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Old 10-30-2015, 11:17 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Garrette View Post
IMHO air or antifreeze are two different methods to winterize. I consider air to be used in the southern climates like me, SC and antifreeze is used in northern climates. .....

I live in SC and use the air method. .....

I will say this, we had cold weather last year that made me fire up the furnace with thermostat set to 45, opened all under cabinet doors just for insurance. Just my ramblings on this subject.
A few more ramblings...

The air method is great in southern climes because you might get a nice weekend once in awhile and you don't incur cost and hassle of dealing with AF when taking the rig out for a day or two.

Also, I sometimes use automotive AF in traps, since I don't drink out of the grey tank. Saves a trip to the store.

And I have put a space heater in the trailer when it's really cold, say around 20 F. If it's predicted to go down near zero I will break down and do the pink stuff. But I think that's just to reduce worry on my part...
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Old 10-31-2015, 01:42 AM   #32
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Recommend if you blow the lines with air to leave all the faucets open when you are done. Any moisture left in the workings of the faucet will then have a place to expand into, if it should freeze, and not damage the faucet.
Never been an issue for us and -40 is not uncommon in these parts. If using the air method, take your time and pump lots of air through the system. Move around the RV and cycle the faucets/taps open/closed a number of times. Moisture will migrate and you want to ensure that when you're close to being done, there's noting but air being expelled from the plumbing appliances.
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Old 10-31-2015, 01:44 AM   #33
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Come on y'all, join us.
I'll be thinking about ya's when it's -20 and the snowblower is red-lined.
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Old 10-31-2015, 02:03 AM   #34
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Oh, The pink antifreeze is biodegradable.
Which "pink" antifreeze? The ethanol based antifreeze or the propylene glycol antifreeze?
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Old 10-31-2015, 12:57 PM   #35
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I blow the system out and use about 2 gals of RV anti freeze. I am in GA and we do use our RV in winter and need to re winterize upon storing.
Heed warnings of trapped water. I had a small amount trapped in the plastic elbow feeding internal flow to the toilet. HELLO!! The result, cracked elbow and water spewing like Niagara Falls!
Thus, I do both now. Air first which takes 15 minutes and then water heater bypass and RV antifreeze.
For $6 (2 gallons at W Mart) a lot of no worry! Takes 10 minutes to pump that anti freeze in there, tops!
I HATE SURPRISES!!
I take the antifreeze from the water filter housing and pour it down the sink traps. Of course the filter element was trashed. One more new one and then?? Either remove it or just leave it and install the hose style filter before anything ever enters the RV....so many choices ! 👍
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Old 10-31-2015, 01:13 PM   #36
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I'm baffled at why I keep seeing this question. Do people really want to intentionally pour all the AF they just put in their lines all over the ground?
it's polypropylene glycol . non toxic they even use it to make food stuff like ice cream . the off brands will have more ethyl alcohol then glycol still harmless .
I would leave my unit once pumped full of AT pressurized till spring and not drain off till then . but that's just me . never a frozen pipe in camper or my house that i have winterized for a couple winters while working out of town .
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Old 11-01-2015, 09:46 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by FordHauler View Post
Pulled my RV out of the garage today to winterized it. DW is putting some things in and next week it will go to Florida until April.
Winterization surely is a pleasure.
Come on y'all, join us.
Travel safe

I prefer this winterizing method! But I'm 365 days from retirement so one more regular winterize.

I blow out the lines first, should use less antifreeze that way.


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Old 11-02-2015, 02:04 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by jeffreymhardy View Post
I'm a little confused about something, and I have no doubt the good folks here can clarify for me.



In the owner's manual that came with my DS3010, here are the steps they outline for winterizing with air:



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Note that there is no mention of doing anything with low point drains. There is another thread going here about where those are, and I've read that, I'm just wondering if that is something I need to mess with or not. Logically, it seems like there would be water sitting there that will have nowhere to go with air pressure, so it should be part of my routine.



Advice?

It my be like our new 2401R, the fresh water tank IS the low point drain. All the fixtures drain into the water tank and the one blue low point drain is the drain from the fresh water tank. Obviously other models have different set-ups so check yours carefully. Look underneath for any low point drains. Open the fresh water tank drain valve (located inside the water pump access panel) and see where that drains out - you should see a blue drain line. Look for any others.
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Old 11-04-2015, 12:11 AM   #39
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On my 3170ds if you blow out the lines through the city connection the pump is left with water in it. You have to unhook the water lines. This year I added the antifreeze valve so it will be protected from the pump out. I can blow air through the hose or just use the pink stuff.
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Old 11-04-2015, 01:13 AM   #40
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Winterizing with Air

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Originally Posted by Fozzy View Post
On my 3170ds if you blow out the lines through the city connection the pump is left with water in it. You have to unhook the water lines. This year I added the antifreeze valve so it will be protected from the pump out. I can blow air through the hose or just use the pink stuff.

Several instructions say to run the pump after blow out to be sure to push out any water, or to run pump for a bit while blowing out which makes more sense so any water still in the pump gets into the lines and then pushed out.

Also if you do pump in antifreeze yang the internal pump then of course the pump will get fully protected that way.
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