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Old 09-21-2015, 07:23 PM   #1
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Winterizing with Air

I'm a little confused about something, and I have no doubt the good folks here can clarify for me.

In the owner's manual that came with my DS3010, here are the steps they outline for winterizing with air:

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1.) Drain the fresh water tank and empty the waste water holding tanks.

2.) Turn the water heater bypass valve to the ‘bypass’ position. (This valve is located near the water heater incoming lines, at the rear of the water heater. The water heater is usually located in a base cabinet, in the kitchen, and it may be necessary to remove an access panel to reach the bypass valve.)

3.) Drain the water heater.

4.) If you have a water filtering system installed, remove the filter from the assembly and discard. (You will need to purchase a new one and install it, when de-winterizing your unit.)

5.) Open all faucets, including shower head sprayer, (if applicable), toilet flushing device, and any other water lines that are closed.

6.) Turn on the water pump for at least 30 seconds, to clear any water from the lines.

7.) Connect an air hose with an adapter (blow out plug), to the city water fill connection.

8.) Set the pressure to no greater than 30# (pounds) and blow out the water lines until no water can be seen coming out of the fixtures and lines.

9.) Pour RV anti-freeze into drains, p-traps, toilet and tanks.


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Note that there is no mention of doing anything with low point drains. There is another thread going here about where those are, and I've read that, I'm just wondering if that is something I need to mess with or not. Logically, it seems like there would be water sitting there that will have nowhere to go with air pressure, so it should be part of my routine.

Advice?
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Old 09-21-2015, 07:32 PM   #2
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I would agree open the low point valves as well as the faucets to allow as much water to drain out of the lines as possible. Then close the low point valves and blow the water out as you say, then after the air open the low point valves again and let any water drain out.
By the way I always use the RV antifreeze approach as well as air and it has worked well for 29 years.
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Old 09-21-2015, 07:51 PM   #3
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Sounds like good advice. This will only be my second year with an RV and last year I had an older MH and used all anti freeze. I was hoping the air method (with anti freeze only in the drains and traps) would make it easier for me to go back and forth if I want to camp a few weekends in winter
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Old 09-21-2015, 07:52 PM   #4
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If course another piece of advice I have heard is to leave the MH winterized but use antifreeze to allow toilet use
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Old 09-22-2015, 04:39 PM   #5
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I did it just like you described including the recommendation to open low point drains
Here in the Carolina's total antifreeze in the whole system is overkill
I also keep a small electric heater on thermostat to keep the interior above freezing as a backup
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Old 09-23-2015, 02:17 AM   #6
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We have been winterizing our Minnie Winnie using the air method and p-trap anti freeze only for years and no problem here in northern Utah. Will have to see soon what method we will use on our new 3171.
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Old 09-23-2015, 02:38 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffreymhardy View Post
Logically, it seems like there would be water sitting there that will have nowhere to go with air pressure, so it should be part of my routine.
Indeed, open them up too. Don't forget the outside shower (if applicable) and remember to turn those taps off when done. With the exception of the p-traps and the toilet valve, we've never winterized with antifreeze. Blowing out the system works well for those five or so months of winter hell that has us thinking that mother nature really hates us.
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:41 AM   #8
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I also winterize using the air method because our winters are mild and we camp all winter prettty much. I dint even bother to winterize unless I know there's a big cold front coming and it's going to be colder than 28 deg. and yes 20 deg. that's a big cold front for us. LOL
Open those low point drains and also when I'm blowing out the lines I have the DW opening the valves for me inside the RV one at a time, that gets more air velocity to each valve instead of all being open at once.
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:56 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by jeffreymhardy View Post
If course another piece of advice I have heard is to leave the MH winterized but use antifreeze to allow toilet use
This is what I do here in NJ. We never drink the water from the tank anyway, so on a nice weekend in the winter months we can still make use of rv.

I do blow out the lines and then add antifreeze after just to make myself feel better. It doesn't take that long.

Good luck,
Don
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:05 AM   #10
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Helpful responses, guys, thanks. For those of you who cold-weather-camp, do you keep your rig winterized and just bring bottled water? or do you just winterize and dewinterize each time you go on a trip?
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