If you are going to leave it plugged in then leave the propane tanks on if you have a 2-way or 3-way refrigerator. Leave the refrigerator control panel on AUTO. If you loose power for any length of time your refrigerator will automatically switch to LP and switch back when the power is restored.
__________________
Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, Seasonal since 2000.
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
If you are going to leave it plugged in then leave the propane tanks on if you have a 2-way or 3-way refrigerator. Leave the refrigerator control panel on AUTO. If you loose power for any length of time your refrigerator will automatically switch to LP and switch back when the power is restored.
I second your point. I was addressing the point of unpluggng the unit and thus turning off the fridge and removing items from it.
Our insurance costs jumped for our TT. Do you carry liability on your trailer? We have $100,000 currently.
Did you let your agent know the TT is at a permanent site. Our insurance is cheaper than if we were pulling it around.
__________________
Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, Seasonal since 2000.
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
Did you let your agent know the TT is at a permanent site. Our insurance is cheaper than if we were pulling it around.
Yes we did. The question is adding liability insurance. I am waiting to hear back from the insurance company if my home owners and or car owner insurance would also include liability at the camper. Also waiting to hear from campground if they 'require' liability insurance.
My last post until I get to the site. I'll be sure to post some pics!
So if all goes as planned our trailer will move to its site today! And we will go to it on Friday. Located in South Jersey. Was supposed to be there when the trailer was setup, but when we switched to the current campground (changed our mind last minute), I was told they are busy (which I understand) and "they move it when they move it and set it up when they set it up", so I would not be able to be there when they did this. This has me a bit paranoid that I am going to mess something up. I have done a ton of reading, watching videos, and, as you have probably seen, asking questions. As far as I know, the trailer has been de-winterized. Before the trailer was moved from the dealer we purchased it from, I did the final walk through. I did not think to ask if had been de winterized, but I did call yesterday and was told it was. Not sure if this means the water system has been sanitized.
I am under the impression that the sewage hose will be set up and the fresh water hose will be added.
Working on my checklist when I get to the trailer
-I have purchased an EMS, so I will set that up when I get there. Need to get a lock for this.
-I have not yet purchased a water pressure regulator (Is there one on Amazon that you rec?).
Everything I read says no power on until the city water is hooked up and the water tank is filled. A mistake here can destroy the water heater's heating element. So I need to make sure that the tank for the hot water is full. I have learned (I think) that I could be hooked up to city water and if the water heater bypass is still in it winterized position, the water heater will not get any water.
So as far checking to see if the water tank is full, I read that I can open the "pop valve" to see if any water comes out. Is this accurate? Anything I need to be aware of before doing this?
After that, my plan is check to make sure that everything else is set up.
The new campground has a ton going on for the kids, but dealing with the service people has not been fun. I think they are overwhelmed and not super comfortable dealing with customers. I understand that, but it can be frustrating because unlike on here- where questions are encouraged- some of these guys seem less than open to questions. I am going to take nothing for granted and check as much as I can.
-I need to get the propane filled. Have no idea how much is in there.
-I also noticed during the walk through that the anode rod seemed really degraded.
-I am not sure what kind of shape the battery (or batteries..?) is in. A way to check this?
In my situation, what are some other things I should be checking/doing during this first visit?
1. Unless you specifically asked them to do it, i would be surprised if they hooked up your sewer and water hoses.
2. If it has been dewinterized, the hot water tank by-pass valves should be in the correct position to fill as soon as you hook up to city water.
Again, unless you specified the system be sanitized, it probably wasnt. You're hooked up to city water... so unless you're using the fresh water holding tank, there's really no need to sanitize the system yet (im assuming this is a new unit).
3. You can buy a water pressure regulator anywhere... walmart, amazon, etc. any brass one will work.
4. You can connect power to your camper before filling the hot water tank, you just cant flip the electric heating switch on the tank before its full.
5. Yes... just push the pressure relief valve on your hot water tank to verify there's water in it. I then run a faucet for a few seconds, just to double check.
6. There are many threads on the anode rod. Most look bad but are actually quite good. However, they're just a couple bucks on Amazon for a new one, so no real reason not to change it.
Good luck, and happy camping!
__________________
2015 Coachmen Apex 288BHS
2014 Toyota Tundra CrewMax 5.7L
The only thing I can say is we have had problems every winter with mice.
Only had a single mouse once when some piping insulation broke off and created a path of entry to our trailer. Mouse found the poison bait that I left out for him and died. Our neighbors have huge issues with mice each winter. Since we had our mouse, I've taken the fight outside and underneath the trailer. I set out a few of these and re-bait a few times a year. Use several of the single use traps inside. Also check the plumbing holes every so often. Spray some expanding foam wherever a point of entry is found.
We also leave our propane on when there is a chance of cold weather moving in because we have the furnace set at 45 degrees and leave the cabinet door open so the heat can get at the plumbing.
Electric stays on all season so the beer is cold when I arrive. Also, we keep plenty of food items in the fridge. One of the beauties of seasonal camping is not having to bring all the food along on every trip to the camper.
Even though you are hooked up to septic while seasonal, do not leave open the black tank valve. Discharge it when it gets 3/4 full and be sure to flush out as best you can. Then re-add the black tank 'magic' either liquid or the pod. If you could, get a clear elbow adapter on your hose so you can see if the liquid is clear. And don't fret about the gauges that don't always work for the black and gray tanks.
Hi all, I have posted a few times to the general forums. My family and I are about to have our first trailer (a Wildwood KQBTS (I think those are the letters), 2014 (1 previous owner) ) towed to the campground tomorrow, in South Jersey.
Asked for some tips in another post and one that immediately stood out was the EMS surge protector. No one at the dealer mentioned this to me, and I assume the previous owner did not install one. I am thinking I will get a plug in protector since I want to have it as soon as we plug in.
This got me thinking about a more general question (again, a newbie so I have lots of, I assume, basic questions.). When you leave your seasonal site for a few days or longer, do you unplug the power cord? I was thinking of this because I was wondering about the surge protector and that chances that someone would take it. Seems like we are at a nice place, but it did cross my mind.
Thanks for your help!
Joe
I personally installed the hardwire version for that exact reason. Having said that I have seen people make boxes that you can chain to the pedestal, or by a box that locks the EMS to the power cord and lock the peristalsis if the campground will let you. Really ever option is only a deterrent as someone could cut your power cord.
joetab, who did you buy from and what campground are you at? Just curios as I was a seasonal for many years down the shore. Have fun good luck and enjoy!!!!!
My last post until I get to the site. I'll be sure to post some pics!
So if all goes as planned our trailer will move to its site today! And we will go to it on Friday. Located in South Jersey. Was supposed to be there when the trailer was setup, but when we switched to the current campground (changed our mind last minute), I was told they are busy (which I understand) and "they move it when they move it and set it up when they set it up", so I would not be able to be there when they did this. This has me a bit paranoid that I am going to mess something up. I have done a ton of reading, watching videos, and, as you have probably seen, asking questions. As far as I know, the trailer has been de-winterized. Before the trailer was moved from the dealer we purchased it from, I did the final walk through. I did not think to ask if had been de winterized, but I did call yesterday and was told it was. Not sure if this means the water system has been sanitized.
I am under the impression that the sewage hose will be set up and the fresh water hose will be added.
Working on my checklist when I get to the trailer
-I have purchased an EMS, so I will set that up when I get there. Need to get a lock for this.
-I have not yet purchased a water pressure regulator (Is there one on Amazon that you rec?).
Everything I read says no power on until the city water is hooked up and the water tank is filled. A mistake here can destroy the water heater's heating element. So I need to make sure that the tank for the hot water is full. I have learned (I think) that I could be hooked up to city water and if the water heater bypass is still in it winterized position, the water heater will not get any water.
So as far checking to see if the water tank is full, I read that I can open the "pop valve" to see if any water comes out. Is this accurate? Anything I need to be aware of before doing this?
After that, my plan is check to make sure that everything else is set up.
The new campground has a ton going on for the kids, but dealing with the service people has not been fun. I think they are overwhelmed and not super comfortable dealing with customers. I understand that, but it can be frustrating because unlike on here- where questions are encouraged- some of these guys seem less than open to questions. I am going to take nothing for granted and check as much as I can.
-I need to get the propane filled. Have no idea how much is in there.
-I also noticed during the walk through that the anode rod seemed really degraded.
-I am not sure what kind of shape the battery (or batteries..?) is in. A way to check this?
In my situation, what are some other things I should be checking/doing during this first visit?
Thanks for all of your help!
If you are hooked to city (campground) water then you do not need to fill your fresh water tank.
__________________
Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, Seasonal since 2000.
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
joetab, who did you buy from and what campground are you at? Just curios as I was a seasonal for many years down the shore. Have fun good luck and enjoy!!!!!
We purchased from Hitch RV in Turnersville and have it on a site in Sea Isle, or right outside of Sea Isle.
If you are hooked to city (campground) water then you do not need to fill your fresh water tank.
ok, making sure I understand how everything works, when I hook up to the city line and turn the water on, does water instantly go to the hot water heater...?
Yes if the bypass on the water heater is open. If the dealer has de-winterized, then the valve should be open. You will have a connector for the city water hose and this will bypass the water holding tank. When you turn on the water you can check if the heater is filling or just pop off the heater once you don't hear the water running.
Location: New Lenox, Ill. (Home of Proud Americans)
Posts: 300
Quote:
Originally Posted by wiscoheel
Yes if the bypass on the water heater is open. If the dealer has de-winterized, then the valve should be open. You will have a connector for the city water hose and this will bypass the water holding tank. When you turn on the water you can check if the heater is filling or just pop off the heater once you don't hear the water running.
Closed
__________________
2015 GMC Denali 3500 4X4 Duramax
2019 Cedar Creek 36CK2 (sold 4/21)
ok, making sure I understand how everything works, when I hook up to the city line and turn the water on, does water instantly go to the hot water heater...?
Thanks,
Joe
Do know which water heater is in your trailer? If you do it will help us help you.
If the bypass valves are set to "bypass" (winter or closed) then the water will not fill the heater.
If the bypass are set to open (summer) then the water will go directly to the heater.
ALWAYS open the panel on the outdoors side of the heater and open the pressure relief valve to make sure the heater is full before turning on the heater.
These are the valve settings for my Suburban water heater.
__________________
Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, Seasonal since 2000.
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
We purchased from Hitch RV in Turnersville and have it on a site in Sea Isle, or right outside of Sea Isle.
I had bought from Driftwood and was in their campground for quite a few years, even met my wife while camping there. Had spent sometime at Pine Haven also and a lot of time on the beaches in Sea Isle & Avalon. Have fun and enjoy the summer at the beach
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