

[jrwalkerpa1]

The first thing is to check that your tires are properly inflated. Then put about 60 pounds in the airbags. That's the easiest to do and makes a difference. The next step is to get it aligned to the tighter than Ford specs that you can find on this forum. We have a 2015 3010ds and after doing that it handles very well. There are other things you can try but these give the most bang for the buck.

[Brian217]

I will have to say the best thing I've done is add the Henderson rear trac bar for what you are talking about. Our last trip was the first time I had it on our 3010 and I'll have to say what a huge difference. Every time I could see an 18 wheeler approaching I would get ready for the back end to start to wag and it never did. It was a 4 hour trip with plenty of vehicles passing us and not once did I feel the usual wind effects of any type of vehicle. I also added the safe t plus to the steering, but didn't notice a big difference with that. When it wasn't windy conditions driving I thought the back and forth steering seemed less, but on the way back on our trip it was an extreme cross wind and I had counter steer a lot. I think they make an add on to center the steering from inside the cab in those conditions, but I didn't purchase that yet. But again, for what you're talking about the rear trac bar is exactly what will take care of the tail wag with vehicles going by.

[ATVer]

Originally Posted by jrwalkerpa1

The first thing is to check that your tires are properly inflated. Then put about 60 pounds in the airbags. That's the easiest to do and makes a difference. The next step is to get it aligned to the tighter than Ford specs that you can find on this forum. We have a 2015 3010ds and after doing that it handles very well. There are other things you can try but these give the most bang for the buck.

Agreed. X2 on this. When you get it right the MH feels and handles like driving a big car.

[Brian217]

I will have to say I agree with jrwalkerpa and atver that your motorhome should be set up correctly first. I'm very careful with checking air pressure in tires and air bags and had the alignment done to the specs on this forum. I was always happy with the ride under normal conditions, but was never satisfied with feeling I got when being passed by a vehicle, especially 18 wheelers. I figured for less than $1000 for the rear trac bar and safe t plus it would be a good investment for a better overall ride. The next thing I'm going to do is the Bilstein heavy duty shocks. Again, I'm happy with the overall ride, but under certain conditions some of these add ons make a difference.

[EXTremist]

X2 on the trac bar...huge difference.

[Boso]

Just drove over 1900 miles with 3050s the worst driving vehicle I have ever drove all over the road bags set at 70 psi let down to 45 psi drove better the last 400 guess I will have to carry pump find the best spot as far psi and add Rear Track Bar didn't drive this bad before the alignment tire pressure was perfect 75-80 psi 99% interstate driving open to suggestions




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[ATVer]

Originally Posted by Boso

Just drove over 1900 miles with 3050s the worst driving vehicle I have ever drove all over the road bags set at 70 psi let down to 45 psi drove better the last 400 guess I will have to carry pump find the best spot as far psi and add Rear Track Bar didn't drive this bad before the alignment tire pressure was perfect 75-80 psi 99% interstate driving open to suggestions

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Did you align to the specs listed in this forum or just to Ford specs? You should have received post alignment (as left) data from the shop so you can post here or compare yourself to the specs recommended here. Changing air bag pressures can affect both caster and camber settings but only slightly just like loading of cargo and people in the coach. I measured my coach heights front and rear at the time of alignment and adjust bag pressures so that the coach's stance is the same when loaded at the beginning of each trip.

[Boso]

The alignment was done with about 2000 miles on unit to specs listed on forum fully loaded when aligned 70 psi in bags but so far my bags seem to leak down didn't have air chuck to fit them one at 65 psi one at 50 psi both at 80 psi when I left set at 45psi the last 400 miles seem to do better dealer said couldn't find leak before I left this was in a 15day period


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[ATVer]

Sounds like you did it right. If you verified the "as left settings" really meet the criteria on this site then other than something coming loose or the front stabilizer not aligned properly are all I can think of at this time. My shop had to align my stabilizer properly, the tech saying he sees them out of adjustment often. If the shop did not provide you with a printout of the "as left setting" then you really don't know where it is set. Modern equipment today generates the printouts so it's not something that can easily be fudged.

[Boso]

Is there a chance that air leaking on one side faster than the other side in bags could cause that much sway say 60 and 75 psi for the bags


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[Boso]

Here are the alignment specs that the front end was set at Camber R-0 L-1/2+ Caster R-5 1/2+ L-5+ Toe 1/16+


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[ATVer]

Originally Posted by Boso

Here are the alignment specs that the front end was set at Camber R-0 L-1/2+ Caster R-5 1/2+ L-5+ Toe 1/16+


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Close but the data noted above does not fall within the ranges specified in this forum. R camber at 0 should be 1/8 to 1/2 positive and the camber offset (R to L) at 1/2 is higher than the specified 1/4-3/8 degree. Doesn't seem to me that the small differences would make that much of a difference but people report it does.

[Boso]

What reason would a alignment shop not go to the exact specs if it could make that much difference I assumed that his equiptment told him where it needed to be they had the specs off the forum but you are saying they should be even closer than they are and no reason not to be


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[ATVer]

Originally Posted by Boso

What reason would a alignment shop not go to the exact specs if it could make that much difference I assumed that his equiptment told him where it needed to be they had the specs off the forum but you are saying they should be even closer than they are and no reason not to be


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The specs off this forum are not the specs an alignment shop would have since they are not the same as those specified by Ford. Ford's specs have a larger range and tolerance to the settings and THE Forum specs provide criteria on cross camber and caster settings. Thus the specs provided in the Forum are within the Ford tolerances so you would not be contrary to Ford.

Within a few miles I knew my 2012 was not right. However when I took it to an alignment shop they test drove it first and said what is your concern since it drives as good or better than most Ford based RVs they have worked on. We checked it and it was within Ford specs but I said there has to be a way to make it better. I worked with the tech and came up with some adjustments (didn't know about the Forum specs that came out later) which by some skill but mostly luck made a world of difference. Turns out the changes we made were similar to the Forum specs.

Long answer but that's why. The twin I beam suspension used is strong but was designed in the 50s and technology has improved. When Ford swaps over to the new transit style it should handle better and be less finicky. Ford is the only game in town for the big Class Cs so they have no reason to engineer the replacement and it's only for a few thousand sales.

[Boso]

I did have the specs from the forum but the man thought the handling would not change much from where he was at and was trying to keep the tire wear down but will re adjust to specs next week and add a blue Ox track bar also if it is in by then at this point I don't care as much about tire wear


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[ATVer]

Originally Posted by Boso

I did have the specs from the forum but the man thought the handling would not change much from where he was at and was trying to keep the tire wear down but will re adjust to specs next week and add a blue Ox track bar also if it is in by then at this point I don't care as much about tire wear


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For some reason some owners have to add after market bars etc to get it handling to their liking while others are lucky and can get it handling car like with stock parts. I really want to swap out my steel wheels with aluminum for better looks and unsprung weight reduction but am concerned that I might mess up my great handling since the wheel offset/backspacing is slightly different. Hope you have good luck with your changes and can get your unit feeling the way you want it.

[Boso]

You are very fortunate had 2 diesel pushers they drove great but that was freightliner chassis


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[old rv man]

I owned a 2005 ford excursion and spent a lot of money trying to get it to trac correctly.There is very few shops know how to work on strait axal fords.I have owned many motor homes class a and c with ford platforms and had many proplems with handling. This time I bought a class C 32 foot with a chevrolet 4500 And it handles like a car.it was also abought 2000 dollars less than ford v10. Ford knows they have proplems with there suspension and does nothing abought it .my new coachmen came with air bags and trackbars and indipendit front suspension.