Electric stabilizing jacks - worth it?

[fx2]

I have the manual scissor jack and use a drill on them. As DS would say "easy peasy"


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[onetonford]

I have the electric stabilizers on my fiver and they are OK but I found they loosen up from walking around inside so you have to reset them once in a while but they are fine. I have since added some scissor Jacks by the axels and with them down with the stabilizers down their is a big difference so much better. no bounce and wiggle and I built some JT style stabilizers and it sits solid and stable like a House not a trailer....

[Stovebolt]

I agree, you put blocks under the stabilizers and you have less movement.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by davidjb

Not familiar with reinforced legs, do you mean with jt strongarms

I reinforced the flimsy legs by splitting a 2-1/2" sq. x 1/8" wall tubing and welding it to the outside of the leg.

I only have an alum covered plastic block under the pads and never use wood blocks. I have found the closer the legs are to 45°, the more stable the trailer is with no side to side movement. I do have homemade JT Strongarms on the rear jacks and the landing jacks, but very seldom tighten them. The addition of the jacks in front of the axle and the Bal X Chocks are sufficient.

[youroo]

I think I have seen those Jacks before! Youroo!!

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by youroo

I think I have seen those Jacks before! Youroo!!

Duh, I find that hard to comprehend. Thanks to Herk & Youroo, I have less than $75 cash in the axle jacks. BTW Gary, the axle jacks are quieter than the rear factory jacks.

[Timex]

I have the front and rear electric stabs and found I had a lot of "bounce" inside. Placed a pair of scissor jacks in front of the axles and the bounce is almost eliminated. If I will be in a site for more than 4 days I'll use a ratchet strap across the back stabs. Makes the TT solid.

But the OP's question would be is it worth the money for the electric stabs?

At first, I thought wow, fancy smancy! But the scissor jack goes up and down in :04 as opposed to the electric stabs at 30-40 seconds and the noise they make in a quiet campground. If I had to do over, I'd go with the scissor jacks.

When I was a kid, my daddy said I didn't need a 10 speed bike, just something else to break.

My .02.

[stillontheroad]

When it comes down to it the dealer doesnt matter. Go with the best deal. As far as electric jacks are concerned... you will see a warning in your manual that says "do not extend your jacks more than a few seconds once they touch the ground. That is because the motors cannot handle it. My motor got water in it and sized up (poor seal) so I took it off, threw it away and use the hand crank. That way I can trighten the rear jack more for stability. I say forget the rear power jack and save your money.

[TexasBob]

I have electric stabilizers, they were standard equipment on my trailer. They have a very low gear and are a little slow but I have to say I like them. Then again I'm getting older. As far as trailer shake and stability, there a lot of factors. My trailer's stability varies with campsite level etc. I'm not sensitive enough to the shake to make me want to spend a lot of time and money trying to get a 30' trailer that I just towed 400 miles and then expect it to be the Rock of Gibraltar

[BradB]

Spent a month in our new Vibe 268RKS which came with dual electric stabilizers, slow and loud to deploy and way too much movement on blocks or not. Our previous Fleetwood Wilderness had four point manual scissors which worked great and deployed faster.

[Stovebolt]

Originally Posted by BradB

Spent a month in our new Vibe 268RKS which came with dual electric stabilizers, slow and loud to deploy and way too much movement on blocks or not. Our previous Fleetwood Wilderness had four point manual scissors which worked great and deployed faster.

My electric stabilizers are quiet. Yeah they aren't as fast as a drill motor on manual ones but I don't have to squat down to do anything just push a button. I've heard people claim that the drill motor is not as loud but I have watched people with their drill motors and they make a lot more noise than my electric stabilizers. The motor should be quiet not noisy and if you don't keep silicon spray on your stabilizers they will make noise after going through rain for an extended period of time.

[SilhouettePenny]

DaisyCrockett......PM sent.

[the.wilsons]

Started out with manual then went to electric and now have level up. They each have there good points and bad points. Manuals are reliable and you have good control over them. Electric are easy and no crank to keep up with. Auto level is the easiest and most stable but the most unreliable and more parts to break.

[tenttotrailer]

My 2 cents but go with the local dealer if well represented. With the jacks, a pricy option unless you have some sort of injury that restricts getting down to do this chore manually. I have a son that still comes with us and those days maybe numbered but he makes a great jack, wheel chock etc guy. Says he wants to get a TT some day so might as well learn how it is done! With your statement of not wanting to repair...that is true for a new purchase...but keep in mind there is always something that needs to be cleaned, adjusted or repaired especially if looking for trade in value down the road. Welcome from Ontario.

Kevin

[Crockett]

i can assure you the new lippert electrics wont bend as long as they dont make contact with the ground...

[chuckw5kav]

I would stick to the manual jacks, I'm 69 years old in April
and can still setup our 5th wheel in a few minutes with my
drill which has very little noise I might say.

One other thing you might look at between CW and the other
dealer is who give's the best service. I have read some
night mare stories about some of the Camping Worlds service
in different locations. Also there are plenty of bad stories
about other dealers as well, so even if you are going to save
lots of money I would check out the reputation of either
place before buying.

You might be saving big $$$$$ when buying, but if you have
warranty work or something brakes during your warranty
and it takes 3 months to fix sitting at a shop, have you
saved anything.

Sorry to go off topic somewhat but I think it needed to be
said

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by Crockett

i can assure you the new lippert electrics wont bend as long as they dont make contact with the ground...

I like that, it pretty good. As far as the one post by STOVEBOLT I would not use silicone it attracts dirt use a dry lube only. One thing to remember is that they are subject to road grime being located under the unit.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Crockett

i can assure you the new lippert electrics wont bend as long as they dont make contact with the ground...

They are easy to reinforce so you can actually use them without fear of bending them.