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Old 07-31-2013, 08:50 AM   #1
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Yikes Electrical Gremlins 2014 3070DS

I would love to know if anyone has covered this ground and can save me time on my learning curve.

Symptoms......
1) Loud interferance coming from the center consol AV unit. Sounds like a throbbing sound almost like record skipping......loud enough to interfere with the watching of a movie. screen on DVD player flashes on and off
2) distintively dimmer lights running off of the 12 volt system
3) power to slide outs and awning controls rapidly losing power

Turning on truck ignition (after waiting 1 minute) alleviates symptom 1 and 2) ...presumably I am dealing with a dead battery and alternator from engine is giving RV battery a boost.....still cannot operate slide-outs

RV dealer replaces converter.....Seemingly happy they found the problem only to have recurrance next weekend out which actually standed RV because power to slide-outs was lost and stuck in out position.

RV dealer is now saying converter fine, cables to under stairs battery were loose causing poor connection adn pssoble shorting out.

Clues

1) The 12 volt system fails at the same time that under stair batteries are draining of energy....(seemingly battery is not recharging)
2) Recently replaced (as per recall notice received from Forest river) Battery Isolation Manager componet on the battery center circut board (located to left of stairs). Our electrical problems started right after this change-out occurred....I think that is the root cause but really shooting into the dark
3) distinct popping sound from the battery center circut board when the truck engibne re-engages 12 volt system (see note above).


I remain unconvinced that we have identified the root cause of the system...

The dealer is scratching their heads and starting to lose interest in my problem.......


Any experience or insight would be appreciated
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:35 AM   #2
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1. My Magnadine in dash unit also whines when turned on. Sounds like something is spinning inside the unit. It spins then stops and spins then stops for about 15-20 seconds. I thought maybe this is the Sirius XM Satellite trying to pull in a signal. But mine does stop in less then a minute.

3. It would be best to plug into shore-line or run the generator before operating any slide. I do not operate my large slide until plugged into the campsite power source.

But it does sound like you have some electrical issues. There is usually a slide controller with an over-ride function for slide operating errors.
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:49 AM   #3
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Thanks......The sound coming from the AV system sound smore like a UFO invasion through the speakers than it does a whirring sound.....I had electricals plugged in .....power to slide-outs still failed (came part way in and then petered out...iei there was not a sudden stop so there was no fuse proble....it is exactly like a cordless drill when the battery needs replacing).....Turned on generator no impact. RV dealer says the slide-outs operate on the 12 volt system. The only inference I can make is that the 12 volt system in some way needs the battery system working (at least charging).....Otherwise I am back to questioning the converter.

VERY FRUSTRATING
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:24 AM   #4
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Welcome to FR ownership. As to the post about the magnadyne, the noise when the unit starts may be normal. Mine does the same way. Sounds like an old PC firing up. As the other electrical issues and AV interference, I have some similar gremlins. Light switches blow the fuse to the TV, subwoofer pops, etc...
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:42 AM   #5
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My understanding about the electrical system. When you are plugged into shore-line the Convertor takes over and supplies a balanced 12 volts to the RV. Yes, the Slide motors are 12 volts. House batteries are only used if you are dry camping I believe?

When I first drove my new RV to my shop I plugged into 30 amps. Every component had power both 12 volts and 120 volts. A few days later I found out my house battery switch was OFF. Interesting in the OFF position my RV was getting all it's 12 volt power from the Converter. But the House Battery Switch needs to be on for your batteries to charge!

BTW...I downsized from a 40 foot Diesel Class "A" and the inverter had to be operating to get 120 volts. The four house batteries were used all the time to power 12 volts to the coach. So, the inverter/charger was constantly charging my house batteries.

Sounds like your Battery Control System still has a problem.
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Old 07-31-2013, 11:24 AM   #6
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Pieces starting to fall into place.....According to FR (awesome conversation), the battery system acts as a "filter to the 12 volt system.....so a dead or very weak battery will cause degradation to the 12 volt system up to an including inability to operate the slide-outs.......

Two issues which caused a problem.....We were understanding that the battery disconnect was to be in the off position when we were not using the camper. This to us meant when we were not using the RV (including driving down the road0 we would have the switch in the off position. The battery will not charge from the truck engine in this situation so we made a bad situation worse by not taking advantage of the engine charging. Two....when the converter was changed out, the service techs disconnected the cables from the battery terminals and did not tighten them on when completed. The theory is that the battery could not take any charge and was even possible shorting out causing the second issue.

Advice...always leave the battery disconnect in the ON position unless storing the RV...Two have the dealer do a load test on the batteries to ensure they are taking a charge and holding a charge...

Seems to all fit together....
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Old 07-31-2013, 11:45 AM   #7
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Yes, the 12 volt house battery switch needs to be on when using the RV. Does not matter either driving or camping. Your refrigerator needs 12 volts to run the electronics even if operating on propane while driving. Some smaller motor-homes and travel trailers have refrigerators that can operate totally on 12 volts. My large Dometic is 120 volts or propane.
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:07 PM   #8
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Have you replaced the house battery(ies) since they installed the replacement converter? My converter went bad to but only under high 12 volt useage and/or once it got hot. It would make a nice cracking/frying noise as the converter would loop through an on/off cycle over and over again.

Anyway all this stressed my house battery as it was drained flat several times before the RV shop could follow my directions to leave it plugged in with a few 12 volt lights on for more than 5 minutes. The converter wouldnt fail until it had to start putting some real amps back into the battery.
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Old 08-01-2013, 06:59 AM   #9
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Funfinder....That was the last piece of the puzzle.....On the advice of FR....I had the dealer conduct a load test to test that the battery took a charge and maintained the charge. We will be evaluating this over the next week and will change the batteries out if necessary. m Thanks for that tip
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