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Old 09-25-2007, 10:59 PM   #31
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Wow, I could have jumped in and answered this early, but all I saw in the pic was your knife valve and figured you'd figure that out. Yes iot is your low point water line drains. There is no reason for the caps to be on as tight as that. Once you loosen them off and drain the system you can reinstall the caps just to finger tightness (By the way, open your taps inside to fully drain the lines, and it will take forever to drain the hot water unless you pull the hot water heater drain plug first)
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Old 09-26-2007, 07:37 AM   #32
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Thank you very much for the information.
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Old 09-26-2007, 07:55 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wengerda View Post
Thank you very much for the information.
Sometimes it's like pulling teeth to get the info but........ It'll happen eventually.

keep us posted

greg
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Old 09-26-2007, 09:25 AM   #34
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Maybe if we drank more we'd have faster ideas and aswers?
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Old 09-26-2007, 01:43 PM   #35
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That's a theory worth testing!
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Old 09-26-2007, 01:44 PM   #36
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By the way when I winterize the camper, I understand that I have to remove the o-ring from the city water connection, etc, do I have to do the same with the fresh water connector? I do understand to open the faucet prior to, for the release of pressure and make sure that the water pump is off. Right?
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Old 09-26-2007, 02:10 PM   #37
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why would you remove the o rings? There is a detailed winterization list somewhere in the forum
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Old 09-26-2007, 02:21 PM   #38
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Not sure what you mean by O ring. But if it helps, here is a pretty good overview of how to winterize your water system. http://www.fiberglassrv.com/winter.html
I should mention though that when it refers to the antifreeze intake line and valve located on the intake side of your water pump, there often isn't one of these valves or any built-in provisions for getting antifreeze in. You can buy or make a hose and fitting to go on the intake side of the pump. Disconnect the connection from the fresh water tank and replace with this and stick the hose into the antifreeze jug, then run the pump to pull the antifreeze through the water lines to all the faucets. BUT, be sure to by-pass your water heater before you do this or you'll end up with all your antifreeze sitting in it.
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Old 09-26-2007, 02:27 PM   #39
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Just a thought, but for the first time, it might be better to hire someone to winterize or offer a beverage to a seasoned camper to help do it. Watching how someone does it is the best way to learn. It really isn't complicated, but screwing up can get you into a lot of repair work next season.
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Old 09-28-2007, 07:48 AM   #40
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Okay, I finally did it. It took me two set of pliers and a lot of muscle to remove the caps from each low point hoses. I know for a fact that this caps were never removed previously for winterization. I have two blue hoses in the same side of the black/grey valves, and 2 hoses (blue/red) in the opposite side of the camper.
Now I know how to empty all the hoses; next I checked my water pump and there are two fittings, one fitting, the hose goes straight to the fresh water tank, and the other one goes to everything else. When I purchase the winterization kit, I am assuming I will installed it in the fitting that is not going to the fresh water tank. Next, thing, before I winterize and use the anti-freeze, I remove all the water, water heater plug, and low point hoses. Then I dump my black/gray water tanks. Then I will by-pass the water heater after removing all the water from it, and start pumping anti-freeze to the lines by opening and closing each faucet. When I am done, do I have to open the low points caps again even though I empty each low point prior to introducing the anti-freeze? Finally put a cup or so on each trap. What about the city water/fresh tank connectors outside the camper, do I really have to remove that little black o-ring and push the white button on it? What about if I do not mess with that? I know that previously, all the 'professional" rv technician never messed with that.
I guess this is all what I am doing this year by myself. I will let the rv technician, replace the oil/filter for my Onan microquiet 4000 generator.
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