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Old 12-28-2013, 11:06 PM   #1
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Where is water pump on 3170 DS?

Trying to winterize for first time but can't even find water pump. Also, do I need to pick up anything other than antifreeze? Any type of hose? Can I get it at WM?
In Naples, Fl., for the week. Heading back to Michigan first thing Monday.
Any other tips welcome. Gulp!
Thanks!
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Old 12-29-2013, 08:21 AM   #2
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Is it really so elusive?
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Old 12-29-2013, 08:42 AM   #3
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On my 2011 3170 it is on the passenger side 2nd compartment from the rear . there is a black access panel that opens up to the water filter the pump is to the left of the filter.
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:09 AM   #4
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Awesome. Will look. Thanks.
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:25 AM   #5
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You will have to remove the back wall panel which means removing about 6 -8 screws to get to the inlet of the pump. Also the filter should be removed and a plastic water bottle placed in it's place to reduce the amount of antifreeze you will need. Don't forget to air blow or hand pump antifreeze into the city water connection as it is a pretty long line that won't get filled by the pump due to the check valve at the inlet.
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Old 12-29-2013, 10:42 AM   #6
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Found pump. Took out every panel back there but cannot find a hose to put in the antifreeze. My FIL is very experienced with RVs and he can't find it either. Help again please?
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Old 12-29-2013, 01:50 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Found pump. Took out every panel back there but cannot find a hose to put in the antifreeze. My FIL is very experienced with RVs and he can't find it either. Help again please?
There is none unless a winterization kit was installed by the dealer or a previous owner. The Sunseeker does not come with one standard. If a dealer or RV shop has always winterized the unit, they have a separate pump to pump the antifreeze in through the city Water Connection so a kit is never needed.

It seems you have not done this before. You also need to drain and bypass the water heater. That requires a large socket wrench to take out the anode/drain plug. Bypass valves (3) are on the back of the water heater. If you don't drain it you will need 4-5 gallons of antifreeze just to address the 6 gallon water heater tank which would only dilute it to about 0 degrees protection.
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Old 12-29-2013, 01:56 PM   #8
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There is no hose on this unit at all (trust me, we took all the panels off in the back storage unit where the water pump is).
You have to put the antifreeze in the fresh water tank, turn on the pump and turn on the faucets until pink stuff comes through).
When I have a little more time, will write it all up so other Sunseeker 3170 owners don't have to go through what we did.
Thanks
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Old 12-29-2013, 08:18 PM   #9
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No one that I know recommends putting antifreeze in the fresh water tank as it takes a lot to flush it all out in the spring but you could. Don't forget the outside shower and crack all the drains (which are dead legs) to get pink stuff out there as well. Make sure the coach and tank is sloped toward the pickup or it might take 5-10 gallons of antifreeze just to get the pump to pick it up. If you don't drain and bypass the water heater you will likely use close to 10 gallons anyway to flush and protect the hot water side.
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reinita View Post
There is no hose on this unit at all (trust me, we took all the panels off in the back storage unit where the water pump is).
You have to put the antifreeze in the fresh water tank, turn on the pump and turn on the faucets until pink stuff comes through).
When I have a little more time, will write it all up so other Sunseeker 3170 owners don't have to go through what we did.
Thanks
You had (2) posts going at the same time on this (Winterizing) members answered you in both posts and you chose to put (Pink Anti-Freeze) in your F/W Tank? There are plenty of (write-ups) on NOT doing it! Youroo!!
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:58 PM   #11
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Here is what you need to do to get antifreeze in. Buy (at camping world or other RV store) a winterizing kit. The pictures show my water pump before and after installation of the kit. A hose (included) attaches to the brass valve after removing the cap and goes into a jug of antifreeze. Turn the valve on the kit and run the pump drawing from the jug instead of the water tank.Click image for larger version

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Old 12-30-2013, 08:51 AM   #12
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Here is what you need to do to get antifreeze in. Buy (at camping world or other RV store) a winterizing kit. The pictures show my water pump before and after installation of the kit. A hose (included) attaches to the brass valve after removing the cap and goes into a jug of antifreeze. Turn the valve on the kit and run the pump drawing from the jug instead of the water tank.Attachment 44271Attachment 44272
This is a Very (Reduced) flow mod. The Diameter thru the valve is 1/2 the size of the (Smaller Drill bit shown). The (Larger drill bit shown) is the Factory supply line ID. If you like (Less Flow) place one of these (Valve kits) on the supply side of your Pump! Youroo!!
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Old 12-30-2013, 10:27 AM   #13
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I've asked for the winterizing kit to be made a standard part of the build.
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Old 12-30-2013, 05:13 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youroo View Post
This is a Very (Reduced) flow mod. The Diameter thru the valve is 1/2 the size of the (Smaller Drill bit shown). The (Larger drill bit shown) is the Factory supply line ID. If you like (Less Flow) place one of these (Valve kits) on the supply side of your Pump! Youroo!!
This would be true if the pump is a centrifugal type. However I think the pump is a positive displacement type pulling through an oversized line. Thus the valve restriction should have a minimal or small impact on normal pump flow. I didn't notice a difference when I installed one of these kits.
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Old 12-30-2013, 05:46 PM   #15
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Quote:
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This would be true if the pump is a centrifugal type. However I think the pump is a positive displacement type pulling through an oversized line. Thus the valve restriction should have a minimal or small impact on normal pump flow. I didn't notice a difference when I installed one of these kits.
There is only (1) suction inlet line to the pump,that also has to flow thru the (diverter valve). Where is this (Oversized line) you speak of attach to the pump? Youroo!!
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Old 12-30-2013, 05:53 PM   #16
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Quote:
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There is only (1) suction inlet line to the pump,that also has to flow thru the (diverter valve). Where is this (Oversized line) you speak of attach to the pump? Youroo!!
What I'm saying is the factory line to the pump suction is larger than the pump needs to pump normal full flow.
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Old 12-30-2013, 07:07 PM   #17
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I have noticed no problem with flow since installing the valve. First season didn't have it--this past season did have it. No issue with adequate water flow.
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Old 12-30-2013, 07:30 PM   #18
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Thanks for the additional tips. Will investigate getting the kit installed. In my defense, our unit's manual's instructions on winterizing specifically say to do so by putting the antifreeze in the water tank. We were trying to avoid that by doing as was suggested on several posts (I spent about 3 hours reading the board before posting in the first place). Unfortunately, we did not know our unit was not set up to avoid putting the antifreeze in the tank. Now that I know we can have something installed, we'll do just that.
In the meantime, we do know how to clean out and sanitize our water tank, so that won't be a problem in the spring.
Thanks, everyone, again for always being helpful in our most boneheaded times of need!
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