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Old 11-11-2014, 07:44 PM   #31
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If anyone posts a pic of their water pump, lines, and valves, I'm sure we can sort it out.
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Old 11-11-2014, 09:00 PM   #32
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Sounds the same other than I have two blue lines coming out from underneath the frame. I'll post pictures when I go back to the storage yard.
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:08 AM   #33
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I also have two blue lines. One capped and one with a valve (fresh water tank)
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:25 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by rsscully View Post
I also have two blue lines. One capped and one with a valve (fresh water tank)

Okay, good to know!
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:49 PM   #35
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Bottom line...if you remove the cap from the line under the MH, open the valve on the line next to the water pump, remove the anode from water heater, and remove the water filter canister, you will have drained all the water out of the system. With a little help by adding pressurized air to the city water inlet and opening each faucet, you will have all the water out of the system.


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Old 11-13-2014, 11:13 AM   #36
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RVBILL...
Do you put in RV antifreeze after draining everything or just in the traps? And, I'm guessing you blow it out BEFORE you remove the heater anode, is that correct?

I wonder if there are any plumbing diagrams of the various models, and how to winterize various models. I was told mine is plumbed with the heater bypass but that wouldn't be the first bad info I have got from the dealer... I have the 2014 2860 DS with outside kitchen and 4 door refrig with icemaker. I've never found the line to the icemaker where peeps say its supposed to be.

Just got back from a 2500 mile trip down sunny south into a below freezing SE Washington State weather and have never winterized it before. got to get going on the winterization ASAP LOL
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:36 PM   #37
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RVBILL...
Do you put in RV antifreeze after draining everything or just in the traps? And, I'm guessing you blow it out BEFORE you remove the heater anode, is that correct?

I wonder if there are any plumbing diagrams of the various models, and how to winterize various models. I was told mine is plumbed with the heater bypass but that wouldn't be the first bad info I have got from the dealer... I have the 2014 2860 DS with outside kitchen and 4 door refrig with icemaker. I've never found the line to the icemaker where peeps say its supposed to be.

Just got back from a 2500 mile trip down sunny south into a below freezing SE Washington State weather and have never winterized it before. got to get going on the winterization ASAP LOL

I open the drain valve next to the water pump. I remove the heater anode and use an attachment on a hose (long thin tube available from Camping World, etc.) to flush out the water heater--lots of sediment comes out. I bypass the water heater. I remove the cap on the red drain line under the MH. I attach an air line to the city water intake and apply 40psi of air. That blows most of the water out of the system. I open each faucet (one at a time) until only air is coming out of them. I move the air hose to the black tank flush connection for a minute. I remove the water filter (and discard) and replace the filter canister. I close all faucets and drains. I use the antifreeze valve that I installed (see picture in post #10 above) and turn water pump on. I open each faucet until some pink is flowing out of it (and outside shower, and toilet). I pour a little more antifreeze down each sink, shower drain, and toilet. Total of about 2 gallons used. Total time (moving slowly and carefully) less than an hour.


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Old 11-14-2014, 12:13 AM   #38
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Thanks RVBILL3
That's what I did except I have to get a fitting for the pump. My 2014 2860DS pump sets further to the left (looking at it) than your pics and the inlet fitting is behind the access panel. I might have to remove the panel but looks easy if I can't pull it out enough.

are the pump fittings standard 1/2" pipe threads?

When I pulled out the anode I was surprised how ate up it was with only a few trips on it. Pitted deeply all along the length and maybe 50% all around behind the threads. bought new in April this year. Just never saw one go that fast.

You mentioned putting antifreeze in traps and toilet. Do you mean putting it in by flushing till pink comes out or just adding a little extra to the black tank thru the toilet hole? or both?

Thanks

Ron
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Old 11-14-2014, 05:41 AM   #39
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Water Tank Drain 3170

In the picture of mine (post #10) I have removed the white panel (3 screws) in the back of the compartment. I pour some antifreeze into each sink just to make sure the trap got filled, even through running through the faucet has already put some down the drain. The toilet needs some down into the tank, but it is also important to put a couple of inches in the toilet bowl itself. You don't want the seal to dry out or crack from freezing, or you will have to replace it.

The winterizing kit includes everything you need (and see in the picture). Only other thing you will need is two new clamps for the white hose since you are removing it and shortening it. Reusing the existing clamps is just asking for a leak.

A pitted anode rod means it is doing its job. It will shrink in size as it deteriorates. When it is less than half its original size, its time to replace. I have replaced mine every second year.

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